I have used Mobil 1 atf with very good results in Fords and GM applications with exceptional results, but not in one Yota. If that is what you are using, then try a couple of new quarts and see how it performs. The real possible problem is the noise. Now you just have to find its origin.

Metabo is good stuff. I am glad I you are getting good use out of it.

Which Metabo do you have? I've been wanting an impact wrench and I already have a bunch of the older cordless Hitachi tools with the slide batteries (which have been great and good value). The metabos are backward compatible with my batteries from what I understand.

BTW Menards own brand "Masterforce" appear to be rebranded Hitachi/Metabo for a really good price (with that 11% rebate they do). Not sure how they may have been cheapened though or if the batteries are compatible but they look the same.

I frickin love Menards it has saved my ass so many times on DIY stuff. Their own brand tool chests are really good value too when you wait for a sale. And the only place I can buy ketchup flavor chips.

I have the Metabo 18v brushless impact. It has the perfect size and power to remove crank bolts which is why I initially bought it. It's listed at 295 ft/lbs but seems to put out every bit of it. My 1100 ft/lb ingersoll rand 20v impact never gets used anymore.

Edit: Amazon link for metabo impact


I'm pretty sure metabo HPT is just the new name for hitachi & don't think there's any compatibility between metabo HPT & metabo.

Would a failing torque converter eventually throw an engine code?
Are there solenoids that control the torque converter that can start to fail & produce bad torque converter symptoms?

Answers in bold

Is that one of the 3 solenoids that's accessed with the transmission pan removed?

Edit: Part numbers for 3 transmission solenoids
35250-30050
35250-30070
35250-50030

I'm not sure how many there are, but yes it's one of the solenoids on the valve body.

Yes I was getting confused with Metabo HPT multivolt thing, you have the legit Metabo. 295 ft/lbs is good enough for everything then, like axle nuts?

Axle nuts too. It has to hammer on it a little longer than my 1100 ft/lb impact but will still zip it off. Haven't encountered a fastener it hasn't been able to remove yet. It has a good balance of small size, power & very ergonomic feel in your hand. I'm pretty confident that anyone that buys it will not be disappointed.

Removed the access cover & rotated the crank bolt clockwise to inspect the flexplate. Also used a borescope. I couldn't see any cracks & the teeth looked intact. I took it for a drive to get the atf to 170*F. Fluid looked clean & within normal range on the dip stick (I've drained & filled my atf every other oil change for as long as I've owned it). I still heard the rattling/ticking sound during my drive. Didn't experience any slipping this time but acceleration seemed a little sluggish.

Still no codes or pending codes which I checked periodically on my scangauge during my test drive. Is there anymore troubleshooting I can do to confirm that it's my flexplate & torque converter? If not my next step is most likely going to be draining the atf and dropping the pan to prepare for replacing the torque converter & flexplate. Will start getting a parts list together.

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There is also the stall test, to see if the 4Runner dies or not. It is in the FSM; mine is in a box somewhere in storage at the moment since the move. However mine passed the test.

One other thing that I noticed when my TC was going out was that the ATF heated up quickly once up past 150f. Once I got it replaced the temps stayed a good 10 to 20 degrees cooler than before, given that ever other variable was close to constant.

But drop the pan first, before putting the cart before the horse.

Did you have any codes when your torque converter was going out? My ATF temps seem to be behaving normally. I got the temps to a little over 170*F during my drive but didn't notice rapid increases. I have a hard copy of the FSM & will look up the stall test. Is the stall test for the torque converter?

The one consistent symptom I had when I took it for a drive the other day was a ticking/rattling sound. It was there at initial start up & would hear it at times throughout my drive. Was also happening as I was pulling into my garage at operating temps. It seemed to be more noticeable at stops and slower speeds. The sound seems to be coming from the transmission area but I've been fooled by sounds before.

Are there other things I should be looking into to avoid misdiagnosing this? Exhaust manifold leak, etc.?

Flex Plate usually cracks at crank bolt holes..not going to see it unless its extreme. Stop the guessing / backyard diagnosing.. you can rent ,borrow a gauge to test??


HYDRAULIC TEST
Measure the line pressure.

NOTE:
- Do the test at normal operation fluid temperature 50 - 80 °C (122-176 °F).
- The line pressure test should always be carried out in pairs. One technician should observe the conditions of wheels or wheel stoppers outside the vehicle while the other is doing the test.
- Be careful to prevent SST's hose from interfering with the exhaust pipe.

1. Warm up the ATF.
2. Remove the test plug on the transmission case front left side and connect SST.
SST 09992 - 00095, 09992 - 00151, 09992 - 00271
3. Fully apply the parking brake and chock the 4 wheels.
4. Start the engine and check idling speed.
5. Keep your left foot pressing firmly on the brake pedal and shift into D position.
6. Measure the line pressure when the engine is idling.
7. Depress the accelerator pedal all the way down. Quickly read the highest line pressure when engine speed reaches stall speed.
8. In the same manner, do the test in R position.

Where is Trans cable adjustment?

I don't have any experience with doing diagnostic work with transmissions which is why I've been googling, youtubing & looking through the FSM. I prefer to not guess which is why I started this thread to get some direction. I'm aware from what I've read that looking at the flexplate through the inspection cover will often times not show an issue but since this is my first time encountering something like this it was a logical starting point with my lack of knowledge on the subject. Appreciate the steps listed for doing a hydraulic test. That is something I'm not familiar with. Will look up what tools/equipment I'll need & see if I can find the specific steps in the FSM.