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Old 11-26-2019, 02:39 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon View Post
I doubt that torquing the bolts would help with a leak in an FIPG seal, but it's worth a shot.
Yeah, but it really can't hurt to check the torque on the oil pan bolts. I'm seeing 52 in/lb in a criss-cross pattern.
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Old 11-26-2019, 03:51 PM #32
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Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon View Post
You know, I have no doubt some folks can do it in 2 hours. What I do doubt is how they would go about doing it - like you, I am about doing it right rather than doing it fast. Sort of like my alignment saga, haha.
I don't think that you could get a 4Runner engine out in 2 hours, at least not by yourself. With a couple guys who know exactly what they are doing, maybe... But that goes out the window if there is even 1 problem (frozen bolts, etc.).

I was working with 3 other guys (two professional mechanics, two 'normal' guys) and we had a Subaru engine out and back in (fixed clutch) in about 2 hours. Subarus are a bit easier though...

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Old 11-26-2019, 04:46 PM #33
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this is about an oil leak not how much time it would take to remove an engine.

although, I did it in 4, with another guy who i had to give instructions on what to do, and tools in a bucket. I had to hacksaw shit off lol but thats on a 4x2, with front diff in the way removing engine would take longer. and the last bell housing bolt was in a bind so much it destroyed my biggest half inch drive.

If I really tried, and all things went smooth I say a solid 2-3 hours is reasonable.

2 hours if you got anything you need and you know exactly what to do with pneumatic. There is nothing to taking these out.

Its so simple. lol
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Old 11-26-2019, 04:58 PM #34
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No worries, I'm not planning on pulling the motor over a small seepage . It's just this topic came up on the other thread where the poster had to pull the pan, and one respondent said that he can pull a motor faster than drop the pan on a 4wd truck. Neither seems like fun, so I'll to diagnose some more, but let sleeping dogs lie if I can't easily fix it.
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:32 PM #35
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Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon View Post
Thanks for the feedback guys. It's definitely not a bad leak, more of a "controlled seepage" as Jaguar helpfully dispositioned their 70's XJ6's, but I digress.

I dug a little further; the power steering pump and reservoir, are totally dry, so it's definitely an oil leak. The block is dry higher up, so it's not valve covers. I'm a bit puzzled by oil above the gasket line, but I guess it can creep up. Here's another picture; it's right behind the AC

I'm leaning to it being the oil pan, which I have no plans to address at the moment (I read that it's a toss up between dropping the front diff or pulling the motor, none of which appeal to me at the moment after spending a quality weekend under the truck refreshing the front end):

I doubt it's the crank seal, as I replaced it within the past two years when I did the timing belt. Of course I could have screwed it up, but it seems to not be coming from that area.
Did you use dealer parts or an ebay kit or aftermarket?
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:34 PM #36
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Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
I am just curious. What type of oil are you using with these engines seeping and getting worse?

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Been using Mobil1 5w30 for the last 6 or 7 years with everything bone dry. Only noticed this seepage a few months ago.
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Old 11-26-2019, 09:04 PM #37
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Originally Posted by repo View Post
Did you use dealer parts or an ebay kit or aftermarket?
It was OEM. I just inspected the underside of the crankshaft area - it appears dry. I don't think that's where it's seeping from, but dye will tell (hopefully).
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