12-18-2019, 01:59 PM
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#31
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Rebuilding a 5VZ is tons of fun....
2JZ? Great motor, except that's not really a 4x4 engine. You need displacement for these vehicles, not high revving HP engines. If I had a chance to swap in a different motor, it would be an LS hands down. Small, lightweight, huge displacement, and very reliable.
You can always do the turbo or supercharger route for the 5VZ, however, that engine bay is very cramped and troubleshooting issues if or when they happen would be a pain in the ass.
Good luck.
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Fadiddy's Build Thread | 2000 Limited 4x4 | e-Locker | ARB Bumper | IPF Lights | Tundra TRD Front Coils & OME 890 Rear Coils | Bilstien 5100 Shocks | Tundra Brake Upgrade | Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers | 285/75R 16 General Grabbers AT2's | Toyotec Bump Stops and Diff Drop | E7006 NAV
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12-18-2019, 02:04 PM
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#32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fadiddy
Rebuilding a 5VZ is tons of fun....
2JZ? Great motor, except that's not really a 4x4 engine. You need displacement for these vehicles, not high revving HP engines. If I had a chance to swap in a different motor, it would be an LS hands down. Small, lightweight, huge displacement, and very reliable.
You can always do the turbo or supercharger route for the 5VZ, however, that engine bay is very cramped and troubleshooting issues if or when they happen would be a pain in the ass.
Good luck.
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How is the supercharger cramped? I'd imagine swapping in an LS motor would be a lot more difficult to work on.
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12-18-2019, 02:10 PM
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#33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APhelps
How is the supercharger cramped? I'd imagine swapping in an LS motor would be a lot more difficult to work on.
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More for the turbo than the supercharger. The supercharger takes the place of the intake plenum, so not so much on the supercharger. However, the turbo....yikes.
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Fadiddy's Build Thread | 2000 Limited 4x4 | e-Locker | ARB Bumper | IPF Lights | Tundra TRD Front Coils & OME 890 Rear Coils | Bilstien 5100 Shocks | Tundra Brake Upgrade | Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers | 285/75R 16 General Grabbers AT2's | Toyotec Bump Stops and Diff Drop | E7006 NAV
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12-18-2019, 02:13 PM
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#34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fadiddy
More for the turbo than the supercharger. The supercharger takes the place of the intake plenum, so not so much on the supercharger. However, the turbo....yikes.
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I'm confused why anyone would turbo the 5vz other than doing it for as a way to prove their capabilities as a fabricator or just to do it.
If you want the 4R to be have some more power the SC makes way more sense than an engine swap or turbo by a large margin.
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12-18-2019, 04:37 PM
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#35
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i thought being on here i could escape the LS fanbois. i guess not. oh well.
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12-19-2019, 12:20 AM
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#36
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Oh brother, not here too...
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Fadiddy's Build Thread | 2000 Limited 4x4 | e-Locker | ARB Bumper | IPF Lights | Tundra TRD Front Coils & OME 890 Rear Coils | Bilstien 5100 Shocks | Tundra Brake Upgrade | Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers | 285/75R 16 General Grabbers AT2's | Toyotec Bump Stops and Diff Drop | E7006 NAV
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12-19-2019, 04:31 PM
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#37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fadiddy
Oh brother, not here too...
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hey you are the one that brought it up. LOL. im assuming that if you LS swapped it an wanted to keep the 4wd, youd have to source a new trans and xfer case, which just adds $$. if youre pushing a good amount of power through it, youd probably have to swap the rear end, which is also more $$. theres a reason i can only find 2WD LS-swapped toyotas (im sure there are 4wd ones out there somewhere)
while i agree a 2j would be a terrible candidate (for other reasons then you list), im assuming you dont know that the 2j came in a AWD config (see altezza gita). you can make a crap load of power with a simple single turbo swap, head studs, and a new headgasket. a 2j has no problem moving stuff, despite what drivetrain you are mating it to.
the real issue with the 2j is weight distro. without pushing is real far back (and having to possibly mod the firewall) your weight distro is going to be all dicked up. one of the biggest downsides of an inline six. this is where an LS shines.
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12-19-2019, 04:39 PM
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#38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexassian
So, I have a 1999 4wd manual transmission right now and I really love it. I just lifted it this past summer and have taken it wheeling a few times and really want to keep this for the long haul. The PO took care of timing belt/water pump/etc. However, I've had seeping valve cover gaskets as long as I've owned it, which is about 10K miles now. I'm not sure of the exact milage as the cluster was swapped at some point but it reads 160K now.
Sadly, confirmed that there is fluid in the #4 cylinder every morning after sitting overnight so head gasket is needing replacement. My question is around whether it would be worth the replacement or try for a swap, with the requirement that I really really want to keep my manual transmission so I'm not leaning towards a v8 swap although I did read there are some adapters available like this one
I was thinking instead to buy a later year (lower milage) wrecked manual trans taco or FJ cruiser and take the motor/trans/t-case from there and swap it in to mine. It would certainly be easier to stick to a 3.4L 5vz based engine which came in tacos up to 2004 but what about the later 4.0L V6s with manual trans like the the FJs and tacos? Has anyone done something like that? How hard is it to splice up the wiring harness or is there a company like xat racing that can make a harness? Obviously, engine and transmission mounts would have to be fabricated, new driveshafts made, etc.
Does anyone have experience with this or am I creating more problems for myself? Curious what the crowd thinks would be the best option here. I've read a bunch of threads but definitely admit that I could search and read more still. Probably the cheapest option is to find a 3rd gen 4runner and swap the engine and keep everything else but if there's a good alternative, I'm definitely willing to explore that.
Thanks in advance
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I have a 1996 manual that burned a valve. I pulled the heads off myself and had them worked over at a machine shop. They replaced 2 valves and all the guides and seals for $650. The heads were not warped. I replaced all seals and gaskets associated with pulling the heads off along with the timing belt and water pump (it was time anyway). I think I spent $1,100 total to fix it.
To me, I knew how well my 375,000 mile motor was serviced and used from day one. So I never considered a used motor. I already had one! Anyway, 50,000 miles later it runs as good as new, leaks no oil, and uses no oil.
Like others have said as well, replace everything your going to touch. For everything else, if it's not leaking leave it be.
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Last edited by Coward; 12-19-2019 at 04:40 PM.
Reason: grammar
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12-19-2019, 04:40 PM
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#39
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Just whip the heads off and get a mechanics flat edge and check everything. If you haven't overheated the hell out of it - you should be able to clean it up and reassemble with all new gaskets. It's not all that hard, in the grand scheme of things. Or maybe my 'grand scheme of things' needs an adjustment. It's easier than swapping in a replacement motor, IMO. And *FAR* easier than swapping a different motor into the vehicle.
Quite often, a blown HG is accompanied by the drive continuing to drive it after the coolant is gone, and *that* can certainly ruin things. But catch it in time, don't keep driving it, and the HG failure in and of itself won't have much if any collateral damage.
My wife did the HG's on her '96 this spring, at a bit over 300K miles. Everything checked as flat, no damage other than the HG itself. Did both sides, obviously, the other side was in similar shape, just hadn't let go quite yet. It had the earlier version of the HG which is partially steel, partially composite. She replaced them with the latest style MLS gasket.
At 300K, the bores on her motor still have very little lip at the top, and a fair amount of crosshatching still visible. Looks good for another 200K in there, at least. I think she's put another 10K on it since then, no issues.
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12-19-2019, 04:51 PM
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#40
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before you go and put the heads back on be sure to check Valve lash. With over 200,000 they are usual out of spec even if they are not noisy. I find I better off getting them to the machine shop let them do the head tear down resurface they will set the lash because you need diffrent size disks. Worth the money for all the other work you do.
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12-19-2019, 04:56 PM
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#41
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I tend to pull the motor if I have to do a head gasket on a high mileage 3.4.
By time you get the heads off all you have left in the rig is the block with AC pump, oil cooler, engine mounts, starter, and bolted to the tranny.
My reasons:
Most often the oil pan seal is leaking. To pull the heads your 3/4 there so I just go all the way.
Most often I want to address the rear main. Might as well.
I've always done both head gaskets. Might as well.
I find it easier to do the work with the engine on a stand. The exhaust manifolds are easier (replacing studs), the oil pan seal is easy, cleaning is easy, ect.....
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12-20-2019, 04:34 PM
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#42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexassian
Am I crazy to think I could do an engine swap in a weekend with help and the right tools?
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no, that's not crazy. if you have the donor ready, right tools, FIPG, belts, new water pump... all that, yep you can do that in a weekend. i posted up in a different thread that my mechanic and i pulled a cratered 3.4 and dropped in a dressed long block, in 10 hrs, start to finish. i had done a little removal first on my own. we just kept up the pace, never really stopped doing stuff, and it got done.
do have some help, and if you're not familiar with parts of what you need to do, see
@ mtbtim
's vids to cure most of that, ha. you'll be happiest if you have an engine crane. we wished i had used a paint pen to mark hoses and stuff first, but it worked out.
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01-29-2020, 12:02 AM
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#43
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Join Date: Dec 2019
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What was the final decision? Engine Swap or just replace the Head Gasket.
My 98 had some overheating issues yesterday. When I took it in today, I was told that the head gasket seems to have a small leak. Just like normal, it was quoted at $1600 but after the heads are machined, $2200. Then the mechanic leads into saying that the bottom end could blow out if the pressure builds up too much after the top end is reworked. From their we went in to discussing a new engine installed at approximation $7000. Has anyone had issues after having the HG replaced?
I hate to jump on your thread for advice, newbie over here can't post his own thread yet...
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01-29-2020, 08:14 PM
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#44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeGCA1986
What was the final decision? Engine Swap or just replace the Head Gasket.
My 98 had some overheating issues yesterday. When I took it in today, I was told that the head gasket seems to have a small leak. Just like normal, it was quoted at $1600 but after the heads are machined, $2200. Then the mechanic leads into saying that the bottom end could blow out if the pressure builds up too much after the top end is reworked. From their we went in to discussing a new engine installed at approximation $7000. Has anyone had issues after having the HG replaced?
I hate to jump on your thread for advice, newbie over here can't post his own thread yet...
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Mike from what I have been told the bottom end are really solid if it has not been abused I would just do the head gaskets after doing a compression test to ensure the rings are in good shape. If you have the HG done then have the heads machined and roll the dice. if you are worried about the bottom end then pull a rod cap and look at the bearing if they look ok then you have all the info you need. I have done 3 HG on the 3.4 1. over 300,000 2. 245,000 3. 175,000
Last edited by plcfcng; 01-29-2020 at 08:16 PM.
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02-02-2020, 09:17 PM
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#45
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My head gasket blew at 235k miles. The overheating that resulted also cracked one of my heads. The job was not terribly difficult. There is a great series of videos on youtube that make the job much easier.
YouTube
I found a nice set of heads at a junk yard that I had resurfaced at a local machine shop. The gasket kit also included a valve cover gasket, so you can check that off your list as well. Don't forget to replace the head bolts, as they're torque to fail.
While the heads are off and all your valves are pulled out you can resurface them if you want to increase your compression. I resurfaced all of mine using Permatex valve grinding compound and saw an impressive increase in compression and power.
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