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Old 12-29-2019, 07:22 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkzg View Post
Tbelt job is simple. Lining it all up is straight forward to the lines on the new tbelt with the makers in the engine.

Note to put it at top dead center before pulling off the old one, and make sure the the cam and crank are on the timing marks. That will make the reinstallation of the new belt simple.

Just did this twice on mine...took me 2hrs start to finish. First time I did it, the crank seal was aftermarket and so it started leaking right away, Redid it with oem crank seal a week later and itís all dry!



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I find two hours very hard to believe.
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Old 12-29-2019, 07:40 PM #17
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Originally Posted by APhelps View Post
I find two hours very hard to believe.
I also find it hard to believe. I know I'm not the fastest mechanic but I'm not the slowest either. There's no way I could pull off this job in 2 hours and guarantee I didn't make a mistake and screw something up. Hell, doing a thorough job of cleaning off the surface for the new water pump alone takes around 15-20 minutes. Either this guy is really freaking good at turning wrenches or he hasn't exactly spoken the truth on how long it took.
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Old 12-29-2019, 10:46 PM #18
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I also find it hard to believe. I know I'm not the fastest mechanic but I'm not the slowest either. There's no way I could pull off this job in 2 hours and guarantee I didn't make a mistake and screw something up. Hell, doing a thorough job of cleaning off the surface for the new water pump alone takes around 15-20 minutes. Either this guy is really freaking good at turning wrenches or he hasn't exactly spoken the truth on how long it took.
I suppose there's a few things one could do to "shave time" off.

1) Not having skids on.
2) breaking your top cover so you don't have to put the top radatior hose off and you can just remove it.
3) No A/C belt

The work isn't incredibly hard but draining the coolant and filling the coolant alone is going to take like 15-30 minutes.

Also I typically will cycle the engine multiple times (5+) to make sure the timing belt hasn't skipped a tooth or etc when setting the tensioner.

I'd imagine if you do nothing with the water pump and coolant then you can shorten the work up quite a bit and it would only make sense to do so if you've just replaced the water pump and need to replace a cam or crank seal.
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Old 12-31-2019, 11:48 AM #19
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Actually they do. When you look in the factory service manual that discusses the timing belt job, you will see an overall parts schematic and the crank pulley bolt with have a solid black colored diamond next to it. When you look at the legend of symbols at the bottom of the page, an item denoted with a solid black colored diamond means it's a "Non-Reusable Part".
Tim do you have the part number for the crank pully bolt? I can't seem to find it. Thanks
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Old 12-31-2019, 02:29 PM #20
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Tim do you have the part number for the crank pully bolt? I can't seem to find it. Thanks
The part number and link was right there in the video description. With all our videos, we put helpful information like this in the video descriptions and pinned comments. Always check both of those because we put lots of good stuff in them like the parts links, tool links, torque specs, and updates on the repair as we learn more as time has passed.

*Crank Pulley Bolt #90119-16006
https://amzn.to/2pIZf5q
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Old 01-04-2020, 10:39 PM #21
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I put this together a long time ago, it will be updated on my second go around at 180K, I have 8,000 more miles to go:

Timing Belt and Water-Pump Replacement
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Old 01-07-2020, 12:45 AM #22
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Takes me about 2 hours and 2 movie tickets just to get the AC bracket off to change the tensioner.

2 hours is cruising.

The movie tickets are to get the kids out of the house so I can swear as loud as I want.
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Old 01-07-2020, 12:18 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by negusm View Post
Takes me about 2 hours and 2 movie tickets just to get the AC bracket off to change the tensioner.

2 hours is cruising.

The movie tickets are to get the kids out of the house so I can swear as loud as I want.

You only have to do that once. When you get the bracket off, hold it in place and look at where the underside of the bracket gets in the way of putting a socket on an extension between the oil pan lip and the bracket and onto the back tensioner bolt. Then grind out half moon areas of the two webbing areas that are in the way. You don't have to grind much, maybe 1/4". Then paint and install.

[IMG][/IMG]



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Old 01-07-2020, 04:14 PM #24
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Also there are two different designs for the crank bolt and two different torque specs depending on the year. I cant speak for all combinations but I've got an old style bolt on my 2000 and I have it torqued to the higher spec. The information is fuzzy but i believe toyota changed design in 2000. One has a washer and one Is a solid bolt with basically a washer it just doesnt flop around. Toyota ordered me the old style bolt of course and I couldnt wait at the time so I used it. It came with some green loctite I put on some additional blue and torqued her down. That was something around 8k miles ago I'd say. Bottom line, I spent hours researching to see if the bolt mattered blah blah blah old style vs new style bolt, long story short (once again in my experience) it doesnt matter what bolt you get. 5vz crankbolt is a darn 5vz crank bolt (edit: as long as the bolt Is from toyota and not aftermarket lol)
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Old 01-17-2020, 10:49 AM #25
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I'm gonna post this on the 4sale page too but if you haven't bought the kit off ebay yet I bought the exact one recommended with intentions to install it myself but just never got up the courage to go for it.

Mine's for sale. I'll accept a reasonable offer.
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