11-04-2016, 01:50 AM
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#1
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Play in Steering Column?
I have been noticing some play in my steering and was wondering if this was a common issue anyone has experienced before. The steering rack it's self seems fine and I also just installed poly rack bushings so those are 100% brand new.
I also feel like it has some slight noise under the dash or near the floor. I am going to go poke around, but figured I would ask first before spending time trying to diag.
Any input would be great, thanks
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11-04-2016, 08:02 AM
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#2
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Its a pretty common problem for our 4runners and tacomas. You can test it by grabbing the steering column down by the firewall with one hand and moving the steering wheel with the other. If there is a good amount of play that is your problem. There is a great writeup on TTORA Diagnose and fix steering play/rattle That should give you all the info to fix the problem. I did it on my tacoma and it was not hard.
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11-04-2016, 08:14 AM
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#3
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To expand on above, tack weld on the slip joint. 30 min job, massive difference.
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11-04-2016, 09:10 AM
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#4
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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11-04-2016, 09:36 AM
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#5
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Had the same issue. Replaced steering rack & pinion and tie rod ends. Steering is now tighter than a new stock 4Runner.
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11-04-2016, 10:12 AM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCal C4S
Had the same issue. Replaced steering rack & pinion and tie rod ends. Steering is now tighter than a new stock 4Runner.
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That won't fix his loose steering column.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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11-04-2016, 10:49 AM
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#7
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Read it wrong.
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11-04-2016, 10:56 AM
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#8
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There is another possibility here too. This one doesn't get discussed much.
The 96 version has a different intermediate shaft that goes through the fire wall. Different part number than the 97s and up I believe. Mine developed play in the double universal joint through the firewall. I went on a junk yard search for a replacement and I looked at 4 that had slop in them before finding the 5th that was tight. I'm guessing this doesn't affect too many as I never see reference to it here. And I'm guessing it doesn't affect the 97+ part.
Just a FYI.
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11-04-2016, 05:20 PM
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#9
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I still need to get under there and diagnosis but these symptoms match 100%. I am thinking of doing JB Weld instead of actually welding. JB Weld is very strong and be that perfect medium of strength and still collapsing in an accident. This also could possibly done without full disassembly,
Thoughts?
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11-05-2016, 12:35 AM
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#10
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The welding way works, but its a little dangerous as that coloumn is meant to collapse in an accident, the weld may break but because of the tight clearances it will likely bind.
My solution was to smack it with a ball peen on an anvil on two sides to take up the play, that way it should still collapse.
you could also squish it slightly in a hydraulic press...
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05-07-2020, 11:42 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paperjam
The welding way works, but its a little dangerous as that coloumn is meant to collapse in an accident, the weld may break but because of the tight clearances it will likely bind.
My solution was to smack it with a ball peen on an anvil on two sides to take up the play, that way it should still collapse.
you could also squish it slightly in a hydraulic press...
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I like this idea - have the play and want to fix it, but don't really want my daughter driving a truck with a column that won't collapse (and she *might* be allowed to drive it sometimes). How did this approach hold up?
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05-08-2020, 12:50 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gruelin
I like this idea - have the play and want to fix it, but don't really want my daughter driving a truck with a column that won't collapse (and she *might* be allowed to drive it sometimes). How did this approach hold up?
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This solution is Not to fix play in steering.
It is to fix the rattle that occurs when one off-roads and gets a little speed going causing the assembly to rattle a bit. Have you experienced this and is this what you are trying to resolve or is it merely a 'loose' steering wheel?
if the latter, have all the bushings been replaced in the rack yet? that's usually where the play comes from. Keep in mind toyota engineered about a 1/2" of play as "standard" out of the brand new box.
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05-08-2020, 11:58 AM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgue467
This solution is Not to fix play in steering.
It is to fix the rattle that occurs when one off-roads and gets a little speed going causing the assembly to rattle a bit. Have you experienced this and is this what you are trying to resolve or is it merely a 'loose' steering wheel?
if the latter, have all the bushings been replaced in the rack yet? that's usually where the play comes from. Keep in mind toyota engineered about a 1/2" of play as "standard" out of the brand new box.
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Thanks - yes the rattle is what I am trying to resolve. I experience it off-road, and can easily reproduce it by grabbing the shaft and turning the wheel. I've been considering alternate fixes, as a spot weld or roll pin makes me a little nervous, and wondered how this pinch approach might work and hold up. If there really is no other way, I'll go with the weld.
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05-08-2020, 12:41 PM
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#14
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So weird you posted this OP. I’ve noticed whenever I’m going fast on a bumpy road the steering has a lot of play in it.
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05-08-2020, 12:55 PM
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#15
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I have a gut feeling that none of these fixes will allow the column to collapse the way it was designed to in an accident. Two choices:
1. Fix it with tack welds/sheer pins/etc and accept it.
2. A new column is $333 or so today. Expensive but not unaffordable.
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