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Old 11-26-2019, 02:39 PM #31
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Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon View Post
I doubt that torquing the bolts would help with a leak in an FIPG seal, but it's worth a shot.
Yeah, but it really can't hurt to check the torque on the oil pan bolts. I'm seeing 52 in/lb in a criss-cross pattern.
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Old 11-26-2019, 03:51 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon View Post
You know, I have no doubt some folks can do it in 2 hours. What I do doubt is how they would go about doing it - like you, I am about doing it right rather than doing it fast. Sort of like my alignment saga, haha.
I don't think that you could get a 4Runner engine out in 2 hours, at least not by yourself. With a couple guys who know exactly what they are doing, maybe... But that goes out the window if there is even 1 problem (frozen bolts, etc.).

I was working with 3 other guys (two professional mechanics, two 'normal' guys) and we had a Subaru engine out and back in (fixed clutch) in about 2 hours. Subarus are a bit easier though...

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Old 11-26-2019, 04:46 PM #33
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this is about an oil leak not how much time it would take to remove an engine.

although, I did it in 4, with another guy who i had to give instructions on what to do, and tools in a bucket. I had to hacksaw shit off lol but thats on a 4x2, with front diff in the way removing engine would take longer. and the last bell housing bolt was in a bind so much it destroyed my biggest half inch drive.

If I really tried, and all things went smooth I say a solid 2-3 hours is reasonable.

2 hours if you got anything you need and you know exactly what to do with pneumatic. There is nothing to taking these out.

Its so simple. lol
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Old 11-26-2019, 04:58 PM #34
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No worries, I'm not planning on pulling the motor over a small seepage . It's just this topic came up on the other thread where the poster had to pull the pan, and one respondent said that he can pull a motor faster than drop the pan on a 4wd truck. Neither seems like fun, so I'll to diagnose some more, but let sleeping dogs lie if I can't easily fix it.
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:32 PM #35
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Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon View Post
Thanks for the feedback guys. It's definitely not a bad leak, more of a "controlled seepage" as Jaguar helpfully dispositioned their 70's XJ6's, but I digress.

I dug a little further; the power steering pump and reservoir, are totally dry, so it's definitely an oil leak. The block is dry higher up, so it's not valve covers. I'm a bit puzzled by oil above the gasket line, but I guess it can creep up. Here's another picture; it's right behind the AC

I'm leaning to it being the oil pan, which I have no plans to address at the moment (I read that it's a toss up between dropping the front diff or pulling the motor, none of which appeal to me at the moment after spending a quality weekend under the truck refreshing the front end):

I doubt it's the crank seal, as I replaced it within the past two years when I did the timing belt. Of course I could have screwed it up, but it seems to not be coming from that area.
Did you use dealer parts or an ebay kit or aftermarket?
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:34 PM #36
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Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
I am just curious. What type of oil are you using with these engines seeping and getting worse?

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Been using Mobil1 5w30 for the last 6 or 7 years with everything bone dry. Only noticed this seepage a few months ago.
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Old 11-26-2019, 09:04 PM #37
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Originally Posted by repo View Post
Did you use dealer parts or an ebay kit or aftermarket?
It was OEM. I just inspected the underside of the crankshaft area - it appears dry. I don't think that's where it's seeping from, but dye will tell (hopefully).
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Old 12-17-2019, 11:32 AM #38
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I have an interim update - put on about 500 miles with the UV dye, and so far no sign of it in the seepage. So either it hasn't worked its way out yet, or it's not motor oil.

I'll clean all the residue off, and start monitoring again.
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Old 12-17-2019, 12:31 PM #39
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Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon View Post
I have an interim update - put on about 500 miles with the UV dye, and so far no sign of it in the seepage. So either it hasn't worked its way out yet, or it's not motor oil.



I'll clean all the residue off, and start monitoring again.
If mine were that clean I wouldn't know what to do. But in the rust belt so it keeps components from rusting .

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Old 03-22-2022, 05:36 PM #40
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did you ever find the leak? wondering how well the dye worked too.
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Old 03-23-2022, 11:48 PM #41
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did you ever find the leak? wondering how well the dye worked too.
I can vouch for the dye. My only suggestion would be to make sure you're able to keep checking if it doesn't show up right away. It didn't show up for me after the first couple drives. Then it rained for a week and by the time I got back under to check again, the dye was everywhere making it impossible to pinpoint the source. I spent hours wiping everything clean by hand and got very familiar with where my hands and arms would and would not fit (was taking mental notes with oil cooler and starter in mind).
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Old 04-04-2022, 08:28 PM #42
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thanks for the input.

just cleaned up everything i could reach and added the dye today. going to check to see if i can determine where the leak is. i'm pretty stumped. half moon looks clean as could be. the cam shaft seal was replaced when i did my timing belts. not seeing any source for the leak yet.
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Old 04-05-2022, 06:30 PM #43
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Still haven't found the cause, so it's still on my to-do list. I am planning to replace the oil cooler lines and seals soon, so I'll have a close look in that area when I do the work.
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