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Old 02-14-2020, 03:40 PM #46
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Charlie,

Iím probably just getting in the way on this one.

My thought, given the vehicle used to run with the 15A dome fuse blown, would be to disregard the dome fuse and concentrate on getting the vehicle back to running. Then revisit the Dome fuse issue.

Do you think itís better to try and resolve the Dome fuse issue first? Or that the Dome fuse issue is key to the vehicle running?
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Old 02-14-2020, 03:42 PM #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
Charlie,

Iím probably just getting in the way on this one.

My thought, given the vehicle used to run with the 15A dome fuse blown, would be to disregard the dome fuse and concentrate on getting the vehicle back to running. Then revisit the Dome fuse issue.

Do you think itís better to try and resolve the Dome fuse issue first? Or that the Dome fuse issue is key to the vehicle running?
I think something was left unplugged during the debug process and that the non-running condition is a red herring at this point.

-Charlie
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:38 PM #48
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Wow you guys have been busy. What stinks is it's so easy to accidentally leave a connection unplugged and then things just go south.



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Old 02-15-2020, 10:49 AM #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
Did you try starting the rig between steps 3 and 4?

Iím not sure what to make of your comment about the 10amp fuses no longer having power. I take that to mean they did have power at some point?

Do you only own a test light, or do you have a volt meter?

Iím assuming youíve tried plugging connector 1j in and the rig still wonít start.
That should indicate that in the work that took place in steps 3 and 4 is most likely the event that caused the vehicle to not start.

It seems suspect that in step 3 something happened to cause power not to be properly distributed in the under hood relay box.

I donít have the 97 schematics. You should investigate the power distribution in the under hood fuse panel. I suspect youíve blown one of the larger (30 amp) fuses or fusible links other than ALT. ALT shouldnít do much other than carry current to/from the alternator.

Be careful poking around with a test light. You might accidentally short something.
Unfortunately I didn't try starting it between steps 3 and 4 because I had no reason to believe it wouldn't start. That wasn't the problem at that point.

From what I gather, those fuses only have power when it's on.

Yep tried reconnecting and that didn't help.
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Old 02-15-2020, 10:52 AM #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
Look at the EFI fuse under the hood and all the fuses under the dash, 7.5A ignition, ECU, ectÖ.

Under the dash relay box looks to have the important stuff on 1H.

Given the starter turns over the AM1 and 2 fuses should be good.
I swapped AM 1 & 2. They're good.

How do I test the AFI fuse? It's a big black cube on my 97.
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Old 02-15-2020, 12:28 PM #51
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Black cubes with 4+ legs in a T pattern should be relays, not fuses.

You should have an EFI fuse, per the schematics, in the under hood relay box.

I believe someone sent you the electrical schematics. In those they have sections that describe the components, as well as what does and doesnít have power when ignition is on, acc, ect....
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Old 02-15-2020, 12:31 PM #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
3. Headlight fuses won't have power unless the headlight switch is on. 50A Heater and 10A AC fuses won't have power unless the 10A gauge fuse is outputting power (key ON). 10A RR HTR fuse should have power all the time (though the rear heater itself will only work with vehicle "ON" via GAUGE fuse power and rear heater relay).

1J connector has:

1 - R-L, 10A GAUGE fuse power output (to alternator and other stuff)
2 - R, Headlight relay trigger signal (pulls to ground when switch is ON)
3 - L-W, Power in from HORN relay
4 - B, Power to horns from HORN relay
5 - empty
6 - G, Power from TAIL relay for integration relay and interior light power
7 - R-G, LH headlight low beam ground connection to headlight switch
8 - B-W, 7.5A IGN fuse power output
9 - R-G, RH headlight low beam ground connection to headlight switch
10- G-Y, Front RH turn signal power out
11- G-B, Front LH turn signal power out
12- L-Y, Power input from 15A DOME fuse to integration relay and other systems
13- empty

I'd try removing the integration relay and plugging 1J back in to see what happens. The next thing is to go down the line with every component that is connected to the DOME fuse...

-Charlie
I pulled each connector in the integration relay after plugging the 1J back in. The 15a Dome fuses continued to blow after I pulled both one at a time.

My stereo is unplugged. The dome light has been unplugged as well.
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Old 02-15-2020, 12:37 PM #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
Black cubes with 4+ legs in a T pattern should be relays, not fuses.

You should have an EFI fuse, per the schematics, in the under hood relay box.

I believe someone sent you the electrical schematics. In those they have sections that describe the components, as well as what does and doesnít have power when ignition is on, acc, ect....
AHA! Not sure when, why, or how, but that fuse had blown. Replaced it just now. AND IT STARTED!!! Woohoo...

Now to figure out this 15a Dome fuse blowing situation.
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Old 02-15-2020, 12:40 PM #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
I think something was left unplugged during the debug process and that the non-running condition is a red herring at this point.

-Charlie
I don't know when, why, or how, but the EFI fuse had blown. Per Dieselchessy's instructions, I checked it again and it was blown. I swapped it, and it started!

So that's out of the way...
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Old 02-15-2020, 12:44 PM #55
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Sorry guys. I know that was a dumb thing to overlook these past few days. But it's starting up now. I can't thank you enough for your help. This has been both interesting and educational.

Now I'm trying to find the cause for the continuous 15a Dome fuse blowing.
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Old 02-15-2020, 12:55 PM #56
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Ok. Good news, the truck running should eliminate lots of stuff and ECU damage.
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Old 02-15-2020, 01:00 PM #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
Ok. Good news, the truck running should eliminate lots of stuff and ECU damage.
Thanks again man!

Now I'm trying to unplug everything on that circuit. And trying to figure out what all that entails so I can plug each back in to see what might be the cause. I'm working with the door closed so the switch in the door isn't overlooked.
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Old 02-15-2020, 04:48 PM #58
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Okay so I've been studying the diagrams a bit. I've plugged back in the 1J connection.

I unplugged the 1F connection which controls the stereo, antenna, door switches. The new Dome fuse didn't blow. Now my personal lights work and my dome light will work in the Door position, but not the ON position.
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Old 02-15-2020, 08:19 PM #59
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Maybe investigate the wires in the rubber flex boot for the drivers door. Maybe shorted in there.

You had said the radio was unplugged. Are you sure nothings shorted in the radio wires or maybe the power antenna.
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Old 02-16-2020, 01:24 PM #60
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I've pulled the connection from the antenna. No change. Dome fuse blows.

Stereo is still pulled.

I pulled driver side door switch in question. No change. Still blows dome fuses.

To recap: When I pull the 1F connection behind the fuse panel, I don't blow any fuses. And actually, my map lights and dome light will work with a fuse reinstalled. The dome light only works when in the Door position. However, I've noticed that the rear cargo light will not work at all.

I've attached the overall electrical wiring diagram. Searching for dome within the file and trying to see what to do next.
Overall_EWD.pdf
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