01-12-2020, 12:35 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: initech
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Junior Member
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Which mods to pick from?
So I'll be selling my motorcycle in the spring and plan on putting that money towards mods on my bone stock 99 4runner Limited (no locker)
I've got a long list of potential mods to pick from and am deciding on the best way to spend it. I want a practical rig that can be a back up for my daily driver if I ever need it. I dont plan on getting into extreme off roading or rock crawling, just something fun for weekend use. I should be able to get about 4k for my bike.
I was thinking OME 3" lift w/diff drop, spc uca, adj panhard bar, larger tires, rock sliders, and the TBU
What are your thoughts?
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01-12-2020, 12:50 PM
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#2
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: DC
Posts: 287
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Absalom did a great build thread you might find helpful.
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2002 Limited 4Runner
2001 Jeep Cherokee
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01-12-2020, 01:01 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: initech
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Junior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jidaran
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Damn, thanks. How have I never seen this?
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01-12-2020, 02:29 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
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This is just my opinion, but I wouldn't lift the front over 2" if you can help it. What I hate is that you loose down travel, when I had a Tacoma before I didn't think about it and my down travel was like 0.7 or 0.8" so the shocks BANGED all the time as they maxed out. lol.
For the rear, I'd go with 890s and tundra shocks which I think is fairly cheap. But you'll need to get the panhard bar relocation bracket from that e guy here on the forums. Weld it on, paint it and shit so it doesn't rust. Then slap on some 2nd gen 4runner swaybar links, they are longer but also are not mega duty. But if you're not doing crazy shit I think you'll be good. There is someone here who sells mega ones if you want god-like ones. Next, extend the brake line so you don't snap that shit while flexing. Finally, I would swap out the rear lower trailing arms (lower ones to rear axle) with some mega duty solid steel ones. So if you ever hit a rock you'll be fine. The stock ones are NOT going to take a rock hit and survive without kinking up.
This setup gives me plenty of flex without the springs dropping out haha, seems to ride good.
For the front... Well I've no idea as currently I do not like my front setup as well as the rear...
Also, make sure you do all of your maintenance. Change those damn front lower and upper ball joints before they kick the bucket and possibly get you killed. (The spindle will basically just about fall off and break all kinds of shit)
Flush the transmission with your preferred DEX III compatible fluid. Also, this one is really a mod but I consider it mandatory... Install an auxiliary transmission cooler and bypass the radiator. If the radiator ever fails and allows transmission fluid to mix with coolant...you get pink milkshake and most likely a ruined transmission. So don't let that shit F up your truck!
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01-12-2020, 03:19 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Jan 2019
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I'm a little more methodical about my mods. Before I did anything, I made 100% sure that every last Possible bit of maintenance was done. It's the boring place to spend money, but that 3" lift isn't going to do you any good when the LBJ fails or you find your trans is filled with pink milkshake.
Next I put importance on things that make a difference every time you drive... a 3" lift and bigger tires don't mean a dang thing if you're on your way to work or the store. TBU on the other hand, is useful Everywhere, all the time (though I don't find fault with the stock brakes, but I'm a slow and cautious drive).
Now, I'm not much into off-roading. As in I'm mostly hunting down camping and hiking spots off forest service roads that any vehicle can make it down. But my understanding is that lifts are mostly only a prelude to larger tires, but you can have the same effect with some cutting and welding while maintaining a lower CoG for more stability. That might be more for slow speed crawling though, I can easily see long travel being necessary for desert racing.
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'99 Limited 4x4, Millenium Silver ~ Maintenance Thread
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01-12-2020, 04:24 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian.
I'm a little more methodical about my mods. Before I did anything, I made 100% sure that every last Possible bit of maintenance was done. It's the boring place to spend money, but that 3" lift isn't going to do you any good when the LBJ fails or you find your trans is filled with pink milkshake.
Next I put importance on things that make a difference every time you drive... a 3" lift and bigger tires don't mean a dang thing if you're on your way to work or the store. TBU on the other hand, is useful Everywhere, all the time (though I don't find fault with the stock brakes, but I'm a slow and cautious drive).
Now, I'm not much into off-roading. As in I'm mostly hunting down camping and hiking spots off forest service roads that any vehicle can make it down. But my understanding is that lifts are mostly only a prelude to larger tires, but you can have the same effect with some cutting and welding while maintaining a lower CoG for more stability. That might be more for slow speed crawling though, I can easily see long travel being necessary for desert racing.
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Agreed on maintenance. It's just so exciting to mod shit. Haha
I'm also looking forward to my TBU.
Also, if you raise the panhard bar to fix the lift issues, it also raises the tip level or something. It feels better in corners!
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01-12-2020, 05:42 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kentucky
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Real Name: Robert');DROP TABLE Students;
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Senior Member
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Location: Kentucky
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Real Name: Robert');DROP TABLE Students;
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20
This is just my opinion, but I wouldn't lift the front over 2" if you can help it. What I hate is that you loose down travel, when I had a Tacoma before I didn't think about it and my down travel was like 0.7 or 0.8" so the shocks BANGED all the time as they maxed out. lol.
For the rear, I'd go with 890s and tundra shocks which I think is fairly cheap. But you'll need to get the panhard bar relocation bracket from that e guy here on the forums. Weld it on, paint it and shit so it doesn't rust. Then slap on some 2nd gen 4runner swaybar links, they are longer but also are not mega duty. But if you're not doing crazy shit I think you'll be good. There is someone here who sells mega ones if you want god-like ones. Next, extend the brake line so you don't snap that shit while flexing. Finally, I would swap out the rear lower trailing arms (lower ones to rear axle) with some mega duty solid steel ones. So if you ever hit a rock you'll be fine. The stock ones are NOT going to take a rock hit and survive without kinking up.
This setup gives me plenty of flex without the springs dropping out haha, seems to ride good.
For the front... Well I've no idea as currently I do not like my front setup as well as the rear...
Also, make sure you do all of your maintenance. Change those damn front lower and upper ball joints before they kick the bucket and possibly get you killed. (The spindle will basically just about fall off and break all kinds of shit)
Flush the transmission with your preferred DEX III compatible fluid. Also, this one is really a mod but I consider it mandatory... Install an auxiliary transmission cooler and bypass the radiator. If the radiator ever fails and allows transmission fluid to mix with coolant...you get pink milkshake and most likely a ruined transmission. So don't let that shit F up your truck!
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This, or at least 98% of it. You're looking for a PCK from
@ eimkeith
Don't bypass the radiator with with ATF cooler. Put a new radiator in it (because they can fail as described above when they're old and corroded) and run it in series with an auxiliary cooler. When it's cold out the radiator will get the ATF to its proper operating temp. It'll also help cool the ATF more on hot days.
Oh, and run some SL 32s instead of E-range 285s unless you absolutely HAVE to have 33s. Huge difference in performance on the street.
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Last edited by thezentree; 01-12-2020 at 05:50 PM.
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01-12-2020, 08:00 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thezentree
This, or at least 98% of it. You're looking for a PCK from
@ eimkeith
Don't bypass the radiator with with ATF cooler. Put a new radiator in it (because they can fail as described above when they're old and corroded) and run it in series with an auxiliary cooler. When it's cold out the radiator will get the ATF to its proper operating temp. It'll also help cool the ATF more on hot days.
Oh, and run some SL 32s instead of E-range 285s unless you absolutely HAVE to have 33s. Huge difference in performance on the street.
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Yes that's my e dude. I can never remember how to spell his name...haha
But I will say to me it isn't worth it using the old rad with the transmission fluid. I like the peace of mind knowing it will never pink milkshake it up
It still warms up just as fast and stays cool (never gets higher than 170, average 150-160). When it's cold out side you can put a sheet of card stock in front of it if you want. I don't. She always gets up to at lease 140 even in 35° F weather. Perhaps of someone lived in the north it would matter more.
I digress.
OP, either option is good. Choose which one you're comfortable with.
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01-13-2020, 07:31 PM
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#9
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,338
Real Name: Jerod
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Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,338
Real Name: Jerod
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Forget all this "offroad" stuff and get a supercharger . I have lots of fun in mine on the weekends and I never leave the pavement...
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