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Old 11-25-2019, 07:36 PM #16
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There's dye you can put in your oil that glows under a black light. You drop it in your oil, drive it around and let it leaks for a few days/few weeks or however long it takes. Then you get a black light and presto, there's your leak. No guesswork.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-50...070SGXRX7KM38D
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Old 11-25-2019, 07:39 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon View Post
Pondering this a bit further though - the oil pan is the one "seal" that's actually not a seal, it's FIPG. Would that also be susceptible to the "synthetic oil is thinner" issue, since it should not dry/rot out like rubber seals?
That's a very good question. I would think yes in time. Synthetic oil is great and far superior to conventional. The FIPG would break down in time just as our seals do.


For example:


However, I put moble 1 in a 1983 toyota 4x4 in the mid 90s and the oil just ran out past the seals. I put normal oil back in and the oil stayed in the seals.

This is why I asked what type of oil. As you can try to bump the weight of the oil from 5w-30 to 10w-30 synthetic to see if the leak slows or stops.

If all it takes is running 10w -30 synthetic instead of 5w -30 synthetic and your pan stops leaking for a while. I try it as it's not going to hurt your engine any. Might save you from messing with it for a while.

That's a lot better then putting locus heavy duty oil stabilizer in your oil. As that thickens the oil too and stops most leaks. Just dont try to start your engine at 0 degrees F.

That starter will moan and your engine will be starved for oil for a few seconds. Will it do damage. Hard to say because it like to stick to engine components so dry start dosent happen. Folks go back in forth on that one and pages of it on oil forums.


I am just trying to help here.







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Old 11-25-2019, 09:01 PM #18
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Leon, is there any way you can get a pic under the balancer?

I have seen Rtv leak around pan bolts before over time, due to the torque displaced around it, and ultimately breaking it.

Honestly, I wouldn’t sweat it unless it got worse.
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Old 11-25-2019, 09:17 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon View Post
I'm leaning to it being the oil pan, which I have no plans to address at the moment (I read that it's a toss up between dropping the front diff or pulling the motor, none of which appeal to me at the moment after spending a quality weekend under the truck refreshing the front end):
I don't know where you read it would be a toss up between pulling the motor or removing the front diff, but that person had to be smoking some quality shit. No way in hell is this even a close comparison. @JZiggy will tell you the same. Pulling the front differential isn't that hard if you release the driver side motor mount, jack up the engine a bit and then also release the metal vacuum and breather lines on top of the diff. It literally falls out if you do those things.

If Jordan said, "Hey Timmy, come on over to help me pull my engine so I can reseal my oil pan", I'd reply, what the F*@k are you smoking? I would never pull an engine on one of these rigs to do an oil pan gasket.
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Old 11-25-2019, 09:34 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
There's dye you can put in your oil that glows under a black light. You drop it in your oil, drive it around and let it leaks for a few days/few weeks or however long it takes. Then you get a black light and presto, there's your leak. No guesswork.
Good tip, thank you - I've used a similar product before to find a stubborn coolant leak, so I'm a believer. I ordered the dye, just because I am dying to know where the leak is coming from, even if I don't do anything about it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
That's a very good question. I would think yes in time. Synthetic oil is great and far superior to conventional. The FIPG would break down in time just as our seals do.
...

I am just trying to help here.
I appreciate the help!


Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar View Post
Leon, is there any way you can get a pic under the balancer?

I have seen Rtv leak around pan bolts before over time, due to the torque displaced around it, and ultimately breaking it.

Honestly, I wouldn’t sweat it unless it got worse.
I'll have a peek there, not sure how much I can see without pulling stuff off

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim View Post
I don't know where you read it would be a toss up between pulling the motor or removing the front diff, but that person had to be smoking some quality shit. No way in hell is this even a close comparison. @JZiggy will tell you the same. Pulling the front differential isn't that hard if you release the driver side motor mount, jack up the engine a bit and then also release the metal vacuum and breather lines on top of the diff. It literally falls out if you do those things.

If Jordan said, "Hey Timmy, come on over to help me pull my engine so I can reseal my oil pan", I'd reply, what the F*@k are you smoking? I would never pull an engine on one of these rigs to do an oil pan gasket.
I know, I would expect the same - I'm just going by this thread, second post - Easiest way to remove oil pan?.

Don't get me wrong, I am not pulling the motor, I just thought the discussion on that thread was interesting.
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Old 11-25-2019, 09:41 PM #21
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If Jordan said, "Hey Timmy, come on over to help me pull my engine so I can reseal my oil pan", I'd reply, what the F*@k are you smoking?
“Let Timmy Smoke!!”
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Old 11-25-2019, 10:05 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon View Post
I know, I would expect the same - I'm just going by this thread, second post - Easiest way to remove oil pan?.

Don't get me wrong, I am not pulling the motor, I just thought the discussion on that thread was interesting.
It seems the guy that made that post is one of those classic under-estimators of what it actually takes to do something. I'd like to watch him pull the motor in two hours. He also said he could replace the timing belt in minutes with the motor out. Even if he was just talking about the belt and not also replacing the idler pulleys, water pump, camshaft seals, crankshaft seal, no way he could do this in minutes.

I really dislike when people make claims like this because it gives the reader a false illusion of what a job will actually take. I always try to give people an accurate estimate of what it takes to do a job. I'm not a quick mechanic because I'm careful and try my damndest not to make mistakes and I figure a lot of people are the same when they're wrenching on their rig or somebody else's.
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Old 11-25-2019, 10:16 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim View Post
It seems the guy that made that post is one of those classic under-estimators of what it actually takes to do something. I'd like to watch him pull the motor in two hours. He also said he could replace the timing belt in minutes with the motor out. Even if he was just talking about the belt and not also replacing the idler pulleys, water pump, camshaft seals, crankshaft seal, no way he could do this in minutes.

I really dislike when people make claims like this because it gives the reader a false illusion of what a job will actually take. I always try to give people an accurate estimate of what it takes to do a job. I'm not a quick mechanic because I'm careful and try my damndest not to make mistakes and I figure a lot of people are the same when they're wrenching on their rig or somebody else's.
You know, I have no doubt some folks can do it in 2 hours. What I do doubt is how they would go about doing it - like you, I am about doing it right rather than doing it fast. Sort of like my alignment saga, haha.
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Old 11-25-2019, 10:21 PM #24
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Or try and move the main loom around to see if you can see any serious wetness.

Honestly though, I wouldn’t sweat it but acknowledge its presence going forward unless it starts leaving spots on your driveway.

Mobil 1 HM oils are excellent. Great additive packs.
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Old 11-25-2019, 10:41 PM #25
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Quote:
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Or try and move the main loom around to see if you can see any serious wetness.

Honestly though, I wouldn’t sweat it but acknowledge its presence going forward unless it starts leaving spots on your driveway.

Mobil 1 HM oils are excellent. Great additive packs.
Mobile 1 always was excellent. I just believe if we wish to use it. We be replacing more seals and sealant.


It's truly a shame the front end is tucked in so close to the oil pans. However, it is what it is. I have seen oil pan leaks in Toyota engines before. Most of the time though the leak is from somewhere else. But on occasion, it is the pan seal.

The OP could see his pan bolts are torqued properly. However, being its sealant and not an actual gasket on it. I doubt think it will do a thing for him.

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Old 11-26-2019, 01:28 AM #26
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Yeah, I was going to check the bolt torque just to rule that out - though with FIPG, that's not likely to be the issue. But worth a look!
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Old 11-26-2019, 05:26 AM #27
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Quote:
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Yeah, I was going to check the bolt torque just to rule that out - though with FIPG, that's not likely to be the issue. But worth a look!
In my opinion a leaky oil pan is probably just as common as a leaky valve cover. Albeit maybe they used different compositions of FPIG from the factory for both areas, but I think the oil pan leaking would be a pretty common thing with the age of our runners.

In my opinion sealant has a shelf life, for both sitting in a container and actually being used for what it's designed for... It doesn't have infinite life.

The rear main is another option for oil to leak from but the rear main seal retainer is also sealed with FPIG so you have that as a possible oil leak.

Just go buy some flex seal and spray that crap over every crevice you see!!!! Mystery Oil Leak Lol jk

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Old 11-26-2019, 12:26 PM #28
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Well the valve covers have honest-to-goodness gaskets, not FIPG (other than in corners).

I'm sure FIPG degrades as well; my point was that I doubt that torquing the bolts would help with a leak in an FIPG seal, but it's worth a shot.

My first line of attack is to degrease and add the dye, then watch for leaks. Fun!
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Old 11-26-2019, 12:44 PM #29
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Quote:
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Well the valve covers have honest-to-goodness gaskets, not FIPG (other than in corners).



I'm sure FIPG degrades as well; my point was that I doubt that torquing the bolts would help with a leak in an FIPG seal, but it's worth a shot.



My first line of attack is to degrease and add the dye, then watch for leaks. Fun!
Good plan.

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Old 11-26-2019, 02:07 PM #30
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You know, I have no doubt some folks can do it in 2 hours. What I do doubt is how they would go about doing it - like you, I am about doing it right rather than doing it fast. Sort of like my alignment saga, haha.
I've seen an engine that was pulled that fast. Was done with a torch and very large cutters so yeah, it was an absolute mess.
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