User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 02-06-2020, 05:16 PM #1
murderface murderface is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Age: 40
Posts: 141
murderface is on a distinguished road
murderface murderface is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Age: 40
Posts: 141
murderface is on a distinguished road
Transmission not shifting when cold

Having exact same symptoms as this thread here: Delayed shifting when cold, yes I know its normal but..... . I've read the entire thread and saw he needed a trans replacement. First test I ran was unplugging the solenoid and it shifted manually. Based off this info, what would need to be done to fix it? Replace solenoids?
__________________
'02 Dorado Gold SR5
murderface is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 02-06-2020, 05:59 PM #2
jgue467's Avatar
jgue467 jgue467 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 2,576
jgue467 has a spectacular aura about jgue467 has a spectacular aura about
jgue467 jgue467 is offline
Senior Member
jgue467's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 2,576
jgue467 has a spectacular aura about jgue467 has a spectacular aura about
Have you tried new fluid yet?

When my trans wouldn't do the 1-2 shift without me letting off the throttle, a full flush did the trick. Luck.
__________________
2001 Limited 4WD - 324K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL, ZERO RUST - StopTech ANGLED rotors - Magnefine trans filter - In series trans cooler, ORIGINAL: paint, engine, 4wd, trans, mstr cyl & brake system, rear axle seals, A/C, steering pump, steering rack, front/center/rear diffs, all electric motors, seat heaters and so on. WooHoo!!
Oh yeah, GO LONGHORNS!
jgue467 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 02-07-2020, 08:37 AM #3
RadMan69 RadMan69 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Joplin, MO
Posts: 2
RadMan69 is on a distinguished road
RadMan69 RadMan69 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Joplin, MO
Posts: 2
RadMan69 is on a distinguished road
I too am having this delayed shift on my rig, I have been planning to get a flush soon anyway, but definitely after reading this!
RadMan69 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 02-07-2020, 10:30 AM #4
thegipper's Avatar
thegipper thegipper is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: West Bend, WI
Posts: 2,136
Real Name: Mike
thegipper has a spectacular aura about thegipper has a spectacular aura about
thegipper thegipper is offline
Senior Member
thegipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: West Bend, WI
Posts: 2,136
Real Name: Mike
thegipper has a spectacular aura about thegipper has a spectacular aura about
Gipper here, author of said post.

It's a good thing that it shifts manually, that leads me to believe that you may just have a faulty solenoid and not the failure I had.

Do the easy/obvious stuff first, check the level of your fluid and the condition.

I would then drop the pan, replace the filter, inspect/test the solenoids and replace the fluid. There are three tests that need to be done for each solenoid:

1. 12v power to the solenoid checking that it opens and closes
2. Ohm test (should be between 11-15 ohm)
3. Pressure test, solenoid should be able to hold 71 psi of air pressure and not leak

If they fail any of these tests, replace them.

And just to be clear, it is 100% normal for the transmission to not shift from 2nd into 3rd gear until the truck warms up a bit. It is NOT normal for it to not shift out of 1st gear no matter how cold it is, that's what mine was doing.

Bad solenoids won't always throw a code, keep that in mind.
__________________
1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited

Last edited by thegipper; 02-07-2020 at 10:35 AM.
thegipper is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 02-07-2020, 03:35 PM #5
jross20's Avatar
jross20 jross20 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 528
jross20 will become famous soon enough
jross20 jross20 is offline
Member
jross20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 528
jross20 will become famous soon enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegipper View Post
Gipper here, author of said post.

It's a good thing that it shifts manually, that leads me to believe that you may just have a faulty solenoid and not the failure I had.

Do the easy/obvious stuff first, check the level of your fluid and the condition.

I would then drop the pan, replace the filter, inspect/test the solenoids and replace the fluid. There are three tests that need to be done for each solenoid:

1. 12v power to the solenoid checking that it opens and closes
2. Ohm test (should be between 11-15 ohm)
3. Pressure test, solenoid should be able to hold 71 psi of air pressure and not leak

If they fail any of these tests, replace them.

And just to be clear, it is 100% normal for the transmission to not shift from 2nd into 3rd gear until the truck warms up a bit. It is NOT normal for it to not shift out of 1st gear no matter how cold it is, that's what mine was doing.

Bad solenoids won't always throw a code, keep that in mind.
My girl has a delay shifting into 3rd when she is cold. The first shift into 3rd is also a pretty strong bump (but not a violent jerk). She also makes a semi loud (but not violent sounding) noise when I am slowing to come to a stop. I think it is when she shifts back into 1st.

Is there anyway to test solenoids without dropping the pan? I feel like if I am going to drop the pan I might as well replace all of them if they are not too expensive... A 20 year old solenoid is pretty old I reckon.
jross20 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 02-07-2020, 06:00 PM #6
phattyduck phattyduck is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 3,289
phattyduck is a splendid one to behold phattyduck is a splendid one to behold phattyduck is a splendid one to behold phattyduck is a splendid one to behold phattyduck is a splendid one to behold phattyduck is a splendid one to behold phattyduck is a splendid one to behold
phattyduck phattyduck is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 3,289
phattyduck is a splendid one to behold phattyduck is a splendid one to behold phattyduck is a splendid one to behold phattyduck is a splendid one to behold phattyduck is a splendid one to behold phattyduck is a splendid one to behold phattyduck is a splendid one to behold
Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
My girl has a delay shifting into 3rd when she is cold. The first shift into 3rd is also a pretty strong bump (but not a violent jerk). She also makes a semi loud (but not violent sounding) noise when I am slowing to come to a stop. I think it is when she shifts back into 1st.

Is there anyway to test solenoids without dropping the pan? I feel like if I am going to drop the pan I might as well replace all of them if they are not too expensive... A 20 year old solenoid is pretty old I reckon.
The delayed shift into 3rd when cold is NORMAL. 100% as designed. It helps both the engine and trans head up.

Check rear driveshaft lube for the clunk when coming to a stop (slip joint splines, specifically).

-Charlie
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'16 Honda Odyssey
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
phattyduck is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 02-07-2020, 06:25 PM #7
gamefreakgc's Avatar
gamefreakgc gamefreakgc is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Posts: 5,798
Real Name: Jerod
gamefreakgc is a glorious beacon of light gamefreakgc is a glorious beacon of light gamefreakgc is a glorious beacon of light gamefreakgc is a glorious beacon of light gamefreakgc is a glorious beacon of light gamefreakgc is a glorious beacon of light
gamefreakgc gamefreakgc is offline
Elite Member
gamefreakgc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Posts: 5,798
Real Name: Jerod
gamefreakgc is a glorious beacon of light gamefreakgc is a glorious beacon of light gamefreakgc is a glorious beacon of light gamefreakgc is a glorious beacon of light gamefreakgc is a glorious beacon of light gamefreakgc is a glorious beacon of light
Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
My girl has a delay shifting into 3rd when she is cold. The first shift into 3rd is also a pretty strong bump (but not a violent jerk). She also makes a semi loud (but not violent sounding) noise when I am slowing to come to a stop. I think it is when she shifts back into 1st.

Is there anyway to test solenoids without dropping the pan? I feel like if I am going to drop the pan I might as well replace all of them if they are not too expensive... A 20 year old solenoid is pretty old I reckon.
You just described my 4Runner from 3 years ago!

Two separate things. The hard shift into 3rd is completely normal. If it bothers you, switch to full synthetic trans fluid and that goes away. The delay is just because of fluid temp and it needs to warm up more.

Slowing to the stop, it's like a humm/grind/whirr coming from the rear correct? Most likely it's your rear diff bearings on their way out. Not an urgent fix, just an annoying one. You only hear it when you are slowing down with 0 throttle right?
__________________
'98 4Runner SR5 - 4x4 5VZ-FE Supercharged - 222k miles, JDM engine @ 221k

AEM F/IC 6 Piggyback, 2.1" pulley at 11 PSI, Go-Fast Parts
Jerod's Supercharged T[u]RD Build
gamefreakgc is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 02-07-2020, 10:55 PM #8
jross20's Avatar
jross20 jross20 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 528
jross20 will become famous soon enough
jross20 jross20 is offline
Member
jross20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 528
jross20 will become famous soon enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
You just described my 4Runner from 3 years ago!

Two separate things. The hard shift into 3rd is completely normal. If it bothers you, switch to full synthetic trans fluid and that goes away. The delay is just because of fluid temp and it needs to warm up more.

Slowing to the stop, it's like a humm/grind/whirr coming from the rear correct? Most likely it's your rear diff bearings on their way out. Not an urgent fix, just an annoying one. You only hear it when you are slowing down with 0 throttle right?
Ah okay as long as my 3rd gear is fine I'm happy.

Well I don't think that is the same kind of sound. This is a quick "shift" kind of sound vs a long drawn out sound if that makes any sense. Like a clunk sound maybe? I'll try to get a recording of it. She does not always do it.
jross20 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 02-08-2020, 12:26 AM #9
Satter's Avatar
Satter Satter is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Houston, TX.
Posts: 317
Satter is on a distinguished road
Satter Satter is offline
Member
Satter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Houston, TX.
Posts: 317
Satter is on a distinguished road
Some of yall are recommending a tranny flush. I thought a flush in old transmissions was a big no no?
__________________
'98 4Runner Ltd 4WD.
A Ford might get you from point A to point B. But a Toyota will always get you home.
Satter is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 02-08-2020, 04:54 AM #10
19963.4lsr5 19963.4lsr5 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
Posts: 3,439
19963.4lsr5 has a spectacular aura about 19963.4lsr5 has a spectacular aura about 19963.4lsr5 has a spectacular aura about
19963.4lsr5 19963.4lsr5 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
Posts: 3,439
19963.4lsr5 has a spectacular aura about 19963.4lsr5 has a spectacular aura about 19963.4lsr5 has a spectacular aura about
The only time I have the delay shift into third with a cold trans is if Im driving below 35mph. If I leave my house and hit the main road (422) it will go into overdrive with lockup right away.

My Cummins on the other hand will not engage overdrive until the fluid hits 40 degrees. And it wont lock up the torque converter until 50 degrees.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
19963.4lsr5 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 02-08-2020, 08:20 AM #11
tvpierce's Avatar
tvpierce tvpierce is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 304
tvpierce will become famous soon enough
tvpierce tvpierce is offline
Member
tvpierce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 304
tvpierce will become famous soon enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by Satter View Post
Some of yall are recommending a tranny flush. I thought a flush in old transmissions was a big no no?
I've posted this before, but here it is again.

This comes up a lot, and there seems to be confusion surrounding the word "flush". Let's see if we can add some clarity.

For starters, some definitions:

1) Drain & fill: as simple as it gets. Remove the plug, most of the contents of the transmission pan is drained, re-install plug, and refill with the same amount of fluid that was drained. This replaces about 1/3 of the total capacity of fluid in the transmission.

2) Flush: remove the output/return line from the transmission cooler, run a piece of vinyl tubing from the cooler output to a one gallon container with quart markings, start the engine and run it until 2 quarts of fluid is pumped out (about 10 -15 seconds), turn off engine. Add 2 quarts of ATF through the dipstick tube, and repeat until the fluid coming out of the cooler looks as clean as the new fluid going in. This is generally done following a drain & fill.

3) Power Flush: this is a service sold at some repair facilities and dealerships. It requires special equipment that connects to the tansmission cooler lines, then draws old fluid out of the transmission and pumps new fluid in.

The Power Flush (#3) is the service that's frequently warned against that can apparently have some ill affects -- although I have no first hand experience with the process or any resulting problems.

The Flush (#2) is perfectly safe and will give you the best results for replacing the fluid in your transmission. It operates the transmission exactly as it operates whenever the engine is running. The only difference is that instead of recirculating old fluid, you're removing it, and replacing it with new. It will take a lot of fluid -- 20+ quarts -- to do completely and properly. But you'll know you're starting with a transmission full of clean, new fluid. Follow up with your periodic drain & fill (#1) and your transmission will last a long, long time.

This process has been done for decades with RWD Volvo cars which use a similar Aisin Warner transmission (in fact the later model 960s and V90s used this exact A340 transmission). Automatic transmission failures are virtually unheard of in those vehicles even with many hundreds of thousands of miles.
tvpierce is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 02-08-2020, 12:32 PM #12
brillo_76's Avatar
brillo_76 brillo_76 is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 1,901
Real Name: Jon
brillo_76 is a glorious beacon of light brillo_76 is a glorious beacon of light brillo_76 is a glorious beacon of light brillo_76 is a glorious beacon of light brillo_76 is a glorious beacon of light
brillo_76 brillo_76 is online now
Senior Member
brillo_76's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 1,901
Real Name: Jon
brillo_76 is a glorious beacon of light brillo_76 is a glorious beacon of light brillo_76 is a glorious beacon of light brillo_76 is a glorious beacon of light brillo_76 is a glorious beacon of light
Quote:
Originally Posted by tvpierce View Post
I've posted this before, but here it is again.



This comes up a lot, and there seems to be confusion surrounding the word "flush". Let's see if we can add some clarity.



For starters, some definitions:



1) Drain & fill: as simple as it gets. Remove the plug, most of the contents of the transmission pan is drained, re-install plug, and refill with the same amount of fluid that was drained. This replaces about 1/3 of the total capacity of fluid in the transmission.



2) Flush: remove the output/return line from the transmission cooler, run a piece of vinyl tubing from the cooler output to a one gallon container with quart markings, start the engine and run it until 2 quarts of fluid is pumped out (about 10 -15 seconds), turn off engine. Add 2 quarts of ATF through the dipstick tube, and repeat until the fluid coming out of the cooler looks as clean as the new fluid going in. This is generally done following a drain & fill.



3) Power Flush: this is a service sold at some repair facilities and dealerships. It requires special equipment that connects to the tansmission cooler lines, then draws old fluid out of the transmission and pumps new fluid in.



The Power Flush (#3) is the service that's frequently warned against that can apparently have some ill affects -- although I have no first hand experience with the process or any resulting problems.



The Flush (#2) is perfectly safe and will give you the best results for replacing the fluid in your transmission. It operates the transmission exactly as it operates whenever the engine is running. The only difference is that instead of recirculating old fluid, you're removing it, and replacing it with new. It will take a lot of fluid -- 20+ quarts -- to do completely and properly. But you'll know you're starting with a transmission full of clean, new fluid. Follow up with your periodic drain & fill (#1) and your transmission will last a long, long time.



This process has been done for decades with RWD Volvo cars which use a similar Aisin Warner transmission (in fact the later model 960s and V90s used this exact A340 transmission). Automatic transmission failures are virtually unheard of in those vehicles even with many hundreds of thousands of miles.
This is 100 correct. I do the exchange fluid and pump the fuild back in instead of pouring it in the dip stick hole with a small oil pump.


I use graduated 5 gallon buckets. So I can match what came in with what came out and it works. Very well for exchanging [flush] the fluid.


Those other machine flushes I would never do as it's always best to keep the fluid flowing in the directions it always goes and at the normal pressures.

That's why I call this method exchanging fluid. Not to confuse this with powerful flush machines. ;)

All the methods listed above with work. Just stay away from the machine flush at all costs.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
__________________
1997 4X4 V6 5 Speed Sr5 4 Runner (97 5 speed )
1997 4X4 V6 Red limited 4 Runner (97 Limited)
1998 4X4 V6 Sr5 Red 4 Runner (98 Tetanus1 )
1998 4X4 V6 Sr5 Silver 4 Runner (98 Tetanus2)
2001 4X4 V6 Sport Green 4 Runner (01 Green Sport)
brillo_76 is online now   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 02-08-2020, 03:05 PM #13
3bears 3bears is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbanks Alaska
Posts: 1,783
Real Name: Joshua 3 Bears
3bears has a spectacular aura about 3bears has a spectacular aura about
3bears 3bears is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbanks Alaska
Posts: 1,783
Real Name: Joshua 3 Bears
3bears has a spectacular aura about 3bears has a spectacular aura about
if you don't want to do the "flush", you can just do a drain and fill a few times. Some people, drain and refill, just start, go through the gears, shut off and re-drain and fill. Some people will drive a few miles and then redo drain and fill and ive read that some people do it on engine oil change for a few times.
what your basically doing is getting all the fluids that wont drain right away..esp that held in torque converter.
where as a flush gets it done at one time and I assume does not cross contaminate new and old fluid as easily.

Have a new crush washer on hand for drain pan, and do NOT over-torque drain pan bolt...they do strip...and its not a fun repair....

and of course many will drop the pan on the first time, ( I did) clean or change the filter and clean all the gunk out of pan and fuzz off magnets

for me, with a remote magnafine filter and cooler set up, its no big deal to pull a hose and do a flush
__________________
2000 SR-5 V6 Auto . Desert Dune, Spectre intake, Borla muffler, Magnafine tranny filter, B&M cooler, Talls, KYB, Airlift 1000, DRL delete, Big 3 wire, full rack, TBU, Swapped in Elocker, some LEDs, PIAA headlights, , Amsoil
3bears is online now   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Reply

Tags
manually , ran , thread , transmission , unplugging

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Late shifting into 3rd when cold alumarine 3rd gen T4Rs 13 03-11-2016 11:23 AM
2000 TR4 transmission shifting hard when cold 10ga 3rd gen T4Rs 5 10-02-2012 08:47 AM
Not shifting when its cold Whiskey_Runner 3rd gen T4Rs 4 01-30-2012 03:06 AM
Hard Shifting When Cold Maxil 3rd gen T4Rs 1 05-26-2011 12:55 PM
Shifting when cold dalmo 3rd gen T4Rs 4 12-21-2008 02:29 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:36 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Feedback Buttons provided by Advanced Post Thanks / Like (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
***This site is an unofficial Toyota site, and is not officially endorsed, supported, authorized by or affiliated with Toyota. All company, product, or service names references in this web site are used for identification purposes only and may be trademarks of their respective owners. The Toyota name, marks, designs and logos, as well as Toyota model names, are registered trademarks of Toyota Motor Corporation***Ad Management plugin by RedTyger
 
Copyright © 2020