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Old 01-19-2020, 06:08 PM #16
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Yeah that's totalled. Happened to mine just a few months ago, with less damage than that (and none to the frame). I don't have enough experience to tell you what to expect beyond that, but maybe my story is instructive.

I have a 2002, about as clean as yours, but no unicorn. Got rear ended and pushed into the vehicle in front of me. The bumper was pushed up a bit, but not bad at all.

Insurance put the value at $5200, which was close to KBB ($4800). Repair estimate was $4700, which was over the limit for MD (75%). They deemed the salvage value at $2000, so I got cut a $3200 check.

I was able to do the repair myself for free. The damage is still evident if you look close, but it's not obvious.

In the end, I my truck is a little less pretty, I can only get liability insurance and the KBB value is about half, but for all that trouble I got a $3200 in the bank.

If I were you, I'd look into getting the frame fixed in a shop if needed and doing the rest yourself. That's a real nice truck, it'd be a shame to give it up, especially considering what they'd give you for it.

edit: fixed the numbers, which were slightly off
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Last edited by Jidaran; 01-20-2020 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 01-19-2020, 07:46 PM #17
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Always a few problems on bending frames back.

1) it's never exactly where it was nor can you make it exact just close.

2) the piece that bent will rust about 10x to 25x faster then the rest of the frame because it was bent without the steel being molten.

3) you lost alot of strength in that bent area and if that front took another hit it would bend 4x worse


Could it be bent back to close probably. However, for strength and safety . It would be best to cut the bent section off and weld non bent front section back on with the plates welded in the inside and the seam welded. By doing it this way it be stronger them OEM factory.

Depending on how much damage is done on the radiator support Amand the body supports bent on the frame. If any kinks are in the inner fenders. Probably be best to take the body panels back to beginning of the front clip. Replace it all if they are bent. So hood all lines up and the fenders line up being straight with the radiator support.

This is why I say. It's an expensive fix to do it for the most strength and everything perfectly straight.

Bending it back or doing nothing much is the cheapest way to get it close or good enough.

I dont know if a bent frame will pass inspection in PA. As a guess I would say no way. As it effects the intrigity of the frame structure.


Time will tell how this will play out.

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Old 01-19-2020, 09:30 PM #18
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I would not recommend the do nothing option. If you get in a collision with other people in the car and they get hurt that might weigh on your conscience. Couldnít you find a California 4 runner and then part this one out?
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Old 01-19-2020, 09:34 PM #19
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Easily "fixed" with a chain a strap and a tree, new bumper and brackets good to go. Won't be perfect but fixed and perfectly drivable for damn near free. I've pulled out worse the same way, but I'm the kind of person who can be OK with close enough.

It will be totalled. Around here they'd pay out about 5k and buyback would be 500 or so.

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Old 01-19-2020, 11:08 PM #20
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Definitely repairable, and definitely worth repairing.
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Old 01-19-2020, 11:20 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jidaran View Post
Yeah that's totalled. Happened to mine just a few months ago, with less damage than that (and none to the frame). I don't have enough experience to tell you what to expect beyond that, but maybe my story is instructive.

I have a 2002, about as clean as yours, but no unicorn. Got rear ended and pushed into the vehicle in front of me. The bumper was pushed up a bit, but not bad at all.

Insurance put the value at $5500, which was close to KBB. Repair estimate was $5000, which was over the limit for MD (80%). I bought it back from them for $3500, since they deemed the salvage value at $2000.

I was able to do the repair myself for free. The damage is still evident if you look close, but it's not obvious.

In the end, I my truck is a little less pretty, I can only get liability insurance and the KBB value is about half, but for all that trouble I got a $3000 check to put in the bank.

If I were you, I'd look into getting the frame fixed in a shop if needed and doing the rest yourself. That's a real nice truck, it'd be a shame to give it up, especially considering what they'd give you for it.
This is my best guess as to how I see it playing out as well, your numbers seem higher than I expect them to be however. Little less pretty but functional is fine with me. My biggest concern with any fix will be PA safety inspections, I'll have to find out where they come down on frame repair and structural integrity.

I'll take her to a couple body/frame shops to get a few opinions before meeting with the insurance scheduled shop later in the week.

I'll keep the forum posted as it plays out. Appreciate all the opinions and advice, feel free to keep it coming.
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Old 01-20-2020, 12:01 AM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawdog View Post
Could you elaborate on your second statement? It has been deemed a "not at fault collision claim". Does this apply even if insurance would be totaling it?

From my inspection all damage appears to be well in front of front wheels, no change in driveability even at highway speeds than prior to accident. Everything on the car works (including heat, which I didn't think was initially), other than one turn signal. Front end naturally is skewed towards the drivers side from the impact, gaps are close, but all doors and hood open and close without scraping.
It is hit or miss. But I've known people to use some classic/valuable/unique vehicle argument and basically force the at fault party's insurance to fix it. Or, to convince their own insurance to cover it. I think you would have to have full coverage? Honestly not sure if it can apply to a 3rd gen, but you may be able to push it with the idea that it's modified and also that they are technically becoming collectable. Hard to find, prices are going UP, not down, value is high, etc.

Most recent was one of the big bosses are our office with a older 90s F-150 that was in excellent shape before the hit, he was able to convince them it was a "classic" and had it fully repaired when it was considered totaled due to its age. This dude is also making executive level pay, so maybe he has epic level insurance? No idea.

It is one of those, your mileage vary kind of things I guess.

But, if things work fine as you say you could just try to find a local small time mechanic to make a cash deal with. I'd at least have said mechanic reinforce the area that is damaged in case it is weak now. Don't want it to f*** up if you take a semi hard bump off-road.

Shit, I misread your first post.. hahaha!! Too much vodka, I thought it said something about being ran off the road in the snow.

Okay forget insurance and KBB. I'd get a ARB deluxe bumper, find a local independent guy, make a cash deal and have him to fix up the area enough and attach the bumper. Or have him fix it enough and then put on the arb yourself. Which ever.

The arb has crash cans, which is why it is legit. This way you have a new bumper, replaceable crash cans that could possibly save your frame from this kind of crap, and a cool ass looking truck.

Last edited by jross20; 01-20-2020 at 12:09 AM. Reason: Shit
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Old 01-20-2020, 04:52 PM #23
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Dropped by a shop today, didn't get a formal estimate but the dude told me $3-4k range to repair, which if true likely means it will be totaled. I've got an appointment with a different shop later in the week to find out for sure.

Lets assume they total it; if they don't would it be a major surprise to me and I'd be fixed up and out only my deductible- not likely. So assuming its totaled and for that price to fix I won't be cancelling the claim to fix out of pocket. My questions for the forum at that point..

How much would you be willing to pay for it as salvage from the insurance company?

From there I could find someone to straighten the frame for a cash deal, try to fix myself, keep as a parts vehicle for a future T4R, part out, or sell whole..

Whats its value if sold whole as a salvage? Whats the value in a part out? (1999, 160k, engine runs flawlessly, 5 speed, e-locker, nice oak leather interior, all service records since new)
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Old 02-02-2020, 10:20 PM #24
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You decide what youíre going to do with it yet?


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Old 02-04-2020, 05:14 PM #25
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You decide what youíre going to do with it yet?


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Had the adjuster out today, we're now heading for a total loss.

It appears my posts from yesterday disappeared, I had an estimate from Geico's signature shop for $2900 which had me feeling cautiously optimistic, but it was purely based on photos one of their guys took. I did show him the frame damage and he took pictures of it, but they did not start pulling panels.

Mobile adjuster came out today and quoted repairs at $9000, which included a full frame replacement. I told him that was ridiculous and that I had other quotes that it could be straightened. I was then told that frame replacement aside ($4500) the rest of the damage would total it. He also acted like he had no idea nor did the prior estimate from one of their recommended shops carry any weight at this point.

So now we're heading toward a total-loss. I felt the initial value of the vehicle is low for what it is, 1999 4wd, 160k miles, 5 speed with e-locker in good condition, so I'm going to work on getting that value up.

Probable I buy it back as salvage and try to repair myself at this point.

But...If anyone reading this has been searching for a beauty of a candidate for a swap or off road rig- 5 speed, 4wd, 160k 5vz, working e-locker, great interior-Shoot me a PM with your offer, worst I can say is no. Keeping my options open, but not looking to part out at this point.
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Old 02-11-2020, 03:50 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jidaran View Post
Yeah that's totalled. Happened to mine just a few months ago, with less damage than that (and none to the frame). I don't have enough experience to tell you what to expect beyond that, but maybe my story is instructive.

I have a 2002, about as clean as yours, but no unicorn. Got rear ended and pushed into the vehicle in front of me. The bumper was pushed up a bit, but not bad at all.

Insurance put the value at $5200, which was close to KBB ($4800). Repair estimate was $4700, which was over the limit for MD (75%). They deemed the salvage value at $2000, so I got cut a $3200 check.

I was able to do the repair myself for free. The damage is still evident if you look close, but it's not obvious.

In the end, I my truck is a little less pretty, I can only get liability insurance and the KBB value is about half, but for all that trouble I got a $3200 in the bank.

If I were you, I'd look into getting the frame fixed in a shop if needed and doing the rest yourself. That's a real nice truck, it'd be a shame to give it up, especially considering what they'd give you for it.

edit: fixed the numbers, which were slightly off
Just to update, mine is playing out just about the same way yours did. I'm keeping the truck and getting a check for $4400.

Local shop will pull the frame for me for a couple hundred bucks and either I'll replace the rest of the parts or they'll source some used parts and do it for me, still waiting on their quote to determine who's doing the rest of the work. They're an Enhanced Inspection shop (required initial inspection to get R title here in PA) so they'll take care of that for me as well.

So it'll take a bit of work, but the truck should live on and I don't have to go searching for a new one.
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Old 02-11-2020, 04:23 PM #27
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1999 Toyota 4Runner for Sale (with Photos) - CARFAX

Seems the adjuster may have been a little low?
Is it to late to have someone do an appraisal ?
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Old 02-11-2020, 04:23 PM #28
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1999 Toyota 4Runner for Sale (with Photos) - CARFAX

How friendly is your insurance rep.?
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Old 02-11-2020, 04:39 PM #29
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Quote:
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1999 Toyota 4Runner for Sale (with Photos) - CARFAX

Seems the adjuster may have been a little low?
Is it to late to have someone do an appraisal ?
Went back and forth numerous times with the Geico adjuster and his supervisor, couldn't get them to come up at all. Switched gears and did get them to knock a few hundred off the salvage buy back price though, as I thought that was high.

Just for future reference for anyone in a similar situation, my figures were $5450 value, -$800 salvage, -$250 deductible = truck and $4400
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Old 02-11-2020, 06:19 PM #30
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At least you getting it worked out.

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