Got a few estimates today and thought I would share the info.
2000 3.4 4WD
The estimates ranged from $689 to $998.
$60 in parts + cost of an oil change + 8 hours labor.
Also had one shop quote me a timing belt kit replacement. $1100. I was told this one first, so the Rear main repair seemed cheap at only $700....
Why the oil change? Do they plan on doing it while the engine is running?
/s Sorry for the snark. I know shops charge a lot for their services because they have a high overhead; more so in some neighborhoods than others. Still; those are some high numbers for the area I live in. Obviously not there though.
Have you considered doing the job yourself? We have a 3-Part Video series that will help you get the trans out of your way so you can get the flex plate off and the rear main seal swapped out.
Here's Part 1 to the Trans Replacement Series:
To learn how to get the rear main seal out, you could consult the beginning of the video below:
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
Got a few estimates today and thought I would share the info.
2000 3.4 4WD
The estimates ranged from $689 to $998.
$60 in parts + cost of an oil change + 8 hours labor.
Also had one shop quote me a timing belt kit replacement. $1100. I was told this one first, so the Rear main repair seemed cheap at only $700....
How about $5?
Brake fluid swells rubber (neoprene).
Pour a SMALL can of brake fluid (dot 3) into your engine. Drive it a couple days, then change the oil. Given that the engine has a modern style seal, it's quite likely this will rejuvenate the seals (all of them, including valve seals) and fix the problem.
I've done this many times in my life. Never caused a problem and almost always worked. Do it. Don't do it. Just trying to help.
Now people will go nuts telling you this will ruin your engine, etc. etc. etc. It will not. But it will clean your engine, like few other things can.
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2001 Sr5 V6 2WD
"...The closer you get, to the meaning, the sooner you know, that you're DREAMING..." (Black Sabbath - HEAVEN AND HELL)
Pour a SMALL can of brake fluid (dot 3) into your engine. Drive it a couple days, then change the oil. Given that the engine has a modern style seal, it's quite likely this will rejuvenate the seals (all of them, including valve seals) and fix the problem.
I've done this many times in my life. Never caused a problem and almost always worked. Do it. Don't do it. Just trying to help.
Now people will go nuts telling you this will ruin your engine, etc. etc. etc. It will not. But it will clean your engine, like few other things can.
I may try it. The issue I see is with the dried toyota seals. They are more like bakelite at this point, and I'm not confident that they will absorb anything.
As far as the quotes being high, I guess it's the area. All three are small shops known for being reasonable.
Brake fluid swells rubber (neoprene).
Now people will go nuts telling you this will ruin your engine, etc. etc. etc. It will not. But it will clean your engine, like few other things can.
Old time mechanics used tranny fluid to reduce/eliminate a smoking engine, it can't hurt and just might help. They poured in a quart trans fluid to 5 quarts motor oil.
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2001 Limited 4WD - 346+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
I don't know how good this main seal stop leak is but Bar's a well known brand. They do constant testing and improvements to keep up with the latest technology.
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,156
Real Name: 3 Bears
I think some of the solutions listed above are only gonna buy time and not fix a thing for long term.
so put in juice, swell seal so it does not leak, pressure wash so all looks good, then sell
or put in juice to buy time, then get tools and parts , then fix it right
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2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
2001 SR-5... bought 11/20..sold 6/21....
2000 SR-5 moded, lifted, e locker, other cool stuff, totaled 10/20
just to throw some numbers your way... i got a marlincrawler clutch kit for $300 when they had a sale. from amazon i got a engine rebuild kit for $65 which came with a rear main seal, and a set of bando belts for $29. my mechanic and i dropped the transmission and did the clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and rear main seal since it's *right there*, for $650. i separately got new belts, which we also changed out toward that labor total.
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'99 'Highlander' 4R SR5 5VZ-FE | 5-spd | LED lighting | TBU | 265-75R17 Duratrac stuffed after some pinch-weld convincing
I have seen the ATP 205 used and it works, but takes at least 500 up to 2000 miles to start working. But is it a cheaper alternative than replacing the rear seal? Yep.
I feel your pain...
Just got the same bad news today (Rear Main Seal Leak).
Even if i could afford it right now, not sure i want to spend more money on Big Bertha. She has 229K miles on the clock and who knows what else could go wrong.
I was looking at Lucas Stop Leak but i have seen a few people suggest the ATP AT 205 so i think i'm going to try the AT 205 solution for now and see what happens...
Good Luck!
Last edited by DAWG NATION; 11-13-2019 at 01:43 PM.
Another way you could possibly save is to ask a mechanic your comfortable with if is able to the job off the books. Do this only with shops/mechanics who has done work for your in the past cause no receipt is part of it.
Another way is to ask a auto trade school. Some teachers would be happy to throw the rear main seal job at the students.
OP, how bad is the oil leak anyway? If it's not that bad and you don't mind the oily mess, doing nothing is an option as well. Adding oil to your engine is pretty easy.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"