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Old 11-17-2019, 11:48 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
I apologize I don't quite follow. Are you saying the tops of the rear shocks may be too long? Like th bolts?
I was just trying to find your metal clunk ...:] It seems another user may have a solution for you.

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Old 11-18-2019, 01:02 AM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deves2 View Post
the 906 coils are about an inch to SHORT and when you flex they will come loose at the top of the spring area. I had the same problem....took me awhile to figure it out. Take the plastic cone that is in the top of the spring and fasten it to the frame. You can either screw it around the flange at the top to the frame or what I did was put a bolt up threw the plastic cone and slide a flat piece of bar stock with a hole in the center above the frame and bolt the cone to the frame. This way when the 906 drops down when flexing it stays in alignment due to the cone not being able to move and the is NO popping of metal. the alternate fix is get a ome891 or equivalent length spring. trust me on this....
Okay, so I feel better hearing this from someone who has 906's.
Do you have any photos of your fix? Trying to get an idea of what you're talking about. Wish I had a 3d model or something...haha

Pm me if you have any photos, or more advise.. thanks man
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Old 11-18-2019, 11:26 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
My 97 has that metal on it. My 98 does not. I thought possible only the manuals has those on it. However it seems that it was in the autos too. I take a picture of that metal tommorrow. So folks will know what you are talking about.

It looks to me like it's a travel limiter. I have to check more into that.

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Here is that metal chuck on the lower rear control arm.

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Old 11-18-2019, 12:41 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
Here is that metal chuck on the lower rear control arm.

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Wow I've never seen that. I don't believe that I have that anymore as I am running rokman lower arms
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Old 11-18-2019, 12:45 PM #20
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jross20 PM sent if you have more questions just yell!
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Old 11-18-2019, 03:28 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
Some people have suggested that maybe the shocks are too long for the springs, but at the same time some other people said that was nonsense... For reference, I have tundra 5100s with ome 906's.
What's the part number for your Tundra rear 5100s? Just to verify the compressed & extended lengths are appropriate for the 906's. It's been a while but if I remember correctly, for the 906, the compressed & extended shock length should be around 13.8" & 22.4". If the shocks are longer then that I think the springs can potentially get unseated.
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Old 11-18-2019, 03:50 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
Wow I've never seen that. I don't believe that I have that anymore as I am running rokman lower arms
Yes some of the earlier had these. Sorry I just figured folks wanted to know what this piece of metal was on some of the earlier 3rd Gen runners.

Great to see you are getting some solutions to your issues.

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Old 11-19-2019, 01:52 AM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourfive View Post
What's the part number for your Tundra rear 5100s? Just to verify the compressed & extended lengths are appropriate for the 906's. It's been a while but if I remember correctly, for the 906, the compressed & extended shock length should be around 13.8" & 22.4". If the shocks are longer then that I think the springs can potentially get unseated.
Honestly, I could have sworn they were tundra 5100s but wheelers site just says 4R 5100s 1.5-3" lift. Sku BIL-4R5100-X2
Maybe I messed up?

Specs:
Collapsed Length (IN): 13.84
Extended Length (IN): 22.4

But the 22.4 matches what you said..

Ahh

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Old 11-19-2019, 09:50 AM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
Honestly, I could have sworn they were tundra 5100s but wheelers site just says 4R 5100s 1.5-3" lift. Sku BIL-4R5100-X2
Maybe I messed up?

Specs:
Collapsed Length (IN): 13.84
Extended Length (IN): 22.4

But the 22.4 matches what you said..

Ahh

Those are Tundra shocks that have had the lower bushing already switched for 4Runner use.
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Old 11-19-2019, 10:37 AM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
Honestly, I could have sworn they were tundra 5100s but wheelers site just says 4R 5100s 1.5-3" lift. Sku BIL-4R5100-X2
Maybe I messed up?

Specs:
Collapsed Length (IN): 13.84
Extended Length (IN): 22.4

But the 22.4 matches what you said..
If the rear clunk is confirmed to be coming from the 906 getting unseated, I'm wondering if your current bilsteins are still too long even though it is listed as being compatible with 1.5-3" rear lift & maybe the bilstein BIL-24-249966 for 0-2" rear lift might be a better fit? Have you tried lifting the rear frame on jack stands and letting the axle droop all the way to see if there's any play in the coils? Could also jack one side of the axle to see how secure the coil is on the opposite side.
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Old 11-19-2019, 02:43 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
Those are Tundra shocks that have had the lower bushing already switched for 4Runner use.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fourfive View Post
If the rear clunk is confirmed to be coming from the 906 getting unseated, I'm wondering if your current bilsteins are still too long even though it is listed as being compatible with 1.5-3" rear lift & maybe the bilstein BIL-24-249966 for 0-2" rear lift might be a better fit? Have you tried lifting the rear frame on jack stands and letting the axle droop all the way to see if there's any play in the coils? Could also jack one side of the axle to see how secure the coil is on the opposite side.
Oh that is a good idea. I will need to get a taller jack to do that. Can I lift her by the tow hitch?
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Old 11-19-2019, 10:36 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
Oh that is a good idea. I will need to get a taller jack to do that. Can I lift her by the tow hitch?
Would probably be best to lift from the rear diff then set your jack stands under the frame. You can lift from the tow hitch but if you meant lifting from there to let your axle droop without jack stands, I wouldn't do that. Relying on a jack alone without jack stands could turn into a very bad day.
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Old 11-20-2019, 08:55 AM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourfive View Post
Would probably be best to lift from the rear diff then set your jack stands under the frame. You can lift from the tow hitch but if you meant lifting from there to let your axle droop without jack stands, I wouldn't do that. Relying on a jack alone without jack stands could turn into a very bad day.
Oh no I don't rely purely on a jack, haha. But that's a good idea to lift from the diff. (That rhymes)

My new mega jack stands come in today so I should be all set!
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Old 11-21-2019, 06:45 PM #29
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When I lift my runners I put jack stands either under the frame or under the rear diff axle housing. I use 6 Ton jack stands so I get more height. Granted these are the ones with the repaired frames. On a bad frame I use the front and rear diffs until I get those sections rebuilt for extra strength.

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Old 11-21-2019, 07:24 PM #30
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