Originally Posted by ryandc

Speeds and feeds up-front:

Vehicle is a 1999 with the 3.4L engine, traditional J-style 4-wheel drive transfer case, and manual transmission

Transmission had old (OEM, original) clutch replaced at 194,000 miles with a (sigh) Gripforce clutch. In my defense, I didn't have a lot of money at the time. Said clutch now has roughly 80,000 miles on it.



The problem:



Clutch pedal has been squeaking for a long time. I've mostly ignored it, but those chickens seem to have finally come home to roost. Last week, I found myself unable to put the car into gear while it's running. If I tried to start the car while in gear, the clutch feels engaged to the flywheel (starts moving forward on its own), or stalls when I apply the brakes, even with the clutch shoved all the way to the floor.



It's classic "Pressing the pedal isn't fully disengaging the clutch" behavior.



This could be hydraulics, but the thing is, it goes into gear... sometimes. I'd suspect air in the master-slave cylinder line, but that's literally 3 feet of tubing.



I've decided that - seeing as I take this truck on the trail and am sorta dependent on it - it's time to just replace the rest of the hydraulics. To that end, I've purchased the master and slave cylinders, parts AISIN CMT-093 and AISIN CRT-014. I do have some questions, though, that I'm hoping the community can help me out on. Namely:



- If replacing master and slave cylinder, should I replace the line between them? If yes, anybody have a part number handy?



- The pedal bushing issue surfaces a lot, and I've seen everything from welding to ad-hoc spring fixes. What is the best fix for the pedal bushing, assuming that the spring is already eating into the pedal? I do not have a welder at home, but do have a lathe, mill, and a bewildering assortment of nuts and bolts.



- What is the fluid capacity of the clutch hydraulic system? Any recommendations for the fill (it has to be DOT4)?



- The OEM clutch made it to 195,000. My replacement clutch is at 80,000ish miles. Would it be advisable - given the poor reputation of the parts currently in there - to replace the clutch and flywheel as well?



- Could the inability to put the vehicle into gear be anything else? I know the symptoms of a bad clutch (it's why I got this truck so cheaply in the first place), but there may be something I've overlooked.



Thanks always to this community for its help!

Originally Posted by brillo_76

I have seen old clutch master cylinders go bad. That they either leak fluid or that little plunger o rings go bad and the fluid dosent compress the slave cylinder properly.


I personally haven't seen a Toyota manual transmission failed that wasnt heavily abused. I have see people rip reverse out of the 5 speeds before. Granted like everything I am sure they can.


When you depress your clutch pedal is the slave cylinder moving?


Your lucky with 200k that normal and good. I have one with a bad clutch at 120k. I have no idea what the PO did.

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Originally Posted by ryandc

Yeah, I knew when I bought this truck the clutch was bad. If you shifted at too high of revs, you could hear the engine over-rev when the clutch was engaged. As long as you kept the RPM's under 2,000 it was fine, but rapid acceleration wasn't possible.



When I replaced the clutch, I was impressed it worked as well as it did. Fully a third of the clutch fingers were literally gone, and the flywheel was badly scored.



I hate throwing parts at stuff, but $80 worth of parts isn't too bad.