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Old 01-24-2020, 11:03 AM #46
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yeah that^
i was probably gonna go this route

Eastwood Internal Frame Anti-Rust Coating, 14 oz. Spray
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Old 01-24-2020, 11:03 AM #47
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I did a small lift on my 4runner about 3 years ago when I added the 265s and '99 rear springs.... Same time I did the 4x4 and 5-speed swap...

I STILL haven't gotten it aligned. I've driven it across country and another 35,000mi since then haha
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Old 01-24-2020, 11:24 AM #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAL75057 View Post
I desperately need to either reupholster or replace mine. If you don't mind me asking how much did it cost and can you recommend a vendor?
Sure thing. I did a lot of online research and had it narrowed down to 2 companies found on ebay. In the end I went with US Auto Seat Cover and am pretty happy with the choice. I contacted them through their website and put together a package deal.

I got the leathers for both fronts (my back seats look practically brand new) and 2 new seat foams for the bottoms for $800 even. The seat foams sell for about $100 each, so I think it was a pretty good deal. I highly recommend replacing your seat foams because they are actually the culprit behind the classic 4runner driver seat bolster blow out! When I first put the new seats in I couldn't believe how much higher I sat in the truck again. I had been doing the lowrider for so long. They don't offer foams for the uppers or I would have gone for those. The replacements look like much better quality material than OEM.

The labor really wasn't difficult at all. Add in $70 for a set of aftermarket seat heaters from Amazon and you've got some brand new front seats for under $1000. Excuse the crummy pic, but you can see they nailed the OEM pattern and OAK color. This is before I put the head rest on and applied the heat gun and they already looked so much better.
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Old 01-24-2020, 04:27 PM #49
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I have a new fuel filter sitting around, waiting to install. 233K miles, so it's certainly time.

But those fittings look rusty, and I just know it's going to be a real epic PITA.

I also have new HS rear lower control arms, and poly bushings for the other arms, but I'm mostly just waiting for better weather to put those on.
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Old 01-24-2020, 05:14 PM #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian. View Post
Tons of holes in the frame already, you just use an applicator hose like this one:



and your choice of product.
Interesting. 🤔 I live in the Texas hill country. So they never salt the roads here. Even on the very rare occasion it gets icey. Ironically I just crawled underneath my Runner yesterday to see if I had rust. A few specs here and there. But that was it.

Anywho, thatís for the knowledge. 🙂
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Old 01-25-2020, 11:59 AM #51
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For me itís knock sensors and the knock sensor harness. Itís been on for 70,000 miles now because I donít want to tear the intake down. Iíve probably already paid for the paid the parts in the bad gas mileage Iíve been getting but still lol. My other one is lower control arm bushings. With 355,000 on the clock it makes it hard to want to tear into it.
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Old 01-26-2020, 09:41 AM #52
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I've only had this old guy for a month and it's been behind on some of the maintenance and upkeep must's (timing belt etc, fluids change throughout, LBJ's, battery, plugs and wires) so I've worked through most of those.

Putting off: wheel bearing or pinion gear bearing, my center console lights, most of which are out, transmission gear indicator which doesn't line up right, and driver side master lock switch which will lock, but not unlock, all the doors.
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Old 01-26-2020, 11:41 AM #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
Power door lock switches... I guess I need see if I truly need that body ecu.
I have a door lock switch issue, or I *thought* it was a switch. The driver's side switch will lock all the doors but not unlock them, the passenger side works like it should. What's the 'body ecu'? Sounds expensive.
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Old 01-26-2020, 11:45 AM #54
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How do you coat inside the box frame?
You can also get into it by removing the rear bumper. Might be able to spray coat all the way to the front with a hose fitting or something.
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Old 01-26-2020, 12:08 PM #55
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I have a door lock switch issue, or I *thought* it was a switch. The driver's side switch will lock all the doors but not unlock them, the passenger side works like it should. What's the 'body ecu'? Sounds expensive.
Not totally sure, just some expensive ass computer that controls... Body...stuff... I guess?

I can only lock or unlock my doors with my fob.
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Old 01-26-2020, 09:07 PM #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
Not totally sure, just some expensive ass computer that controls... Body...stuff... I guess?

I can only lock or unlock my doors with my fob.
Key doesn't work to unlock, or do they auto-lock immediately? I don't have a fob, putting that off too.
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Old 01-26-2020, 09:22 PM #57
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Been putting off finding a squeak, even took it 2 places, they could hear it yet not find it.

Then it just went away, haha....
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Old 01-27-2020, 01:35 AM #58
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Quote:
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Key doesn't work to unlock, or do they auto-lock immediately? I don't have a fob, putting that off too.
The fob works perfectly, but any of the buttons inside the cab do nothing at all. I mean they act as if they are not plugged in or something. Totally dead.

Of course you can manually pull the plunger things.
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Old 02-05-2020, 04:39 AM #59
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Slow transmission leak but leak seems to be coming from high side of the trans somewhere and whole pan is covered in fluid
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