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Old 01-02-2020, 06:25 PM #16
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One other thing to add beyond what people have suggested is it might be a cracked exhaust manifold. Cracked exhaust manifolds typically don't start making noise until they warm up and the crack becomes more open. I highly recommend getting a mechanic's stethoscope. Keep in mind with a mechanic's stethoscope everything will be much much louder than what you hear without them. You can also try taking an inspection mirror and a flashlight and looking for any black spots on your exhaust manifolds. The black spot is where it is cracked if you do find that.
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Old 01-02-2020, 06:41 PM #17
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After listening to the video clip you provided and your comment that it is much less noticeable when the engine is cold leads me to think it is valve train noise, most likely lifters that need adjustment.
If it were a loose spark plug I would think the sound would be consistent regardless if the engine is cold, warm or hot.
I agree with previous comments regarding an engine knock being a deeper and different sound.
I also agree it does not sound like a cracked flex plate.
As far as the S2000, regrettably sold mine a few years back. I had purchased it new in 01 and sold it with just barely 24K miles......man I loved that car!
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Old 01-02-2020, 07:39 PM #18
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Valve disk adjustment can be done in car there is a tool that allows you to compress the valve to remove the shim with out dis assembling the head. This a fairly complex job. As you have to measure the gap with the engine cold after removing the valve covers measure each valve, Remove the shim and decide what shim you need each shim is about 8 dollars. So the car is down while you have to wait for the right size shim. When the right shims come install recheck if in spec. reassemble and you should be good to go. If you get the measurement wrong then you have to reorder the shim. Some thing you could do is try changing oil to a oil like 10-30w while this not ideal it may quiet the lifter noise.
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Old 01-02-2020, 08:41 PM #19
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I will check spark plugs once I get a non-rainy day where I'm home during daylight. After more driving and pondering, I'm thinking that's not it though. Spark plugs loose sound more tractor like and get significantly louder with higher load. This one does not sound quite like that. I'm thinking that's not it but I'll check. I also grabbed a stethoscope to check around. Valve ticking may still be it but I'm just surprised with how it came on. It had always ticked a little bit but got significantly louder very quickly. I wouldn't have expected tightening valves to behave like that but I could be wrong. I'm also not the kind of guy to fill it with heavier weight oil or marvel mystery to make the noise go away. I want to be able to drive the truck without worrying about it breaking. I won't rule out injectors but I really don't know what they'd sound like. If it were injectors or something in the fuel system, need I worry about a cylinder running lean? Wouldn't a CEL throw for that?

I'm thinking cracked manifold may be more likely than I had expected, especially with what Bad Luck described above. I guess the good news there is that it's not mission critical but will get really annoying over time. The PO did tip me off about an exhaust leak that had been patched or something after I had already signed the paperwork for this thing. Maybe it's finally showing after my 4 year tenure. How bad of a job is it to replace a manifold on these things? I've heard something about the cross-pipe being really difficult because it routes over the trans and needs to drop the trans to get out. Is either of the manifolds in the same category as that?

I called my mechanic today but didn't answer. He may be off still for New Years. I've taken my s2000 in there a few times and the guy knows his stuff, is honest, and does good work. Problem is he isn't always quick to turn things around as most his business is second cars. With this as my daily, it poses a bit of a challenge. I just don't want to take it to a run-of-the-mill shop to do a diagnosis like this. They seem more apt to replacing stuff til the problem goes away as opposed to actually diagnosing the problem. Also, I don't trust a chain store or gas station repair place to change a flex plate/exhaust manifold/valve adjust.

Last edited by Jubsz; 01-02-2020 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 01-02-2020, 10:01 PM #20
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The tip on the oil was to prove its engine wear. It's not a fix. It's just used to diagnose wear in your valve train. If thicker oil changes the noise. Then you have some wear. Then you drain it out next oil change or sooner and that be that.

I dont recall anyone saying oil additives are cure as that is being silly. However, if your engine is 3/4 gone. You can use these additives to get oil consumption to slow and keep and engine running until its replaced or repaired properly.

I do know some people have done thicker oil or additives to slow their oil leaks down until they have had time replace the leaking seals. That's very common in the rust belt in winter as not everyone can work on their vehicles in garages or inside during the cold freezing weather months.

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Old 01-02-2020, 11:40 PM #21
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Go to page 238 of the owners manual you find this about motor oil for the 5vz-fe. 10w-30 can be used but extreme cold weather may make starting difficult. If you want to narrow down the location of the noise use a stethoscope or a solid metal like bar, pipe or pry bar put your ear against it and move it around to find out where the noise is coming from. As far as leaving the oil in if it were me I would not have a problem driving it with the heavier oil. It can buy you some time to decide what to do, if the oil makes it quieter than good if it does not the gap maybe to large if it's a valve lash issue to help quite down. If it does quite you still have a lash issue. The only way to know for sure if the gap is excessive is to measure the gap.







SAE 5W- 30 is the best choice for your
vehicle, for good fuel economy and
good starting in cold weather.
If you use SAE 10W- 30 engine oil in
extremely low temperatures, the engine
may become difficult to start, so SAE
5W- 30 engine oil is recommended.

Last edited by plcfcng; 01-02-2020 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 01-02-2020, 11:40 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubsz View Post
I will check spark plugs once I get a non-rainy day where I'm home during daylight. After more driving and pondering, I'm thinking that's not it though. Spark plugs loose sound more tractor like and get significantly louder with higher load. This one does not sound quite like that. I'm thinking that's not it but I'll check. I also grabbed a stethoscope to check around. Valve ticking may still be it but I'm just surprised with how it came on. It had always ticked a little bit but got significantly louder very quickly. I wouldn't have expected tightening valves to behave like that but I could be wrong. I'm also not the kind of guy to fill it with heavier weight oil or marvel mystery to make the noise go away. I want to be able to drive the truck without worrying about it breaking. I won't rule out injectors but I really don't know what they'd sound like. If it were injectors or something in the fuel system, need I worry about a cylinder running lean? Wouldn't a CEL throw for that?

I'm thinking cracked manifold may be more likely than I had expected, especially with what Bad Luck described above. I guess the good news there is that it's not mission critical but will get really annoying over time. The PO did tip me off about an exhaust leak that had been patched or something after I had already signed the paperwork for this thing. Maybe it's finally showing after my 4 year tenure. How bad of a job is it to replace a manifold on these things? I've heard something about the cross-pipe being really difficult because it routes over the trans and needs to drop the trans to get out. Is either of the manifolds in the same category as that?

I called my mechanic today but didn't answer. He may be off still for New Years. I've taken my s2000 in there a few times and the guy knows his stuff, is honest, and does good work. Problem is he isn't always quick to turn things around as most his business is second cars. With this as my daily, it poses a bit of a challenge. I just don't want to take it to a run-of-the-mill shop to do a diagnosis like this. They seem more apt to replacing stuff til the problem goes away as opposed to actually diagnosing the problem. Also, I don't trust a chain store or gas station repair place to change a flex plate/exhaust manifold/valve adjust.
That's good to note about the exhaust leak. It may very well be it. In regards to the injector/FPR tick, it's not a malfuctioning injector or FPR that would cause the noise, just age. It's an annoyance if you do have a loud injector but it works just fine and would not need to be replaced.

It seems though you and I are alike and that when you get one of these little issues it's not going to be ignored. Every time I get a new noise in my engine or a new rattle I see if I can fix it. More often than not it can be without too much work. Although, replacing an exhaust manifold while still in the engine bay isn't child's play. Need the right sockets & extensions or that gets very frustrating! Takes all of 5 minutes if the engine is out though.
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Old 01-03-2020, 12:50 AM #23
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5vzfe is kinda known for a “Toyota Tap noise”. If your oil and coolant are clean. No smoke or misfire. I wouldn’t worry. Again, if you google “Toyota tap noise.” Lots is topics on it.
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Old 01-03-2020, 01:30 AM #24
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When looking for a exhaust leak using a piece of heater hose or any other hose works great.
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Old 01-03-2020, 04:00 PM #25
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Grabbed a stethoscope and did some prodding. Significantly more noise, including ticking from the passenger side VC. Placing the stethoscope on the fuel rail also made more noise and some of the tick was present. I'm having a hard time isolating it, and having never listened to a fuel rail before, I can't tell if that's it. From the VC and head casting itself, I can hear significantly more ticking from the passenger side than driver side. I am feeling like valvetrain is my answer but am not completely sure.

The ground was wet so I didn't get under and listen for my flex plate. I did talk to my mechanic and am planning to take it in on Monday. I'm trying to track down a valve cover to use, since I should have that replaced while the valve covers are off. I realized the 99+ valve covers are apparently different than the older ones. Is it just the fin design or are the internals and/or some of the holes/mounting points on the outside different? Does it makes sense that valve ticking would get louder as the engine warms up?
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Old 01-03-2020, 04:19 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubsz View Post
I'm trying to track down a valve cover to use, since I should have that replaced while the valve covers are off. I realized the 99+ valve covers are apparently different than the older ones. Is it just the fin design or are the internals and/or some of the holes/mounting points on the outside different? Does it makes sense that valve ticking would get louder as the engine warms up?
I would go with OEM Toyota valve cover gaskets. No need to replace the valve cover itself unless cracked, just the gasket once you remove the valve cover to adjust the lifters/shims.
As the engine warms up and reaches normal operating temperature the oil becomes a bit thinner than when you first start the engine and the oil is cold. Not unusual for the valve train and specifically the lifters to get a bit noisier once the oil is hot.
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Old 01-03-2020, 11:41 PM #27
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I would still try changing the oil to a high quality synthetic (better wear properties & helps reduce valve train noise) or switching to 10W-30. That way you'll know for sure if it's a noise valve/shim or fuel related.

I forgot to mention, try running an injector cleaner like Royal Purple's Max Atomizer through the gas tank. It's helped my injectors quiet down in the past and smooth the idle out. Can do that instead of an oil change to isolate if it's fuel related or not. Costs $8.
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Old 01-05-2020, 11:00 AM #28
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It seems like you've moved past the notion of it being a manifold like I mentioned on page one however one general thing I would bring up Is soapy water and some manifold puddy. Jb weld makes a patch kit that works well, plenty of products out there for that issue. Soapy water on a cold manifold obviously not a hot one that's up to temp will blow bubbles where the air escapes
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Old 01-06-2020, 06:55 PM #29
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Mechanic diagnosed it as fuel injector tick. Truck will be getting some much needed love such as timing belt, water pump, a new valve cover (old one cracked), VC gaskets, new plugs.

S2000 has been brought out of hibernation for the week, at least. Wearing snow tires, snow possible in Tuesday's forecast. I'm hoping the snow and salt trucks stay away for at least another week.
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Old 01-06-2020, 07:50 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubsz View Post
Mechanic diagnosed it as fuel injector tick. Truck will be getting some much needed love such as timing belt, water pump, a new valve cover (old one cracked), VC gaskets, new plugs.



S2000 has been brought out of hibernation for the week, at least. Wearing snow tires, snow possible in Tuesday's forecast. I'm hoping the snow and salt trucks stay away for at least another week.
Oh the valve cover itself is cracked. That would make it alot louder. I thought it was a valve tapping more then injector.

Bummer having to pull the ather ride out of hibernation.

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