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Old 01-05-2020, 02:39 PM #16
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Thank god for harbor freight. The harbor freight bearing seperator kit took a beating and held up solid.. Lol.. Definite buy. Harbor freight 20ton press for the win, definite buy and every frozen rusted removal process requires propane torch sooner or later. This job is taking longer then i though, but hell i got time.

Job would have lot easier if the hub, bearing were like 2003 up model where theres only 4 bolts loosen pull out and put on new built ready to go hub, bearing assembly.

Any ideas for taking out a stuck hard ass steel snap ring on bearing housing. Snap rings ear broke off the ring, screwdriver push didnt do shit.
Any special tools, easy way technique.??

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Old 01-05-2020, 03:55 PM #17
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Snap ring looks partially out. IIRC when you press the hub out it puts more pressure on the snap ring. You could try pushing the wheel bearing back down and seeing if the snap ring is easier to pull how.

A flathead and a hammer to wedge it under should be able to at least hack it out under normal circumstances.

Get new ones to go back in. Those likely can't be resued after you get them out

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Old 01-05-2020, 06:38 PM #18
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Snap ring looks partially out. IIRC when you press the hub out it puts more pressure on the snap ring. You could try pushing the wheel bearing back down and seeing if the snap ring is easier to pull how.
OP, What @STI_MECE said is exactly what you need to do. Go to play time 19:08 in the video below and you'll see how I unloaded the snap ring by pushing the bearing back in to it's fully seated position. By the way, I'm noticing lots of similarities to the tools and techniques you're using to do all this work. I'm assuming you've used some of our videos but I'm guessing you missed our Manual Hub Part 2 video, because if you watched it, you'd know how to get that snap ring out.

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Old 01-05-2020, 06:50 PM #19
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Took me 2 days of heating and soaking to get the snap ring our of my 2002 camry when I redid its front wheel bearings. And I put new snap rings in as they both came out in pieces.

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Old 01-05-2020, 07:32 PM #20
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OP, What @STI_MECE said is exactly what you need to do. Go to play time 19:08 in the video below and you'll see how I unloaded the snap ring by pushing the bearing back in to it's fully seated position. By the way, I'm noticing lots of similarities to the tools and techniques you're using to do all this work. I'm assuming you've used some of our videos but I'm guessing you missed our Manual Hub Part 2 video, because if you watched it, you'd know how to get that snap ring out.


Yup.. Been watching your video for a while since i acquired the high mile 4runner. Youre right, miss the part on pressing bearing back to release the snap ring tension. Will try again.
Also watched eric the car guy finally give up on a 2005 Toyota 4runner and put in new hub, bearing kit. He actually showed all the different ways he treid and all failed..

Btw.. Where did you get those thick steel plates, cost and link?? I need some of those.

Theres very little support place under the knuckle for hub to press out.

Still need to hit the steering rack bushing while i am there.

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Old 01-05-2020, 08:36 PM #21
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Yup.. Been watching your video for a while since i acquired the high mile 4runner. Youre right, miss the part on pressing bearing back to release the snap ring tension. Will try again.
Also watched eric the car guy finally give up on a 2005 Toyota 4runner and put in new hub, bearing kit. He actually showed all the different ways he treid and all failed..

Btw.. Where did you get those thick steel plates, cost and link?? I need some of those.

Theres very little support place under the knuckle for hub to press out.

Still need to hit the steering rack bushing while i am there.

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For the Manual Hub Conversion Part 1 video, check the comment I pinned. 2 of the plates, as you know, came with the Harbor Freight press. The other 2 black ones I got at a fabrication shop. I just had them cut off a couple plates from stock they had on hand. The 2 gold plates came from a kit I bough on Amazon. The link to those plates I bought from Amazon is in that pinned comment, along with links to all the other tools we used for the job, including that special 4 pin lock ring tool you were asking about earlier in this thread.

Since it sounds like you might be using more of our videos, always check the video description and any comment pinned by us because there will be helpful information in both spots. You're not alone with missing these areas of information on our videos. Lots of people ask questions that could have been answered if they checked either of those two spots.
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Old 01-05-2020, 09:17 PM #22
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thanks tim for all your help and those great youtube videos...keep up the good work. Helps us normal guys from getting hosed with mechanics and dealers, even thought it tuff and long time consuming. I am learning new things as I do more stuff to my cars. Mechanic and dealers were saying, put new parts, control arms, hubs housing, bearings and even new upper, lower control arms to point of just costing $$$ more then what cars worth and their labor rate is crazy $$$.
I did similar stuff to my seinna van and after replacing, most front end parts myself, then van has solid feel and comfort ride. Its heavy front end car and tears the front end fast, most parts need replacing sooner or later. I got tired of paying $50 each wheel to machine shop for bearing job. so for this project, decided to bite bullet and buy things I need for long term needs for DIY projects.

thanks to all the forum guys for help, learning more as I go along. Never too old to learn new things and challenges.
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Old 01-05-2020, 10:37 PM #23
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thanks tim for all your help and those great youtube videos...keep up the good work. Helps us normal guys from getting hosed with mechanics and dealers, even thought it tuff and long time consuming. I am learning new things as I do more stuff to my cars. Mechanic and dealers were saying, put new parts, control arms, hubs housing, bearings and even new upper, lower control arms to point of just costing $$$ more then what cars worth and their labor rate is crazy $$$.
I did similar stuff to my seinna van and after replacing, most front end parts myself, then van has solid feel and comfort ride. Its heavy front end car and tears the front end fast, most parts need replacing sooner or later. I got tired of paying $50 each wheel to machine shop for bearing job. so for this project, decided to bite bullet and buy things I need for long term needs for DIY projects.

thanks to all the forum guys for help, learning more as I go along. Never too old to learn new things and challenges.
You're very welcome. I love hearing how our videos have saved people from paying high labor rates at shops. My local Toyota dealer now charges $200/hour and they have a line of cars waiting to get into their service department all the time. I just visit the parts department which has great people working there. I established a good a rapport with them over the years and now I get their wholesale price on parts rather than paying retail. They all know I run a YouTube channel. I still order stuff online but it's nice to get a good price on parts when I need them right now.

Yeah, having the right tools for the job is a big part of being a successful DIY mechanic. I've used my Harbor Freight 20 ton press and press sleeve kit for tons of jobs. They paid for themselves many many times over.

Happy Wrenching! Hope the rest of your work goes smooth.
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Old 01-05-2020, 11:24 PM #24
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Btw.. Where did you get those thick steel plates, cost and link?? I need some of those.

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Check eBay for steel bar 4"x12" 1/2inch thick A36

That was pretty easy to acquire online. The shipping kills you because of the weight. Density of steel is 485 lb/ft^3.

Find a steel mill around you if can. That will be your cheapest option. I got the above size locally, 2 pieces for 25 bucks out the door.

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Old 01-06-2020, 01:31 AM #25
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Well you guys were right again.. Pressed the bearing back and i was able to move the snap ring around.. Got cheap $4 harbor freight mini pick set from long time ago and hammer it to get it out, screwdriver help to take it out rest of way..
Got to order the big size gearwrench pick sets from amazon, useful when you need it.

Pressed bearing out no problem once i got the steel plate under knuckle support, came out nice, not easy but medium effort.

Put upper control arm back in. Waiting on steering rack bushings, bearing snap rings and time to get at it during work week.good thing i enjoy wrenching and fulliment rewards that you accomplished repair without $$$ at shop.

Btw, i got those 2 steel plate from local machine shop, all he had in scraps. $5 cost. Got to find big nice ones like in Tim's youtube video, from local source if cheap.. No rush now, but be ready next time.


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Old 01-06-2020, 11:12 AM #26
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Great job. Rust free porn again. Be very grateful you dont have to deal rust belt chrome.

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Old 01-06-2020, 12:25 PM #27
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Btw.. Where did you get those thick steel plates, cost and link?? I need some of those.
I bought several plates from the local welding shop. they have a ton of metal stock. I just walked in, pointed to the bar stocks I wanted and said how long and they cut them to request on the spot.
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Old 01-11-2020, 08:58 PM #28
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Well i put on the new bearing and everything went ok.. Went lot easier then taking it off. Went and got new outter tie rods from dealer was only $57. Got Beck Arnold steering rack boots too and bands from Amazon. There cheap and worked good in my other car also.
Once you do one side, other side is easy. Only thing i didnt replace was inner tie rod, too much. $$ and besides was ok. More pics later when i finish as time permits.

Went to dealer to compare new lower balljoints stiffness and were about same.. Guess they are not that stiff when new like the upper ball joint. And there's a youtube video of moog 200 miles only bad to toyota new LBJ. and its same as mine, not that stiff either.

https://youtu.be/YzbOovJYrRs



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Old 02-17-2020, 12:41 AM #29
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well.. I finished this project front end overhaul and its working out great. Been putting on miles and testing out the suv for a while and report no problems, feels solid, rides great. Finished putting everything back up, camber bolts lined back up to original marks as best I can, and new outer tie rods with right amount of turn marks. Then test rode and its pretty straight but pulls to one side.

went to firestone for lifetime wheel alignment and they did job best as they can, all within the green specs. They didn;t even move any of the camber bolt adjustment, it was more like a slap and go job, didn;t feel like they were qualified or cared about repairs, as I turned down all the upsell tactics.

once you do one side, other side goes faster. Hard parts were the squeezing in the side flat washers in the LCA with whileline bushings. Took couple of tries and pry bars to align it all... The other hard part was pressing out the hub even with the 20 ton press. The other stuff like bushing jobs were easy, pressing bearings in wasn;t hard.

The harbor freight 20 ton press and the amazon bushing cups sets came in real handy, plus the harbor freight bearing separator set. And my OTC ball joint removal set.

the 4runner rides great and more solid feel. Next up is valve cover gasket, rear shocks and chasing a 420 code.







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