So, did my rear axle seals and then needed to deal with my rear brakes since the left side got pretty coated. Got both sides done and then started to bleed and since it was late and was trying to get my girlfriend back inside to make dinner, I was moving too fast and let the master cylinder get too low and likely suck in some air. Damnit! So, time to bleed that and then bleed the brakes, again.

I've read a hundred forum posts, here and elsewhere, watched the videos and it seems like everyone has a slightly different process and I'm sure I'll get them even on this post. Looking for some confirmation that I'm doing this right because I just wanna drive my damn rig, especially after dealing with the rear axle seals. Again, 2000 limited, all stock.

1. Bleed MC under the hood. I'm grabbing a dorman kit from autozone and going to bleed them. I've read to do one line at a time and I've read to do them both at once. My plan was to do both lines at once. I'm just nervous that once you pull the plastic plugs, air goes back into the MC. I shouldn't need KEY ON at this point, right? Just have the lines feeding back into the MC and pump the pedal until bubbles stop happening. Put lines back in and top off MC.

2. Now, I should turn KEY ON and bleed furthest to closest. Rear passenger, rear driver, etc. I'm having the girlfriend pump and hold and then I crack plug to let air/fluid out and then close it once it stops moving. I'm using a clear fuel line I have so I can see what's going on.


Anything I'm doing wrong here? I don't have the time or patience to order a pressure bleeder

Actually try and bleed with the engine running. But if you ran the MC dry, you may want to remove the MC and bench bleed it if you still have no success .

I replaced the brake lines a couple months ago on my '99. I come from a motorcycle background so it's Vastly different, but on my cars I've always followed the old way of "furthest wheel first" and one at a time so I did that this time too. Had no clue about the key-on thing so I didn't do it that way. Actually, I do it 1-man with a vacuum pump anyway, and it worked just fine.


I'd just like to point out that your next-to-last step ought to be going for a drive and locking up the wheels on a gravel road to get the ABS pump to cycle. Then bleed one more time. I had a small improvement, others have mentioned a MAJOR improvement with that step.

The non electric motor style MC the ones on 2000 and older are small so keep an eye on the level and have plenty brake fluid on hand. That being said bleeding the system with the engine running is important to remove air because the extra force from the master cylinder diaphragm helps to get the air moved from the lines while doing the actual bleeding start at the back passenger side move back driver. Then move to passenger front to the driver front. You can bleed the master cylinder on the car if you disconnect the lines but you need some one depressing the pedals also be sure capture and clean away all brake fluid that get on painted surfaces quicklly. You can stop the engine when your not actively depressing the pedal and opening the bleeder screw ( two person job working in tandem).

Thanks for the help everyone. I did the MC bleed without too much hassle. I can see how just bench bleeding it might be easier, but I did end up leaving it attached, doing one at a time.

Then I went back and did the bleed, but unfortunately, did it with the car off because my girlfriend can't yell apparently, lol. So I just had her turn it off so we could communicate enough to bleed the damn brakes.

They do seem to be working, mostly. I think on the next dry day, I might set up a hose/bottle setup and do it solo, with the engine running and after lighting up the ABS in the alley.

Thanks for the help. It's road worthy for now, so I'm stoked!