12-15-2019, 09:23 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Arlington, VA
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Defer engine replacement (1997 manual 4Runner)?
My 1997 4Runner (288K miles, 4cyl manual, VIN JT3HM84R2V0024195) overheated on the highway, so I had it towed to my mechanic. My mechanic diagnosed a blown head gasket and said that a used japanese engine would be $1200, plus $1200 for labor=$2400. But it seems the going price for a used engine in the Washington DC/Baltimore area is closer to $1600, and I would VERY MUCH like to minimize the cost until I can start earning income again.
Any ideas to find a cheaper engine or somehow defer costs for a few months?
Last edited by dakrause; 12-15-2019 at 09:26 PM.
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12-15-2019, 11:08 PM
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#2
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If that's the going rate in your area, then not much you can do. Save up the money and get the engine swapped properly. Cutting corners on cars never works. Someone is going to chime in and say to have him do the head gasket. Odds are the head may be cracked or exhaust valves burned. Pretty common on these. If the mechanic quoted an engine swap then odds are he doesn't want to liability that comes with that job.
Last edited by T4R2014; 12-15-2019 at 11:10 PM.
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12-16-2019, 09:42 AM
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#3
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Yeah, get a bank loan. or buy a $300 beater and park that. Bus rides are cheap and walkings free.
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12-16-2019, 01:21 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Oct 2014
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That's actually not a bad price for a low mileage engine swap. I did my JDM engine swap on my own and the engine cost $1300 and spent around $500 on fluids, gasket, etc.
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12-17-2019, 12:58 PM
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#5
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Location: Arlington, VA
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Thank you for your input.
What is a good potential source for JDM engines? Craigslist has some listed for $1700(which seems high) from locations over 1000 miles away, neither of which is encouraging.
The junkyards I have spoken with "usually" indicate the miles (not always) and say things like "runs good", but I would have no way to confirm their statements or hold them to account! Is there any way to have any confidence in the condition of a used engine?
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12-17-2019, 04:48 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrause
Thank you for your input.
What is a good potential source for JDM engines? Craigslist has some listed for $1700(which seems high) from locations over 1000 miles away, neither of which is encouraging.
The junkyards I have spoken with "usually" indicate the miles (not always) and say things like "runs good", but I would have no way to confirm their statements or hold them to account! Is there any way to have any confidence in the condition of a used engine?
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Not unless you can visit the place you buy it from. I just happened to be there right before a shipment of 5VZ's came in from Japan, so I came back a week later and they performed the compression test right in front of me. They even had me leave a mark somewhere on the engine block that only I knew was there and then upon delivery find the mark to ensure I was getting the engine that I saw at the shop. They were honest and easy to work with and the engine I got was fantastic. They are here on the west coast in California but I do recommend them: Welcome to Venus Imports | JDM Engines & Parts at the BEST prices.
There is no way to 100% guarantee the mileage is true though. Mine said it had 79,500 km on it but at least the compression check was good, so didn't really matter.
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12-17-2019, 05:10 PM
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#7
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A lot of these 5VZs have the original plugs in them. At a 30k interval, I doubt these engines would be running as good as they do if those OEM plugs were run past that. I can believe the low mileage claims on those engines.
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12-18-2019, 12:22 PM
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#8
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Thanks, I'll show my mechanic the short list of used engines to see what he says. For example, there is 2000 (3 years newer than my model year) with 136K miles, and the junkyard seems to be helpful and is well regarded on Google.
The only saving grace is that I had delayed replacing my clutch despite it starting to slip(the new one is literally in the box behind the passenger seat). Mechanic says that the incremental cost of replacing the clutch is ZERO. So in a very odd way I just saved $600 in labor to change the clutch. Yay?
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12-18-2019, 02:11 PM
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#9
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrause
Thanks, I'll show my mechanic the short list of used engines to see what he says. For example, there is 2000 (3 years newer than my model year) with 136K miles, and the junkyard seems to be helpful and is well regarded on Google.
The only saving grace is that I had delayed replacing my clutch despite it starting to slip(the new one is literally in the box behind the passenger seat). Mechanic says that the incremental cost of replacing the clutch is ZERO. So in a very odd way I just saved $600 in labor to change the clutch. Yay?
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You do have the advantage that you are looking for a 3RZ, and not the much more popular 5VZ-FE. You might have an easier time finding an engine.
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12-18-2019, 02:31 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrause
Thanks, I'll show my mechanic the short list of used engines to see what he says. For example, there is 2000 (3 years newer than my model year) with 136K miles, and the junkyard seems to be helpful and is well regarded on Google.
The only saving grace is that I had delayed replacing my clutch despite it starting to slip(the new one is literally in the box behind the passenger seat). Mechanic says that the incremental cost of replacing the clutch is ZERO. So in a very odd way I just saved $600 in labor to change the clutch. Yay?
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You might have to be aware of the ignition system. The 96 to mid 97 3rz was a distributor engine. Then there was a change to dual coil??( not sure). And then a final change toward the end of the run??(again not positive). Mine is a 96 distributor.
This will limit your pool. For example if you are old like mine a 2000 would likely require wiring harness and ecu?? Not as cut and dried as the v6 that was compatible across the run. I'd suggest research on this one.
And not to be as a$$ but keep in mind that overheating causes head gasket issues. Look into an Ultraguage so you can set a high temp alarm and protect your next engine. It's cheap insurance.
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Last edited by Kanoe; 12-18-2019 at 02:47 PM.
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12-18-2019, 02:42 PM
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#11
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The JDM engines I looked at came from this outfit. No idea how many outfits like that are in Japan. It seemed the US dealers just order container loads of engines and transmissions from outfits like this and then resale them.
Kind of gives you an idea where these things come from.
HY JAPAN | Used Engines From Japan | HY JAPAN for jdm Engine and car
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Currently own a 98 SR5, 5spd, 4x4, e-locker, no sunroof. 2012 LTD with the normal options.
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12-18-2019, 04:16 PM
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#12
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How badly did you overheat the engine? Pulled over when the light came on, or soldier on until it ground to a halt?
If you pulled over promptly, no reason you couldn't just swap the HG. I don't know if you can do that sort of work yourself, but if you could, probably keep the total costs under a grand, maybe even down closer to %500-ish.
If you ground it to a halt, - yeah, replacement is the best bet. The '30K mile' claims the JDM engine places put out are a bit suspect. I don't think they track the car each engine came from. Some cars maybe had that magical Japanese life of being parked and only driven to see the cherry blossoms once a year, until cruel Japanese laws forced the dismantling of a low-mileage mint car. But many cars in Japan get used like US car. 100, 150, 200K miles. Used hard, maintained randomly. You never know. As mentioned above, insist on a compression test, hopefully if you can't visit in person they'll send you a video that both shows the engine numbers on the block and the PSI's it's putting out.
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12-19-2019, 01:13 AM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc
How badly did you overheat the engine? Pulled over when the light came on, or soldier on until it ground to a halt?
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Pulled into rest station within 10 miles. In engine's life the temperature gauge has only ever touched the red line twice previous, both times engine overheated while idling on hot, humid summer days with full A/C. I always switched engine off before engine shut off on its own. My mechanic isn't inclined to fix head gasket, plus the need to change the clutch suggests that engine swap is favorable option.
Last edited by dakrause; 12-27-2019 at 06:25 PM.
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01-18-2020, 07:16 PM
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#14
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Engine(3RZFE from 4Runner year 2000 136K miles)= $1133.00
Shipping= $171.54
Aisin clutch, flywheel, Rear main seal, power steering pump, water pump+3 belts= $344.48
Labor= $1200.00
Total= $2849.02
9 working days to change engine, mechanic said was driven for 30 miles after engine change and to take it back to him in a few days.
Engine light came on as expected. But curiously have minimal heat through vent and A/C compressor will not engage at all.
Last edited by dakrause; 01-18-2020 at 07:20 PM.
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01-18-2020, 10:39 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrause
Engine(3RZFE from 4Runner year 2000 136K miles)= $1133.00
Shipping= $171.54
Aisin clutch, flywheel, Rear main seal, power steering pump, water pump+3 belts= $344.48
Labor= $1200.00
Total= $2849.02
9 working days to change engine, mechanic said was driven for 30 miles after engine change and to take it back to him in a few days.
Engine light came on as expected. But curiously have minimal heat through vent and A/C compressor will not engage at all.
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That's a very good price. I've spent almost that much (not including labor of course) R&R-ing motors with bad head gaskets. You made the right choice at your mileage. Your head was almost definitely cracked and waiting to surprise you with an extra 600$ bill.
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