12-24-2019, 04:47 AM
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#1
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 709
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Muffler Replacement: Universal vs Custom
So my muffler is starting to get leaky and I'm looking at the various options. For $200CAD I could get a flange to flange drop in replacement but I have no idea how easy the bolts will come off.
Or should I go with the universal mufflers and use a variety of adapters/clamps to make it fit? If so, can you just plug in the parameters into Walker's universal search?
Universal Muffler Search | Walker Exhaust Systems
Better yet if someone has a used a universal muffler that fit nicely, please share.
I'm looking for something quiet and as close to OEM as possible, nothing fancy.
Thanks!
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12-24-2019, 08:46 AM
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#2
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Va Beach, VA
Posts: 122
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Location: Va Beach, VA
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I bought the Walker and was going to install it until a friend with more sense than I have convinced me to take it to a local shop. Working under a truck in the driveway with rusty bolts is less than desirable. The shop had to grind the fittings to get to fit correctly. It’s been on about a year, sounds nice and has held up well. It’s only been exposed to salted roads once or twice.
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12-24-2019, 09:33 AM
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#3
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Elite Member
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
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Real Name: Jon
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Walkers for me anyways only last about 5 years. If in the rust belt the bolts will not come off. I mostly cut the bolts off and replace them with stainless steel nuts and bolts so I can remove anytime if need be.
It's a shame the OEM exhaust are so pricey as I rather use them them Aftermarket. However, if you price them you see why so many opt for other replacements.
So it can be a little bit of a project as you have 2 pieces and flanges to deal with.
I dont have luck with the walker exhaust gaskets either. I mostly use OEM gaskets to keep my flanges sealed.
Get ready as if your exhaust muffler is OEM the Aftermarket are louder. Mostly for the age of these rigs the OEM muffler and tailpipes are gone in the rust belts. However there are a few around still on.
You can do it yourself. Just have the ability to cut these flange bolts off. New bolts and nuts to put it back together. Along with gaskets and nuts for your oxygen sensor. The oxygen sensor nuts are special and are only to be used once and replaced.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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12-24-2019, 09:34 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Chicago
Posts: 75
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Location: Chicago
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I went with the Walker after trying out a Magnaflow for a year-n-a-half and couldn't be happier. Walker 54681/54081 along with new hangers and gaskets. Really easy DIY if the bolts aren't all rusted, and not really all that bad if they are.
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12-24-2019, 10:19 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Grand Rapids
Age: 28
Posts: 489
Real Name: Werner
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Grand Rapids
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nobb
So my muffler is starting to get leaky and I'm looking at the various options. For $200CAD I could get a flange to flange drop in replacement but I have no idea how easy the bolts will come off.
Or should I go with the universal mufflers and use a variety of adapters/clamps to make it fit? If so, can you just plug in the parameters into Walker's universal search?
Universal Muffler Search | Walker Exhaust Systems
Better yet if someone has a used a universal muffler that fit nicely, please share.
I'm looking for something quiet and as close to OEM as possible, nothing fancy.
Thanks!
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your other option is to take it to a shop and have them run a new pipe and just weld an aftermarket muffler on. I have a Borla XR1 muffler and I personally love the way it makes my truck sound. I just have a pipe straight back to my exhaust and the exhaust dumps right before the rear axle because I didn't want to see it lol. I paid if memory serves correctly 80 bucks to have the new pipe with hangers installed with the muffler, in the process i upped the size to 2.5 inches to prep for when i get headers. I also deleted a cat in the process and simulated my o2 sensor (extremely easy). I should have deleted both honestly. the only thing that restricts airflow between my cold air intake and the exhaust is the stock manifold, stock throttle body gasket and "high flow" cat. With the exhaust upgrade and cold air intake, i have had impacting gains on power, when I didnt have 33 inch tires i could get 20mpg or pretty darn close highway on cruise control and 17 city.
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12-24-2019, 11:21 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Yukon
Posts: 1,317
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Location: Yukon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
Walkers for me anyways only last about 5 years. If in the rust belt the bolts will not come off. I mostly cut the bolts off and replace them with stainless steel nuts and bolts so I can remove anytime if need be.
It's a shame the OEM exhaust are so pricey as I rather use them them Aftermarket. However, if you price them you see why so many opt for other replacements.
So it can be a little bit of a project as you have 2 pieces and flanges to deal with.
I dont have luck with the walker exhaust gaskets either. I mostly use OEM gaskets to keep my flanges sealed.
Get ready as if your exhaust muffler is OEM the Aftermarket are louder. Mostly for the age of these rigs the OEM muffler and tailpipes are gone in the rust belts. However there are a few around still on.
You can do it yourself. Just have the ability to cut these flange bolts off. New bolts and nuts to put it back together. Along with gaskets and nuts for your oxygen sensor. The oxygen sensor nuts are special and are only to be used once and replaced.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
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I'll agree with Brillo on this one.
I put the Walker cat back on mine 6 months ago. It is a little annoyingly louder than stock and the quality is poor. I don't expect it to last long. They say 'lifetime warranty' on the muffler section - we'll see.
If you have the time, and someone who can do the work, AND if your stock piping is still solid, I'd go with the weld in option like a Borla.
I'd consider the walker a short term solution.
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-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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12-24-2019, 11:42 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: South SF Bay, CA
Posts: 1,758
Real Name: Tony (no surprise)
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I almost replied last night, but when the OP closed stating that he wants something quiet like OEM, I refrained.
If one is willing to accept a throatier more truck-like sound, a stainless steel Borla for about 100 bucks is the way to go, IMO.
I went with the Borla ProXS Muffler 40665, and installed, with new hanger insulators, under 200 bucks.
Love the sound and I'm quite sure it liberates some power; and probably why the 1st gen Tacomas were rated with more HP and torque. Our OEM muffler is a tank. I imagine Toyota postulated the demographics of 4Runner and Tacoma buyers as being different, the former to likely include more families and women drivers...
The space-savings is huge compared to stock. Shedding 12 pounds is nice too. For me personally, I get a bit of a smile every time I fire it up. That's me though. As I noted in my maintenance/build thread, my wife and kids never commented on the sound delta until I had reason to get on it one day. They love the growl, lol.
OEM stock-like sound, nope. Maybe something to consider though...
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12-24-2019, 12:04 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Berwick, Maine USA
Posts: 374
Real Name: Mike
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I've had good luck with the Bosal muffler & pipe assembly plus tailpipe. They last about 4 years in the extremely salty environment of coastal Maine. I've replaced mine twice in 10 years. Both times the tailpipe broke off on the muffler side of the flange and I continued to run the muffler until it got loud. Probably going to replace with a Borla cat back system this time. The Walker Quietflow SS is ok too. The factory system is great, but very expensive. If you live in a rusty area you will want a torch, grinder or sawzall.
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98 SR5 4X4 5spd, desert dune metallic, Toytech Eibach 3" lift, 1" body lift, RAD Rubber Designs splash guards, 4XInnovations bumpers, Doug Thorely Headers, Magna-flow converter, JBA muffler & tail pipe, RCI skid plate, SPC UCA's & rear LCA's, front sway bar links on rear, gen II rear links on front, Tundra brakes, '02 headlights, tail lights & sidemarkers, BFG 255/85R16 Mud Terrain T/A's 241,000 miles.
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12-24-2019, 12:38 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: New Jersey
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Real Name: Ed
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When I replaced my OEM main muffler section the hardware was way too rusty to save, went through like 4 Diablo sawzall blades to get those damn things off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoe
I put the Walker cat back on mine 6 months ago. It is a little annoyingly louder than stock and the quality is poor. I don't expect it to last long. They say 'lifetime warranty' on the muffler section - we'll see.
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Was this the Walker Quiet Flow? I run the main muffler section (stock tailpipe was still good) and found it very close to stock sound volume-wise, not annoying at all. I do agree the OEM was nicer in quality, smoother bends, cleaner welds, etc. It's been 6 or 7 years and the outlet pipe broke off this year, still driving around with no tailpipe (somewhat annoying) until I can bring it to a friend's shop to replace.
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12-24-2019, 01:07 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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Thanks for the replies..on closer inspection I don't think the unit I have is OEM. The previous installer must have also nicked the upstream portion of the pipe so it looks like I might as well scrap the whole thing.
I do plan on replacing all nuts and bolts. I just don't want to damage the existing mating flange. Is there room to get an angle grinder in there to cut off the bolts (if they are stuck), or do you need a smaller air cut off wheel? The rear tailpipe flange looks pretty tight.
EDIT: I just realized those "nicks" on the upstream piping was likely due to someone trying to steal my catalytic converter! Leaning towards a full muffler replacement just to simplify things, maybe a Bosal unit due to the bad reviews on the Walker.
Last edited by nobb; 12-24-2019 at 02:52 PM.
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12-24-2019, 02:42 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: NB Cda
Posts: 117
Real Name: Jeff
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Personally I won't touch another walker. Just replaced mine a month ago still under warranty with no receipt thanks to the shop that sourced the purchase date only 11months prior from his supplier! Not too many 20yr old 4runners in my parts.
11months and the insides of muffler were breaking down. I'm a little heavy footed around town but nothing that would cause a failure. My original had 275,000kms on it, walker about 15,000. Whichever way you go, spend a couple extra bucks and find something with a lifetime warranty.
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12-24-2019, 03:37 PM
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#12
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
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I have the NAPA cat back aluminized steel muffler and tail pipe. It’s around 6 years old and doing great yet. I am very happy with it.
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12-24-2019, 03:54 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Yukon
Posts: 1,317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed_C
When I replaced my OEM main muffler section the hardware was way too rusty to save, went through like 4 Diablo sawzall blades to get those damn things off.
Was this the Walker Quiet Flow? I run the main muffler section (stock tailpipe was still good) and found it very close to stock sound volume-wise, not annoying at all. I do agree the OEM was nicer in quality, smoother bends, cleaner welds, etc. It's been 6 or 7 years and the outlet pipe broke off this year, still driving around with no tailpipe (somewhat annoying) until I can bring it to a friend's shop to replace.
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Angle grinder makes quick work of the exhaust bolts. There is room to get at it.
Yes, walker quiet flow SS but it is a different part number for the 3rz with smaller pipe. The noise difference is not great, initially I liked it around town for a bit more shifting gears growl. After putting about 9000km on it I find it a bit annoying at highway rpms. I'd like to have a stock one back on.
It hasn't been through a winter yet as it is in Arizona at the moment but already some surface rust on the main can. Pipe seems OK so far. Time will tell.
__________________
-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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