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Old 12-15-2019, 06:23 PM #1
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New Frame Undercoating!

As a longtime Fluid Film user I was curious when I worked on a customer's Wrangler with a recently repaired frame with a thick, waxy, clingy, black undercoating on it. I asked him what it was and he told me New Hampshire oil. I've seen a few vehicles with it now and it seems to hold up better than Fluid Film. It is also jet black and will cover ugly looking frames. Well I just put about a gallon on my wife's 05 today and I'm impressed. Sprayed on nice, covered well. It comes in black or clear and costs about $40/gal.
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Old 12-15-2019, 06:35 PM #2
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If I hadn't read the post with the picture I would have thought your oil pan exploded. I'm so glad they don't salt here in VA.
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Old 12-15-2019, 06:52 PM #3
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id hate to be the next one to work on that
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Old 12-15-2019, 07:33 PM #4
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Originally Posted by 04rnr View Post
id hate to be the next one to work on that
Life in rusty New England. It's a little messy, but it's not as oily as it looks. It's more for frames that are already rusty, with the paint partially or mostly gone.
I'm buying an 02 that was traded in at a local small dealership by an Air Force couple from CO when they blew the engine. It's frame is so beautiful, but I will coat it with this stuff at least inside to preserve it. The one benefit of living here is the ability to buy 4runners cheap because of the frames.
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Old 12-15-2019, 08:04 PM #5
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I bought some clear NH oil to try out in a small spray can. The pinch weld on the drivers front door on my lexus started to rust. Squirted some i
In thru the drain holes. 3 years later and no rust. It creeps so the bottom of the door gets oily. But sure beats rusted doors.
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Old 12-15-2019, 08:34 PM #6
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I heard of that product. Lots of folks are happy with it. Hope it works great for you.

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Old 12-16-2019, 01:31 AM #7
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That spare might be slick for the first half mile or so.

I hate rust. I’d be fine with pressure washing the area prior to major work.
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Old 12-16-2019, 09:38 PM #8
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Cool stuff. Already Fluid Film'd for the season, but might give this a shot in summer. Thanks for sharing.

Looks pretty similar in chemical composition to Fluid Film after comparing the MSDS on both. This NH company just uses more paraffinic oils to get that thick, goopy finish.
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Old 12-16-2019, 09:59 PM #9
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If you want something that half dried and wont come off. You have to goto a cosmoline or something that uses it as its base.

I like FF because I can pressure wash it off and fix something and just recoat it.

That probably wouldn't appeal to all though.


I may switch to cosmoline for my wheel wells and inner fenders and some areas that really get basically power washed while just driving when its raining.

I want to experiment with a few products before I decide what to use in these areas. so for now, I stick with my FF for all.



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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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Old 12-16-2019, 10:10 PM #10
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So for either this or fluid from, how to do guys apply it?
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Old 12-17-2019, 06:43 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
If you want something that half dried and wont come off. You have to goto a cosmoline or something that uses it as its base.

I like FF because I can pressure wash it off and fix something and just recoat it.

That probably wouldn't appeal to all though.


I may switch to cosmoline for my wheel wells and inner fenders and some areas that really get basically power washed while just driving when its raining.

I want to experiment with a few products before I decide what to use in these areas. so for now, I stick with my FF for all.



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If you want something that won't readily wash off, consider boiled linseed oil.
Goes on as a liquid, forms a semi-tacky film when dry, and is safe on rubber and plastic parts. Old farmers have been using it on equipment since Jesus was a corporal.
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Old 12-17-2019, 09:10 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvpierce View Post
If you want something that won't readily wash off, consider boiled linseed oil.

Goes on as a liquid, forms a semi-tacky film when dry, and is safe on rubber and plastic parts. Old farmers have been using it on equipment since Jesus was a corporal.
Lots of oils will work. . Dang you know so old farmers..lol. I may half to add that to my list of things to try.

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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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Old 12-17-2019, 09:51 AM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvpierce View Post
If you want something that won't readily wash off, consider boiled linseed oil.

Goes on as a liquid, forms a semi-tacky film when dry, and is safe on rubber and plastic parts. Old farmers have been using it on equipment since Jesus was a corporal.
When linseed oil combines with air, the oxygen molecules cause a chemical reaction that creates heat. According to the article, if the linseed oil is on something flammable (like a rag you might use to clean your patio furniture), it can catch fire with no outside spark at as low as 120 degrees.

Granted nothing really should be flammable but a flash point of 120 degrees could be nasty. Of course we could pretend we are the ghost rider as a rigs burn to the ground as we are driving down the road.

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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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Old 12-18-2019, 03:07 PM #14
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Lots of oils will work. . Dang you know so old farmers..lol. I may half to add that to my list of things to try.

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Unlike other oil based products, boiled linseed oil doesn't just leave an oily coating, it forms a "skin" like a varnish. In fact, I believe it's the main ingredient it wood varnish.
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Old 12-18-2019, 03:16 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
When linseed oil combines with air, the oxygen molecules cause a chemical reaction that creates heat. According to the article, if the linseed oil is on something flammable (like a rag you might use to clean your patio furniture), it can catch fire with no outside spark at as low as 120 degrees.

Granted nothing really should be flammable but a flash point of 120 degrees could be nasty. Of course we could pretend we are the ghost rider as a rigs burn to the ground as we are driving down the road.

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Boiled linseed oil is commonly used as a protective finish for wood. It will not generate heat when applied to the surface of a wooden fence, wooden lawn furniture, or metal equipment/vehicles. You just don't want linseed oil-soaked rags or paint brushes thrown in the trash. Rags and brushes used to apply linseed oil just need to be left out to dry.
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