02-07-2020, 01:46 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 172
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Location: Los Angeles
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Went Down the Rabbit Hole - Here's what I'm doing
99 SR5 4WD 3.4 - lifted and supercharged - well that's still in a box in my garage but going in soon, 3 pass radiator, Tundra 231mm
This weeks front end project
Replace upper and lower ball joints - OEM
Replace U/L CA Bushings - Whiteline
Replace sway endlinks - Whiteline
Replace outer tie rods - OEM
Replace CV axles and seals - OEM
Replace f/wheel bearings and seals - OEM
Transmission Mount - OEM
Cam Bolts
I'm going into the wheel bearing project myself, will take them to a shop to have pressed IF I have to cross that road.
Would appreciate tips if you got em
Last edited by jimmyrecluse; 02-07-2020 at 02:04 PM.
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02-07-2020, 01:55 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: 614
Posts: 59
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: 614
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Installation of the SC is real easy. The hardest part was the belt, lol. Have fun
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02-07-2020, 02:01 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Southwest PA
Posts: 623
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Location: Southwest PA
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good thing you aren't in the rust belt, my LCA bushing replacement was a nightmare, thankfully I have a press, but it was definitely worth it. for the LCA bushings I burned the old bushing out and then used a chisel to roll the edge of the old outer bushing sleeve inward, and then pressed it out using a big socket.
you can probably get away without the press and just hammer the sleeve out with a chisel but mine were basically a solid mass of rust. I installed aftermarket uppers on mine but I imagine it would be the same. I actually only had one seized alignment cam, the rest came off easily and I replaced them with the SPC ones that have the plastic sleeve to prevent seizing.
end links, tie rods, CVs, etc are easy compared to those bushings, my tie rods were rusted together so I replaced inner and outer at the same time, but still not a very hard job/
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02-07-2020, 02:05 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Los Angeles
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Los Angeles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyBobandy
good thing you aren't in the rust belt, my LCA bushing replacement was a nightmare, thankfully I have a press, but it was definitely worth it. /
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Oh yes, I praised the fact that my parts and frame are super clean, no rust at all
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02-07-2020, 02:13 PM
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#5
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Jose, California
Age: 58
Posts: 5,278
Real Name: Tim
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Elite Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Jose, California
Age: 58
Posts: 5,278
Real Name: Tim
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I'm pretty sure you know about our channel, but just in case, here's a link: YouTube
We have a video for every single thing you have listed you want to do to your rig.
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02-07-2020, 02:57 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Los Angeles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim
I'm pretty sure you know about our channel, but just in case, here's a link: YouTube
We have a video for every single thing you have listed you want to do to your rig.
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Yup, I've checked them out, I just wish they were trimmed down a little. You show some great tips when something doesn't go straight forwards but it's like going to the movies! I wish I could get the 20 minute cuts. I like the notes you include with helpful tools
Right now Im making a list of tools and socket sizes. Doing this with tools I have and Autozone loaners for the specialty stuff - tie rod puller, bushing press, bearing press.
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02-07-2020, 03:24 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Southwest PA
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I bought a cheap set of 3 jaw pullers from harbor freight, I think it was like $30 and they work on all sorts of stuff so I would recommend getting those.
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02-07-2020, 03:35 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyBobandy
I bought a cheap set of 3 jaw pullers from harbor freight, I think it was like $30 and they work on all sorts of stuff so I would recommend getting those.
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I appreciate that. I think I'm most uncertain about the wheel bearings.
Thankfully, rust wont be an issue. However the parts will go back on cleaner than ever
I'm checking out the HF 3 Puller now
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02-07-2020, 04:13 PM
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#9
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official vendor
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 5,311
Real Name: Mike
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official vendor
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 5,311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyrecluse
I appreciate that. I think I'm most uncertain about the wheel bearings.
Thankfully, rust wont be an issue. However the parts will go back on cleaner than ever
I'm checking out the HF 3 Puller now
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Rust isn't an issue for the front wheel bearings, and location doesn't matter. These are a press fit part, and removing them without a press is pretty difficult. Everything else you listed is very straight forward, and pretty easy to do on your own.
Mike
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02-07-2020, 04:32 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStudt
Rust isn't an issue for the front wheel bearings, and location doesn't matter. These are a press fit part, and removing them without a press is pretty difficult. Everything else you listed is very straight forward, and pretty easy to do on your own.
Mike
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I mean getting the hub off and up to the point of pressing out the bearing.
It's the one part that im uncertain about. Worst case, ill take the hubs to a shop
Good to hear the rest is straight forward
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02-07-2020, 04:35 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Jan 2019
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if you do all the control arm, ball joints, and CV work at the same time you will have the steering knuckle off, then just take it to a shop and have them swap the bearings. the knuckle isn't hard to remove
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02-07-2020, 04:48 PM
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#12
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official vendor
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 5,311
Real Name: Mike
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official vendor
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 5,311
Real Name: Mike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyrecluse
I mean getting the hub off and up to the point of pressing out the bearing.
It's the one part that im uncertain about. Worst case, ill take the hubs to a shop
Good to hear the rest is straight forward
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Just remember to loosen the CV nut with the wheel on the ground, and then pull everything about. I would take your entire spindle to the, and have them do all the press work. That would be much easier, and a better use of your time if you don't have a press.
Mike
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02-07-2020, 08:20 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Northern UT
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Before you put the supercharger on, run your gas tank down low and fill it
with premium 91 or 93 the highest you can find. Then drive it easy for the
first tank of gas while the computer learns to compensate for the lean mix.
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02-07-2020, 08:41 PM
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#14
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Jose, California
Age: 58
Posts: 5,278
Real Name: Tim
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Elite Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Jose, California
Age: 58
Posts: 5,278
Real Name: Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyrecluse
Yup, I've checked them out, I just wish they were trimmed down a little. You show some great tips when something doesn't go straight forwards but it's like going to the movies! I wish I could get the 20 minute cuts. I like the notes you include with helpful tools
Right now Im making a list of tools and socket sizes. Doing this with tools I have and Autozone loaners for the specialty stuff - tie rod puller, bushing press, bearing press.
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Well, that's our style. We make very detailed videos that a total beginner can be successful following. If we aimed our videos at experienced professional mechanics or experienced DIY mechanics, we would be leaving a whole lot of people behind. The information is all there in the videos we have for the jobs you want to do but maybe you can find some videos with trimmed down versions. But, when you get stuck and want more detail, you know where to go.
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02-08-2020, 03:11 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Stationed in Camp LeJeune, home is Conover, NC
Posts: 2,691
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Location: Stationed in Camp LeJeune, home is Conover, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyrecluse
I mean getting the hub off and up to the point of pressing out the bearing.
It's the one part that im uncertain about. Worst case, ill take the hubs to a shop
Good to hear the rest is straight forward
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You can’t take the hub off without a press.
And if you press the hub out, you might as well replace your bearing, because you’re going to destroy it.
The bearing is pressed into the spindle; a big ‘C’ clip is installed over the bearing; and the hub is then pressed into the bearing.
The 4Runner is NOT like the Tacoma; you HAVE TO RUN THE OUTTER STUB OF THE CV AXLE.
That CV nut is torqued down to (IIRC) almost 200 ft lbs, and KEEPS THE BEARING TOGETHER.
The manual hub Tacoma swap has a large nut of the back of the threaded hub that holds everything together.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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