With 320k miles on my original fuel pump, I am considering replacing it with a Denso oem that cost around $70-80 on ebay or Amazon. My original one is still working fine, but I want to avoid being stranded and getting hit with a massive towing charge (like I did when my alt died recently). Any high mileage owners advice is welcome. Thanks in advance.
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'96 T4R SR5 V6 Auto 2WD 329,000 miles
With 320k miles on my original fuel pump, I am considering replacing it with a Denso oem that cost around $70-80 on ebay or Amazon. My original one is still working fine, but I want to avoid being stranded and getting hit with a massive towing charge (like I did when my alt died recently). Any high mileage owners advice is welcome. Thanks in advance.
Have your fuel pressure at the rail checked. See if your in good pressure range. I would say 300 to 400k would be a good time to swap it out if concerned about failure. I never had one go bad in 30 years here but I mostly pull the tanks and clean them up etc from the rust as the filling tube can rot out.
With brushes going out in the alt and starters in the range of 180k to 200k. Its definitely good to to thinking about it. However unfortunately I cant answer how long they last as they are excellent little fuel pumps.
Changing the fuel pump is no small task. If you are familiar with older Toyotas, you could access the fuel pump easily from under the seat. No such luck here, you have to drop the tank.
I installed a used DENSO pump with 200k+ miles on it a few years back that provided more flow. DENSO fuel pumps rarely ever fail, they outlast the vehicle. These are not Hondas.
Changing the fuel pump is no small task. If you are familiar with older Toyotas, you could access the fuel pump easily from under the seat. No such luck here, you have to drop the tank.
I installed a used DENSO pump with 200k+ miles on it a few years back that provided more flow. DENSO fuel pumps rarely ever fail, they outlast the vehicle. These are not Hondas.
I have pulled 3 3rd gen 4runner tanks. The early years are easier then the later ones. I done both. However, they arent horrible. In the rust belt, if you dont keep that tank clean and rust inhibited it will rust through.
As so do the filler tube.
I mostly just run them out of gas. If the pumps gone, you mostly can use a pump inline on the fuel line to suck the fuel out of the tank. Granted, like I said I haven't had one fail yet. Once the tank is out of fuel they are pretty easy to manage.
If the gas tank is full of fuel and you have to drop it out. You better use a hydraulic table or some jacks to get it safely to the ground so you can pop the fuel tank sending unit / pump/ fuel gauge out and drop or pump the gas out.
I just put the runner up on Jack stands. Disconnect the fuel lines and filling tubes. Take off the fuel tank skid plate. Disconnect the wiring under the rear seat. Then try to let the tank down a bit to pull those breather lines off. Once all the lines are off with the wires the tanks come right out and when on the ground empty you can do what we need to do.
When I have tanks down. I replace all the screws bolts and gaskets. So that if I never need to get back in there I can. Granted in non rust belt areas. Replacing screws may not be required.
I have pictures of my 5 speed gas tank before and after photos somewhere. They probably aren't in my build page as I done that before I had a build page.
I have pulled 3 3rd gen 4runner tanks. The early years are easier then the later ones. I done both. However, they arent horrible. In the rust belt, if you dont keep that tank clean and rust inhibited it will rust through.
As so do the filler tube.
I mostly just run them out of gas. If the pumps gone, you mostly can use a pump inline on the fuel line to suck the fuel out of the tank. Granted, like I said I haven't had one fail yet. Once the tank is out of fuel they are pretty easy to manage.
If the gas tank is full of fuel and you have to drop it out. You better use a hydraulic table or some jacks to get it safely to the ground so you can pop the fuel tank sending unit / pump/ fuel gauge out and drop or pump the gas out.
I just put the runner up on Jack stands. Disconnect the fuel lines and filling tubes. Take off the fuel tank skid plate. Disconnect the wiring under the rear seat. Then try to let the tank down a bit to pull those breather lines off. Once all the lines are off with the wires the tanks come right out and when on the ground empty you can do what we need to do.
When I have tanks down. I replace all the screws bolts and gaskets. So that if I never need to get back in there I can. Granted in non rust belt areas. Replacing screws may not be required.
I have pictures of my 5 speed gas tank before and after photos somewhere. They probably aren't in my build page as I done that before I had a build page.
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For me the vent hoses would not come off and I stripped the compression fitting on the fuel lines. In theory it's not too bad, it really is just a few hoses and wires and lowering the tank. But if something goes wrong like it did for me, it goes downhill fast.
And I agree about running it low or empty. Makes the tank WAY easier to handle.
I did mine in the driveway with a couple inches of snow on the ground at about 190k miles, it showed no sign of failure, just parked it for the night and it was dead the next morning. It's not really a hard job at all, especially if you can run the majority of the fuel out of the tank first.
I also have a body lift though, so getting to the lines and fittings was significantly easier.
If you are in a rust belt area be sure to order a new fuel tank strap with your pump, mine was toast, however the tank itself was in surprisingly good shape
My OEM pump died at a little less than 200k miles.
A check valve in the pump kept failing closed when it was hot so it wouldn't start without either starter fluid in the intake or letting it cool down for 1hr+. I was never stranded, but I was late a few times to clients before I realized the starter fluid trick.
I'd say don't bother worrying with checking the fuel pressure and just replace it at 320k. I'd never dropped the tank before and the entire job took me maybe 4 hours. Not too hard.
Do you have the older shitty fuel sender? If so I would order the new one with an oem pump and all the gaskets and goodies.
I got all of the parts for around $500 and my mechanic only charged me $180 to do it all. (I do a lot with them so they give me breaks here and there).
Me, I would only use an OEM pump. Japanese parts all the way.
Do you have the older shitty fuel sender? If so I would order the new one with an oem pump and all the gaskets and goodies.
I got all of the parts for around $500 and my mechanic only charged me $180 to do it all. (I do a lot with them so they give me breaks here and there).
Me, I would only use an OEM pump. Japanese parts all the way.
I havent seen crappy fuel sender. I have heard the later years ones can have issues.
All that's in the tanks are fuel pump and fuel gauge as I done both earlier and later fuel tank gaskets with new screws.
I havent seen crappy fuel sender. I have heard the later years ones can have issues.
All that's in the tanks are fuel pump and fuel gauge as I done both earlier and later fuel tank gaskets with new screws.
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There is an older one or the early one, whatever, it reads like ass. I've got the newer one now and it actually makes sense and gives me a legit reading
Last edited by jross20; 02-01-2020 at 12:13 PM.
Reason: Damn phone
There is an older one or the early one, whatever, it reads like ass. I've got the newer one now and it actually makes sense and gives me a legit reading
Linear Mode
