View Poll Results: Paid $8,200
Good Deal 11 78.57%
Good Deal
11 78.57%
Bad Deal 3 21.43%
Bad Deal
3 21.43%
Voters: 14. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 12-31-2019, 05:29 PM #16
mountain-biker mountain-biker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim View Post
It's a bummer you didn't do a little more research or ask a question on this forum about your steering noise at low speed. It's VERY possible that your power steering reservoir screen is just clogged and starving your rack of fluid. Do yourself of a favor and check out our video for flushing the power steering system and cleaning the reservoir screen. You might be able to forego replacing the rack. If the place that sold it to you won't take it back, you could always sell it for a slight loss or just hang onto it for a time when you actually need it.

For the driveshaft greasing, you want to shoot grease into the u-joints until you see grease squirting out of each bearing cup. For the slip yokes, you can over-grease them which isn't good. If the slip yoke cavity is completely full of grease, under compression of the driveshaft when the suspension compresses, there's no where for that pressure to go. Sometimes, it can blow the plug out of the slip yoke. If you think it's overly greased, take the zerk fitting out and jump up and down on the rear bumper. Cycling the suspension will force excessive grease out of the zerk fitting and then you'll most likely be good to go. Greasing the slip yoke via the zerk fitting isn't very effective because it doesn't really get grease all along the splines to properly lubricate it. An occasional removal of the slip yoke and manual greasing of the male and female splines is better in my opinion. When greasing via the zerk fitting, all the grease is at the bottom of the yoke and doesn't do anything to lubricate the upper part of the splines.
I purchased the steering rack from @Kraze because $500 shipped with outer tie rods brand new OEM is a good deal compared to Camelback Toyota. I will take your advice and do a full power steering flush and reservoir cleaning and go from there (hold onto rack either way).

The truck was on the lift at a shop while the old tires were being balanced and I asked if the slop in the driveshaft was okay. The tech handed me the grease pump and held it to the fitting and told me to keep pumping. I watched as the drive shaft expanded about 2cm. We did this process at multiple points on the drive shaft. The grease was red and thick. I don't think either of us knew what we were doing. I will again take your advice and remove the rear zerk fitting and jump like crazy on the hitch to expel some grease.
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Old 12-31-2019, 05:36 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reno - 3rd gen View Post
Welcome. For our area, the mileage, and options, I think you got a good deal! I bought my 5 speed 3rd gen SR5 in Mammoth for around $3,500 with 210,000 miles, and i've probably put around 10K into it. My build is a little different, but I did swap a sport hood on, LSD diffs front and rear etc. So I think even though you paid a good deal more upfront, you won't be paying to add more on down the line.

Make sure you add a rear diff breather kit (Marlin Crawler sells them). I blew a rear axle seal on one of my first trail runs due to mud clogging up the stock breather location (There's a few threads on this). Best of luck with your new runner
Thank you for the warm welcome. I opted to spend more upfront as I have limited tools and locations to work on the truck. I monitored the market for over three months and test drove several before arriving at this one. I'm happy to hear your opinion. I have added the rear diff breather kit to my list!

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Old 12-31-2019, 05:46 PM #18
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Originally Posted by APhelps View Post
So I did vote in the poll and personally I'm not a fan of buying a low mileage vehicle that is old. I think people over pay so a vehicle just to have low miles but the reality is the body, seals, springs and etc. have still been sitting for 20+ years. I'd rather pay less, do a bunch of work with new components and basically arrive at the same point. I'm befuddled by the people who pay 20k for a stock 3rd gen 4R with sub 100k miles.

I'd imagine it is a salvaged title since it got hit with somewhat minimal damage and was just totaled out through insurance. Doesn't take much on older cars for this to happen.
The omitted rationale for opting to get a more expensive but lower milage 3rd gen was my lack of tooling and area to wrench at the moment. I was dying to join the club and this one had all the options I was looking for and despite the steep price tag, I went for it. No looking back! I have attached pictures of the damage which led to the salvage title. Frame saw no damage amazingly.









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Old 12-31-2019, 05:52 PM #19
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Certainly in good shape and if it was repaired correctly isn't that bad of a deal. Salvage vehicles just unfortunately always carry a stigma to them.
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Old 12-31-2019, 05:57 PM #20
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Originally Posted by TonyB66 View Post
For the Bay Area, the condition and amount of original miles (quite low), a pretty rare find and worthy of the price paid, IMO.

Enjoy, and best to you and your 3rd gen in the New Year!
Thank you and happy new year to you as well! I am seriously enjoying the truck. I have been to Yosemite, Pismo, Santa Cruz and Rowher Flats so far and camped in it for several nights - it is awesome. A great fit for my lifestyle. The negatives so far have been the MPG and harsher ride than anticipated. I love to MTB and the ability to now drive off-road lets me share elements of the MTB experience with others. Stoked I got this one!!
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Old 12-31-2019, 06:13 PM #21
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I'd have sold a kidney to buy it. Good deal in my opinion!
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Old 12-31-2019, 06:22 PM #22
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Certainly in good shape and if it was repaired correctly isn't that bad of a deal. Salvage vehicles just unfortunately always carry a stigma to them.
The salvage title stigma is unfortunate but only becomes apparent when trying to sell it. I don't have any plans to sell but I imagine putting many miles on after the damage would read to buyers that it has been repaired properly. I have attached a picture from when I had first bought it before making any modifications. I have since swapped the wheels but the front end still needs work. The grille will not accept any Toyota emblem I can find so I can only imagine it's a poorly mocked aftermarket piece. The grille filler panels have holes (for mounting LED lights). The plate on the bottom left of the bumper is missing. A cheap black pad is on the top of the bumper.

My solution: A can of color matched spray paint with clear coat. Order a replacement grille and emblem. Scuff the grille, add adhesion promoter, a layer of black, mask black areas then spray green. Remove the mask and clear coat. Add emblem. Spray filler panels. Remove black pad (How TBD). Order PN#53925-35020-G0 from Camelback Toyota. Assemble and back to factory look! The bumper grille should be black but I'm okay leaving it sprayed green.



P.S. Forgot to mention front windshield was cracked when I purchased, that was replaced before this photo.

Last edited by mountain-biker; 01-01-2020 at 01:08 AM.
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Old 01-01-2020, 12:15 AM #23
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I would say you got a good deal for our area. Everything is more expensive here, so when someone tells you it's only worth 2500 and they just got one for 2000, it's cause they live in another state, and it's probably full of rust.

What part of the bay area are you at?
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Old 01-01-2020, 12:48 AM #24
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I'd have sold a kidney to buy it. Good deal in my opinion!
Awesome. Should I find myself in the market I have an excellent trade for you!
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