I have a set of standard Rotors that are getting a little Warped. Wonder what you guys have to say.

Well if they vibrate most every time they warm up enough when stopping, then they begin to annoy me, so I replace them.

I've done drilled/slotted and wasn't crazy about the feel you get in the peddle from the drill holes, you do 'feel' them, like a buzz.

So next time I went with slotted only. the slots are to move water out faster when raining a lot - they work.

I got the ones with angled vanes, the rotors are directional to 'grab' air as they spin and funnel it to the center cooling off better than traditional vanes that go straight from the outside to the center.

Here's a list of what's available from Stop Tech, the brand I've learned to love for Runners.

Here is the model# for the left side, same just R for right on end: Amazon.com: StopTech 126.44112SL Sport Slotted Brake Rotor- Front Left: Automotive

Been at least 2 years, zero warping, smooth.

Luck. Security Check

+1 for Stoptech slotted rotors, had them on some other cars of a go-fast nature. IME you do still 'feel' the slots in the pedals under hard braking, but they seem to work a little better and they're my go-to rotor swap for anything and those are on my list for my 4runner as well.

While we're on the subject of brake rotors: I have an '00 4Runner 'Highlander Edition' which apparently has a 'lower rear diff gear and larger brake rotors' but I've not found the difference between these and standard SR5/Limited rotors or the Sport Package. Anyone know?

Very useful info thanks. I’ll apply this info to my brake part selection for my Tundra.

engineering explained has a couple very good vids on brake stuff.

one really interesting vid he did on performance/slotted rotors

YouTube

this one is for pads, lesson learned OEM can't be beat generally.

YouTube

I have tried a bunch of different stuff over the years and now pretty much either napa premo brand solid rotors or toyota OEM. either way with these options its a do it once and forget for it for 100K usually.

I too like the premium Napa coated rotors. Been 3 or 4 years on my Saturn S Series and still look new.


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To my knowledge, they only came with two sizes, smaller for 15" wheels and larger for 16".

I just use stock type rotors from a reputable manufacturer, centric, raybestos, etc. Then slap on a normal pad, typically use the centric posi-quiets. I feel no need to sacrifice anything for. "braking performance" in an SUV that's not really built to do much beyond what a normal set of brakes can handle.

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Well I can only go my experiences in the last 30 years of Toyotas. In my environment. The original rotors and pads did the best with no warpage for close to 100k miles before warpage of the rotor would occur. Now brake pads will wear at various rates due to road conditions etc.

After the need to change the original rotors from factory to another this gets interesting.

As from the late 80s on this is what I seen with vehicles with Drum brakes in the rear disc in the front. Probably different with disc all around.

No matter which rotor I put on these vehicles. These rotors would warp way too soon. Even using OEM Toyota rotors wouldn't help. As they would warp way before 100k miles.

So there is a major difference between factory floor rotors and the OEM rotors being sold.

Now this is across the spectrum of cars, trucks etc.

My first thought was oh my back brakes arent adjusted properly but that didn't matter as I tested being adjusted up every 5k by hand or not.

Now out of all my Toyotas that I have had. It sure seems the 3rd gen are the absolute worst for warpage out of all of them.

I had the best luck with slotted rotors on the Camry lasting the longest. I also put slotted in my wife's van.

Nothing I have found so far will keep a 3rd orginal size rotor from warping. My last set lasted 3 months before it started warping.

As I really dont want to upgrade to a tundra brake system. However, nothing gets under my skin more then warped rotors that vibrate your steering wheel.

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I used to agree with this. I’m OEM all the way. But after driving a loner 2020 Camry while the stealership worked on my 4R for over two weeks I’m completely sold on better breaking than what 3rd gen 4Runners offer. If I could find a mechanic to modify my breaks to better breaks I would do it in a second.

Looking at prices online I see everything from 35.00 to 200.00 per rotor. I don't mind spending money on things that work I hate spending good money after bad but trying to not to over buy either. Thanks for all the input so far.

"Warping"... Better defined as uneven deposits of brake pad material on rotor which causes a vibration.

IMHO... 3rd gen brakes are a bit under designed in mass and size unless used exclusively in semi flat country and conservatively. Add mountain driving and harsh use and there's "warp".

Only seen two sized front calipers for 3rd gen's. 15" wheels (S12WE) and 16" wheels (S13WM). Rear pistons 15/16" and 1" respectively.

Tundra S13WE (199mm) (thicker rotor upgrade)
very confused - can you guys help?

Everything works good with new parts but as your brakes wear will also see a taper in the rotor surface (unparalleled) from inner diameter to outer diameter. Adds to the 'warp' with miles.

Toyota calipers also require more frequent replacement/rebuild.

Best suggestion put on the best rotors and "pads" your budget allows. Calipers in question? Do those too.

Cheers!

Yes definitely undersized rotors and brake system for the vehicle mass on the 3rd gens for for sure.


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I couldn't find it at this time but Team O'Neil did a video about brakes and the size and where the different sizes can be a pro or con.

YouTube

Essentially what it came to: On street; bigger brakes = better.
Off road, smaller brakes = better

Why? Offroad you don't want to tap the brakes and lock up in loose stuff.

BUT 99% of our rigs are on-road ☺ so bigger is better!

I haven't installed them yet, but I bought 2 new OEM rotors that I'm hoping to put on this weekend with new pads as well. I go OEM and don't even shop aftermarket.