. I know people say they're slow... But this just seems mega sloooow, even for a 3rd gen v6. I feel like she is slower now than when I first got her. I was really impressed with the acceleration originally.

VID_20200104_172411.mp4 - Google Drive

Thoughts? This is the peddle to the floor, throttle cable tightened (but not super snug). No cargo, just me as weight.

No codes. No rough running, no stutter or anything. Just slow haha.

2000, SR5, 4x4.

Retried the link, does this work?

You've got the video on your drive which requires permission to see. Try *****ute.com or YouTube.

Edit: Hahaha... the forum automagically takes out swear words. I guess they haven't figured out how to make bit.c.hute.com (take out the "." on both sides of the 'c') show up because it has the word bit.c.h. in it. Too funny!

Shit I thought I used the right link type. Let me try something else

How about now?

Probably too slow to outrun the GBI or local fuzz.

But if you have the Need For Speed, sell the 3rd gen 4Runner soon.

No I don't mean that... Every other video I've seen of a 3rd gen doing a 0-60 run is obviously much quicker. The sound of the engine alone is vastly different in terms of the sound of acceleration and revving.

Based off the video your zero to 60 time is around 13 to 14 seconds. From my experience that's pretty par. Or at least for me at 6k feet. My bone stock 3rd gen with 238k miles runs a 13.5 0 to 60 and my built 3rd on 35s and supercharged runs around 12.5. Does seem like it takes longer than I'd expect to run through the rev range.

Do a compression test before anything. That will give you an idea of the general health of your motor. If that checks out could be a clogged/burnt up cat, old plugs, clogged injectors, vales out of adjustment, all basic things but can have a pretty significant effect. Also was the timing belt done recently? If it was installed wrong your cams could be advanced or retarded which depending on which way they are could cause a significant loss of power and acceleration

"Does seem like it takes longer than I'd expect to run through the rev rangex

Yes this is exactly what I thought! I just could not think of how to explain it... The timing belt was changed before I purchased the truck, I'll start with compression and then check the timing.

Is there a write up on a compression test?

Not one that I know of but it's pretty simple. Pull all 6 plugs and the efi fuse. The tester has a hose that screws into the plug hole one cylinder at a time. Have someone watch the gauge and crank the motor over for a few seconds with the throttle to the floor. Crank untill the gauge stops going up basically. Repeat that on all other cylinders making sure to record all the pressure readings. You want these to be within 5 to 10psi of each other on each cylinder. The consistency is the biggest thing because that tells you if you've got a cylinder on its way out. I think factory spec is 140 to 180psi.

After you do all 6 cylinders put a few drops of oil in a couple cylinders and see if the compression comes up significantly that will tell you if your piston rings are worn in that cylinder.

To check the cam timing you have to pull the black plastic cover at the top of the motor back a little then spin the crank over clockwise with a 19mm untill the little tick on the crank pulley lines up with the 0 mark on the plastic indicator that's on the upper driverside if the pulley. If all is good the tick marks on the cam pulleys will be lined up with the tickmarks on the sheetmetal cover behind the pulleys, basically pointed straight up.

From a Motorcycle perspective (smaller cylinders, higher compression) ~ the oil-in-cylinder thing has been thoroughly debunked as it simply decreases compression space and will raise readings in all but the absolute worse of cases. Even doing it sparingly, a half-second of "fogger" spray, is enough to change results on "good" cylinders. Remember, you'd adding a non-compressible liquid into a sealed chamber.

Tested this by doing it back to back with an honest leak-down setup on the same engine/cylinders. Didn't matter who was doing the test, what engine (though they were all motorcycle), or where in the world they were located.

Bigger cylinders will probably mean less impact, but it's not really much of a test. I guess if you were EXACT with the oil in every cylinder and saw a larger percentage increase in one... Not going Hurt anything though, just don't use those results to justify anything more than getting the Right tool (leakdown tester).

OP, do have your battery on a charger while doing this. You'll only need to crank a couple seconds per cylinder, but it's still incredibly taxing on the battery and every little bit helps.

Alright got it... Compression test and don't worry about the oil thing... Haha.