[MudbogPete]

I am checking out this SUPER clean 1997 100K mile, SR5, V6 auto 4 runner. Perfect factory paint, clean as new interior, optioned out to the maxx !! .......

Everything seems to check out except the 4 wheel drive is hard to engage. It did go into low range but I can't really tell if the wheels are in fact truly engaged.

The owner is super, SUPER picky about this truck and pissed off that I was even test driving his truck .....


Everything else on the truck is like brand new.... even the under neath is shiney clean. Car Fax checks out. The guy settled on $10,000, but I think he is regretting selling it so cheap and seems intent on getting me to back out of the deal.

......question is: Do you think it is a safe assumption to say the 4WD is working good, or should I risk the chance in totally pissing the guy off and killing the deal ?

(he really is a hot head)

[Sac State]

If he has such a bad temper, image what he has done behind the wheel. Maybe the vehicle has experienced road rage driving more than once. It is sometimes difficult to engage 4Lo and back to 4H. The gyros/gears sometime grinds, but otherwise it is functional. I would not be timid about asking your questions, it is your $10K you are spending. Maybe the hot head act is to not have you feel comfortable to ask questions and he is trying to slide something by you? This isn't the only Runner made. If you don't ask, you won't know.

[Thai]

Well, to see if LO range works, you will notice more torque when you put your foot on the gas pedal.

To see if you're actually in 4wd, try making a turn on dry land while in 4wd...you should hear/feel some drivetrain binding. This is good because it proves that the front and rear axles are locked together. (Remember, in '97, 4runners canNOT be in 4wd on dry road.)

Also, your steering should be a bit harder/firmer when you steer.

Good luck with the pissy owner.

[MudbogPete]

Originally posted by Thai
Well, to see if LO range works, you will notice more torque when you put your foot on the gas pedal.

To see if you're actually in 4wd, try making a turn on dry land while in 4wd...you should hear/feel some drivetrain binding. This is good because it proves that the front and rear axles are locked together. (Remember, in '97, 4runners canNOT be in 4wd on dry road.)

Also, your steering should be a bit harder/firmer when you steer.

Good luck with the pissy owner.

Thank you guys for your input.

I am thinking that the 4WD is pretty bulletproof on the Toyotas and I am probably worrying about nothing.

The owner is very fanatical about his truck and almost yelled because I ran over a mud puddle during the test drive.

After I put down a deposit, he was offered $500 more than I am giving him........I think that is part of his problem.

I don't like dealing with hot heads like that.

I will update if I get it. !!

[MudbogPete]

GOT IT !!


The guy was a lot nicer this time around and let me check it out all the way. Everything works, and that low range even with the automatic is awesome.

It is pretty bouncy and has 100,000 miles on the original struts. I think that will be the first thing to be looked into, but other than that, it is very clean and original.

[Thai]

Congrats...as for the shocks, i would advice you to get OEM/FACTORY shocks instead of upgrading to aftermarket shocks. Ride is much better on factory shocks...the only aftermarket shocks that come close to providing a compliant ride comparable to factory shocks are the Monroe shocks. Bilsteins will stiffen up the ride.

Welcome to the forum!

BTW, here is the thread on Bilstein vs. OEM shock:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...=&threadid=343

[MudbogPete]

Originally posted by Thai
Congrats...as for the shocks, i would advice you to get OEM/FACTORY shocks instead of upgrading to aftermarket shocks. Ride is much better on factory shocks...the only aftermarket shocks that come close to providing a compliant ride comparable to factory shocks are the Monroe shocks. Bilsteins will stiffen up the ride.

Welcome to the forum!

BTW, here is the thread on Bilstein vs. OEM shock:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...=&threadid=343

Thanks for the link.

I know from an earlier Toy 4x4 that I installed Rancho RS5000s on, making the wrong shock absorber choice can beat you up for years to come.

Lots of good info here, thanks!

[brillo_76]

This the oldest post listed in the forum(unlocked). So I will forever hold the award for reviving the oldest post revived. :/ (08-05-2003 12:17 PM) [19 years old yesterday]


This is actually an interesting topic as the 3rd gen had several modes of 4wd along with AWD options. The Standard J shift transfer was the most common manual transfer. As it was all manual except for the vacuum actuator on the front diff (1996-2000). The early limited had 2 position transfer with a button 4wd actuator to put the transfer in 4wd. Then you have the later (2001 and 2002) with Vehicle Stability Control option with the 2 position in the higher trims. The later models (2001 and 2002 went to a electric actuator on the front dif instead of a vacuum based one as they were switching to a more digital controls across the entire vehicle.


If ever purchasing 3rd gen 4 runners its always best to verify everything is working properly with the transfer and transmission along with the engine
sounding normal.

I am just glad the awards are over. As we have some members complaining of people starting threads and the information is already on here. Then we have another group teasing about reviving old threads to continue discussions already posted in the past. (Man is it hard to keep everyone happy.. )

Just remember the reason why we are here to learn and help one another. Share information and methods of doing things which are always opinions. Many times its possible to do things many different ways and ending up with the same end solution. :-)