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Old 12-19-2019, 09:52 AM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvpierce View Post
Boiled linseed oil is commonly used as a protective finish for wood. It will not generate heat when applied to the surface of a wooden fence, wooden lawn furniture, or metal equipment/vehicles. You just don't want linseed oil-soaked rags or paint brushes thrown in the trash. Rags and brushes used to apply linseed oil just need to be left out to dry.
Man I was hoping to see a 3rd gen be a ghost rider. Granted it's good to know only the rags will spontaneously combust.

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Old 12-19-2019, 12:53 PM #17
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Man I was hoping to see a 3rd gen be a ghost rider. Granted it's good to know only the rags will spontaneously combust.
Rags laid out flat won't (generally) combust either. They need to be balled up or put in a trash can together or something. The extra surface area of the rag (all the fibers) allows for more of the 'drying' exothermic reaction to happen and heat the rags up too much. As long as it stays cool, you are safe.

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Old 12-20-2019, 12:37 AM #18
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How long does the oil last before you reapply ? Also does it keep dripping after application ? Should I park it in the street so it doesnít get all over the driveway ? Thank you
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Old 12-20-2019, 02:19 AM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvpierce View Post
If you want something that won't readily wash off, consider boiled linseed oil.

Goes on as a liquid, forms a semi-tacky film when dry, and is safe on rubber and plastic parts. Old farmers have been using it on equipment since Jesus was a corporal.


My dad coated all his masonry tools with it and itís popular on the Jeep CJ forum I belong to.


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Old 12-20-2019, 04:18 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaineRunna View Post
As a longtime Fluid Film user I was curious when I worked on a customer's Wrangler with a recently repaired frame with a thick, waxy, clingy, black undercoating on it. I asked him what it was and he told me New Hampshire oil. I've seen a few vehicles with it now and it seems to hold up better than Fluid Film. It is also jet black and will cover ugly looking frames. Well I just put about a gallon on my wife's 05 today and I'm impressed. Sprayed on nice, covered well. It comes in black or clear and costs about $40/gal.
This looks like the stuff that the local Toyota dealer coated my friend's Tacoma with. He got a notice to take his truck to a dealer for a frame inspection, his frame checked out okay but they sent him home with this heavy goopy looking rust protection. It may not be pretty but i bet it works, i would take this over the rust anyways
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Old 12-20-2019, 08:35 AM #21
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Great product Fluid Film, used it for 7 years on my 11 FJ (New England and NYC winters -100% outdoors and it saw its share of salt)

Did a Fluid Film treatment on my 18 4R in the fall and in the spring of 19. It does need reapplying after some time. Good you can power wash it off if needed.
It will attract some dirt but I'll live with a dirty looking underside for the protection value. This fall I did a Fluid Film coating and then WoolWax application over that just before the first snow and road salting. WoolWax is the same as FluidFilm but thicker and does come in a black color option. I just did 4 rattle cans and also wiped a coating on the rims (saw a video from Australia where they swear by Lanolin oil for the 4x4's) again its not permanent but does stick well and will get a light re-coating (after a good wash) in the spring.

Good real world test here YouTube

In my experience w the FJ the more (coating- Fluid Film/WoolWax) you can keep on through the winter elements the better. Doesn't look pretty and drives me its (OCD) but its a battle against the rust here.
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Old 12-20-2019, 10:46 AM #22
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Here's another video of some tests that were done.

I've been using LPS 3 for a few years now with excellent results.

YouTube
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Old 12-20-2019, 07:11 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theriddler View Post
This looks like the stuff that the local Toyota dealer coated my friend's Tacoma with. He got a notice to take his truck to a dealer for a frame inspection, his frame checked out okay but they sent him home with this heavy goopy looking rust protection. It may not be pretty but i bet it works, i would take this over the rust anyways
They use a product called Noxudol. It eventually dries and the rust comes back.
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Old 12-23-2019, 01:45 PM #24
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How long does the oil last before you reapply ? Also does it keep dripping after application ? Should I park it in the street so it doesnít get all over the driveway ? Thank you
It lasts a solid year and it is not nearly as drippy or oily as it looks in the picture. I had literally just finished spraying over a gallon on with my wool wax sprayer when I took the picture. It firms right up like a wax or kinda like what GM puts on their truck frames. (doesn't peel though) I have been a long time user and proponent of Fluid Film since first seeing it in the early 1990's working in the commercial fishing industry when I got laid off from my mechanic job. I still love it, but this stuff holds up better and if the frame is already ugly, the black completely covers it.
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Old 12-23-2019, 03:11 PM #25
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Man I was hoping to see a 3rd gen be a ghost rider. Granted it's good to know only the rags will spontaneously combust.

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in my previous life I was a wood working guy.

I have a lot of experience with BLO ( aka boiled linseed oil ) all modern BLO includes drier agents.

it's an oxidizing oil meaning it does cure just like any of the poly resins. it will start on fire. it's easy to do it, just soak a rag down and ball it up really really tight and put in a place like a fire pit?

there is a lot of confusing info out there on BLO but it's an old time finish and for exterior surfaces it's actually worse than putting nothing on at all. it's a terrible exterior finish. it's far too brittle and once cured cracks easily and traps moisture readily. It also encourages mold and mildew growth. it also lets moisture thru the cured surface film very easily.

the only reason I would put it on anything outside would be to accelerate the deterioration process.

to each their own but IMO it's not even a choice.

exterior surface finishes should remain flexible enough to expand and contract with the temps. if their was a magic old time finish that was cheap and easy we would still be using it.
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Old 12-23-2019, 03:20 PM #26
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Quote:
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in my previous life I was a wood working guy.



I have a lot of experience with BLO ( aka boiled linseed oil ) all modern BLO includes drier agents.



it's an oxidizing oil meaning it does cure just like any of the poly resins. it will start on fire. it's easy to do it, just soak a rag down and ball it up really really tight and put in a place like a fire pit?



there is a lot of confusing info out there on BLO but it's an old time finish and for exterior surfaces it's actually worse than putting nothing on at all. it's a terrible exterior finish. it's far too brittle and once cured cracks easily and traps moisture readily. It also encourages mold and mildew growth. it also lets moisture thru the cured surface film very easily.



the only reason I would put it on anything outside would be to accelerate the deterioration process.



to each their own but IMO it's not even a choice.



exterior surface finishes should remain flexible enough to expand and contract with the temps. if their was a magic old time finish that was cheap and easy we would still be using it.
Good to know...:] I am leaning more with the cosmoline in the wheel well anyhow as its gets more solid and cant wash off.

Fluid film does good but in heavy washable areas it wont sray

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