No. Stock 5VZ-FE's with stock bolts can handle up to 15 PSI on a daily driver. You'll be nowhere near that, around 6-7 PSI.

Don't drop compression either. Lower compression = less power and will defeat the point of supercharging.

lowering compression is only counterproductive if you are trying to spool a turbo at a lower rpm or don't want to up the boost past stock. Otherwise dropping static compression is beneficial. i've been up 30 hours so I need some sleep, but I can explain why later if you want.

Stock bolts on most cars can probably handle close to 15psi. My point is it is extra insurance if he wants that with the extra clamping force and reusability.

As long as the engine wasn't overheated, dont worry about it.

youl'd have to disassemble the block completely to deck it. At that point you may as well pull your engine you have now and rebuild it completely. same for the head.

You also have the option of disregarding everything i've said any listen to the other people that say swap the engine without doing anything to prep it for boost, bolt the supercharger on and let it rip. You should do a little research on this, not just 4runner or toyota specific, but on engines and prepping for boost and make your own informed decision. Factor in your goals, wants, and constraints.

Decide how much power you want, do you want to turn the boost up ever? Budget, etc. If you plan to run stock boost levels permanently, You shouldn't have a prob just dropping the low mile engine in as long as everything's good on it.

Yes, I do understand the concept and for a lot of engines that did not come with a OEM option to convert to forced induction, that is very true. Can help with the longevity of the engine.

However the 5VZ-FE was designed to handle boost. Lowering the compression isn't necessary.

Yea that’s what I’m thinking too. Being stock parts are good up to 15ish psi, I’m not planning on doing more than 10psi. I’m not a fan of rebuilt engines, I’d rather find a good low mile used one and I’m leaning that way.


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[QUOTE=Mackalicious;3410110]As long as the engine wasn't overheated, dont worry about it.

This is completely wrg, even if ur engine was never overheat u should to have ur deck resurfaced when ur using MLS head gaskets. Not only should u have said resufaced but u need to talk with the machine shop and make sure their equipment is up to the job. MLS gasaket require very low RA numbers to seal properly and allow them to function as designed (if ur reading this and don't know what RA stands for then u dont understand and need to read up on MLS gaskets and RA before u just slap them on ur engine), in most cases when rebuilding an DD engine composite gaskets r all u need. You need to make sure the machine shop u use can get the surface into specs or u will be one of the peeps on here talking about how a used toyota engine is better then a rebuild because ur new head gaskets a failing with low miles when compared to and OEM unit, not understanding that it was a lack of understanding on ur part that caused the failure.

I've done both - pulling the motor and doing HG's with the motor still in. I'd much rather do HGs with the motor in place than pull the whole motor.

Anyway - lot's of the comments I read are speculation based - you need to do some tests.

Do a compression test and see if your motor is still any good / worth keeping. Granted a blown HG can slightly skew these numbers, if the bottom end is good, I personally would feel a lot better with a new HG on a known health block than a 150K ish replacement motor that has X number of miles left on that HG and unknown health.

If the motor is good, take it down to the block surface, and use a mechanic's milled straight edge to test the surface of the block and heads. If in spec, no need to machine the motor, but do definitely clean / prep the surfaces. If not in spec, go to the machine shop. The iron block is most likely fine, and if anything, the aluminum heads will need it if the motor ever overheated.

I think ARP studs are overkill personally... We aren't building race cars here. But that's one man's opinion.

Can I ask your credentials since you are making that assertion?

You should always be checking the sealing surface of the heads / block when installing new head gaskets.

I'm pretty certain that its fairly common knowledge that a MLS gasket needs to have lower RA numbers than composite. I posted a link about it as well.

Not sure why anyone would think a used engine is better than a properly rebuilt one either. Machining tolerances aren't a special thing that only Toyota is capable of.

9/10 times you don't need to pull your engine and have it decked, unlike what that guy is saying. For our application I will bet your wont have a problem pulling the head and dropping another HG without measuring for warpage unless it was overheated. Then i'd look into things further. Most of the time a visual inspection is sufficient IMO.

u mean like actually work exp. and training... I mean, i never worked on a real vehicle or anything like that, but i did stay in a Holiday inn express last night...

"9/10 times you don't need to pull your engine and have it decked, unlike what that guy is saying"

Peoples reading comprehension amazes me. I never said that u should pull ur engine and have it decked when changing the head gaskets... with composite gaskets, i did how ever say if ur using an MLS gasket (which is the type of gasket that was being discussed) that IMO 1 should because of RA #. The MLS was not used on the 3.4L 4runner until 99. So the factory blocks didn't require an RA # to seal with said and u r running a very greater risk of a MLS leaking. Many machine shops r still running the same equipment from the hay day of rebuilding muscle cars that didn't require an RA to seal properly for MLS (I learned this the hard way) and have seen a # close their doors as of late. My point of my original post is was to inform peeps that may be new to a rebuild and think, "o the MLS is supposed to be better and i want to put the best i can in so i don't have issues". 4 the average 3.4L composite head gaskets r all that is required, and come on forums to read up and think that just because the block was never overheated that it doesn't need to be decked... if they r going to use an MLS.

I agree with rideeex the only thing that I would do different is I would have the heads done at a machine shop. I have done 4 head gasket jobs in the last couple of years I had great work done in San Marcos at Paradise Motor sports Machine shop. It's worth the money to have the valves cut and heads resurfaced also they reset valve lash. If your heads are cracked I have a couple heads.

Does it white smoke out the exhaust?
I'd try blue devil HG sealer (Steal Seal) before I swapped another engine. blue devil - Bing video

blue devil - Bing video

Scotty Kilmer 900 million Youtube views HG sealers blue devil - Bing video

LOL chill. Head gasket sealers are no replacement for a head gasket job.