12-04-2019, 04:11 AM
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#16
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Could have a sticky piston on your front brake calipers. If so it would cause a pull to one side if you let go of the steering wheel on a flat road without much of a crown.
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12-04-2019, 08:07 AM
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#17
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Elite Member
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Does the transmission shift points change when you switch from normal to ect? Maybe your transmission is going into pwr instead of normal and not displaying the change. I never heard of this but just a thought.
Another possibility is your transmission is not shifting properly. Via a binding shift down cable or a solenoid non functioning properly.
One would think the Toyota certified techinitions would know what they were doing. However, when they changed my struts that are lifetime warranted in my 02 Camry they left a seat bolt on my backseat floor. So you cant always count on it. :[
I can leave bolts out for free..
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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12-04-2019, 09:42 AM
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#18
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@ LazeR
It's still worth checking the parking brake operation even if you don't use it. The reason I suggested a longer test drive is to make sure that the transmission is given a chance to get past any "failsafe" behaviors caused by the extra cold weather. It will also give you a better chance of noticing any changes in driving from the initial start throughout the longer drive. The more info we have the better we can try to narrow it down.
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12-04-2019, 10:01 AM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
@ LazeR
It's still worth checking the parking brake operation even if you don't use it. The reason I suggested a longer test drive is to make sure that the transmission is given a chance to get past any "failsafe" behaviors caused by the extra cold weather. It will also give you a better chance of noticing any changes in driving from the initial start throughout the longer drive. The more info we have the better we can try to narrow it down.
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It's definitely not the parking brake. It only happened when my 4runner shifted into overdrive, and when I clicked it into neutral it freewheeled perfectly fine. (This was done while I was having the issue.)
I have driven it all over town, then onto the highway to get to work, everything was sitting at operating temperature for quite awhile.
Currently I haven't had another issue.
I am hopefully sending my fluid off today to Blackstone, and tomorrow I will drop and fill again to see what happens.
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12-04-2019, 10:10 AM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LazeR
It's definitely not the parking brake. It only happened when my 4runner shifted into overdrive, and when I clicked it into neutral it freewheeled perfectly fine. (This was done while I was having the issue.)
I have driven it all over town, then onto the highway to get to work, everything was sitting at operating temperature for quite awhile.
Currently I haven't had another issue.
I am hopefully sending my fluid off today to Blackstone, and tomorrow I will drop and fill again to see what happens.
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Thanks for the additional info. Does the "dragging" feeling only occur while coasting in 4th gear?
Edit: The reason I say it's worth checking the parking brake operation is because the rear shoes get adjusted by engaging the parking brake. It would really suck for me if I had to do a rear brake job and then find out the bell cranks are seized and I can't adjust the rear shoes with it. Yes, I could still use a screwdriver to turn the adjuster wheel, but I'm lazy and the parking brake when operating correctly will get the shoes in just the right spot.
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Last edited by Bad Luck; 12-04-2019 at 10:15 AM.
Reason: Added info
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12-04-2019, 10:10 AM
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#21
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Another thing I would say is to find a transmission fluid that is as close to the original dex III as possible. The reason I say that is because I noticed that a lot of the different fluids wildly varying viscosities.
I don't like the idea of using fluid that is much thinner than the original design called for. The closest fluid I found after a lot of research was the blue bottled dex/Merc fluid by Valvoline.
Just a thought.
I would also check to see what Toyota used originally, hopefully not world standard or IV
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12-04-2019, 01:16 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20
I would also check to see what Toyota used originally, hopefully not world standard or IV
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Good catch! I second that. Hopefully they didn't use WS or IV, but if they did a transmission flush should fix it.
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12-04-2019, 05:12 PM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
Good catch! I second that. Hopefully they didn't use WS or IV, but if they did a transmission flush should fix it.
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Well when I had called to get a quote from my local Toyota dealer (just for giggles really) I asked them what fluid they would use they said world standard. Of course I told them that the a340f isn't designed for that fluid (or visaversa) , they responded by saying "that's all we have".
So honestly I would not trust them... Toyota is good, but the dealerships are generally crap
Last edited by jross20; 12-04-2019 at 05:15 PM.
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12-04-2019, 05:16 PM
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#24
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As far as dealerships go, never assume the service advisors know what the technicians do or what parts/fluids are available or used.
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12-04-2019, 11:18 PM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LazeR
I have been super busy with work ...
then I am going to drop my pan, check the screen, and magnets, refill, and do a poor mans flush. I have decided to use Valvoline MaxLife Red Cap. So I guess we will see what happens, and I will try to keep this thread updated!
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We're all busy but take the extra time to do this instead, you won't regret it - Instructions: Complete 100% trans flush with filter change - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion
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12-05-2019, 01:18 PM
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#27
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Timmy has an excellent video on how to do this but when I first learned I used this video. I even use the same $17 pump. I use a separate battery to power it but the onboard battery will also work just fine.
YouTube
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12-05-2019, 03:42 PM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
If Toyota T4 or WS is in a 3rd gen 4 runner transmission. I believe it mostly slips. It's been documented that T4 is not compatible with our Transmission. We have TB that state not compatible at all with our transmission use dexron II or III compatible.
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Any chance you can come up with that TB? I finally got a hold of the dealer, and they said they put T-IV in when they flushed it....
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12-05-2019, 09:19 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LazeR
Any chance you can come up with that TB? I finally got a hold of the dealer, and they said they put T-IV in when they flushed it....
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Sounds like you found your problem. A complete fluid swap should fix it as long as there isn't any permanent damage from the T4.
This list of trans fluids for the different years may help you convince them.
http://www.carquestprofessionals.com...%206.10.13.pdf
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12-05-2019, 10:00 PM
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#30
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I got my labs back from Blackstone. The results are attached.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomerBob
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Thank you very much! I actually called back, but slowly baited them. I had another tech answer, that sounded a lot more intelligent. He actually looked it up, and told me Dex II or Dex III which is what my dipstick says and we all know is what it requires. I then asked what would happen if T-IV got put in, and he explained all the problems and in my mind was correct (also not what I was experiencing) Then I had him lookup exactly what fluid was put in my 4Runner and it was a Dex III. So NO T-IV thankfully.
Anyway, so far no more issues. Although it still runs hotter than I would like. I have no idea how old the clutch fan is, but I am strongly thinking of running a B&M Cooler in line with my radiator. I would run it standalone (Well I would probably do a Tru Cool for standalone) but I am in Wyoming and it can get down right cold here. I just wouldn't want to run it to cold, if it gets -20 to -30 here which is does and can.
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