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Old 02-26-2020, 01:04 AM #76
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Cool that you got it fixed. You did some good work chasing that down.
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Old 03-01-2020, 03:19 PM #77
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I've been using these threads where people are trying to figure out the dome circuit. I made it to unplugging 3C and the beep went away, after 1e, 1a, 1f testing. After unplugging 3c and continuity being disrupted, what do I do next? I'm sorry if it was mentioned somewhere previously, but after hours of searching I'm unable to find it.

I have a DMM, a fair amount of electrical knowledge, and a test light that I'm not sure I've ever used. I bought a 2000 4runner limited 4x4 and it has some electrical gremlins in this circuit. I have the FSM for my vehicle, but didn't see a pinout anywhere in it.

Thanks in advance for the help!
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Old 03-01-2020, 06:50 PM #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cnellis80 View Post
I've been using these threads where people are trying to figure out the dome circuit. I made it to unplugging 3C and the beep went away, after 1e, 1a, 1f testing. After unplugging 3c and continuity being disrupted, what do I do next? I'm sorry if it was mentioned somewhere previously, but after hours of searching I'm unable to find it.

I have a DMM, a fair amount of electrical knowledge, and a test light that I'm not sure I've ever used. I bought a 2000 4runner limited 4x4 and it has some electrical gremlins in this circuit. I have the FSM for my vehicle, but didn't see a pinout anywhere in it.

Thanks in advance for the help!
Test each pin on the 3C plug for continuity. When I know what pin carries the short, I can go circuit by circuit to see where it goes. There is no easy list. Two I found are 10 is key light and 7 is rear dome. Note the wire color to double confirm. 7 and 10 are both blue-yellow. Page 27 shows all the module does is connect Pins 4 through 10 to each other.

To get the numbers, see pin out on page 26 here. Concentrate on pins 4 through 10, excluding Pin 8, which is the incoming from 1f that feeds 4 through 10, which should show 12V+ full-time if battery is connected and DOME fuse intact:
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File Type: pdf 20 Relay Locations.pdf (183.5 KB, 1 views)
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Last edited by TheDurk; 03-01-2020 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 03-14-2020, 10:56 AM #79
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I hadn't realized that you responded to my comment/post yet. I apologize for the late reply, and want to thank you for your response.

I have made it a point to look for you and IBallEngineer when searching this forum, as you two seem to really lay things out and know what you're talking about. Since my comment a few days ago, I've narrowed the pin on 3C to terminal 7- blue with yellow. Since snipping that wire, no more blown dome fuse. I've been looking at the EWDs and have yet to figure out what that wire controls.I see you stated in your response that it controls the rear dome light.

I actually started going down the list of everything you mentioned in another post about what is on the dome circuit, unplugged everything mentioned including the rear dome and powered it off, still had the same problem. Clipping the L-Y wire on plug 3C terminal 7 seems to have "fixed" the fuse blowing, but hasn't helped with rectifying the cause lol.

I'm actually in the process of using a thread you and IBallengineer are on regarding 2000 4runners and the lovely DRL nightmare. I bought this 4runner earlier this month (have always wanted one) and it had a few issues. I was wondering why the headlights left a lot to be desired and have figured out why...they're stuck on DRL. I am down to seeing if it's something to do with the combo meter now, tried all the other troubleshooting y'all had mentioned. I plan on going out shortly and checking.

I love that this forum has helped me with repairs and chasing electrical gremlins!! I will say, there's nothing worse than seeing a request for help, someone writing out a very detailed reply of troubleshooting tips, then the original post ghosts with no results. I will be sure to NOT be "that gal".

Thanks again 😍

P.S. I always put a meter on fuses to check for continuity, never rely on how they look when pulled from the fuse panel. 😂
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Old 03-14-2020, 11:05 AM #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk View Post
Test each pin on the 3C plug for continuity. When I know what pin carries the short, I can go circuit by circuit to see where it goes. There is no easy list. Two I found are 10 is key light and 7 is rear dome. Note the wire color to double confirm. 7 and 10 are both blue-yellow. Page 27 shows all the module does is connect Pins 4 through 10 to each other.

To get the numbers, see pin out on page 26 here. Concentrate on pins 4 through 10, excluding Pin 8, which is the incoming from 1f that feeds 4 through 10, which should show 12V+ full-time if battery is connected and DOME fuse intact:
Thank you!! Long reply (couldn't find how to quote lol) listed above this one. I've interacted in forums before, but mostly just read. Since I plan on keeping my 4runner forever, and doing all repairs myself, I look forward to interacting in this forum. Thanks again!
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Old 03-14-2020, 02:39 PM #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cnellis80 View Post
I hadn't realized that you responded to my comment/post yet. I apologize for the late reply, and want to thank you for your response.

I have made it a point to look for you and IBallEngineer when searching this forum, as you two seem to really lay things out and know what you're talking about. Since my comment a few days ago, I've narrowed the pin on 3C to terminal 7- blue with yellow. Since snipping that wire, no more blown dome fuse. I've been looking at the EWDs and have yet to figure out what that wire controls.I see you stated in your response that it controls the rear dome light.

I actually started going down the list of everything you mentioned in another post about what is on the dome circuit, unplugged everything mentioned including the rear dome and powered it off, still had the same problem. Clipping the L-Y wire on plug 3C terminal 7 seems to have "fixed" the fuse blowing, but hasn't helped with rectifying the cause lol.

I'm actually in the process of using a thread you and IBallengineer are on regarding 2000 4runners and the lovely DRL nightmare. I bought this 4runner earlier this month (have always wanted one) and it had a few issues. I was wondering why the headlights left a lot to be desired and have figured out why...they're stuck on DRL. I am down to seeing if it's something to do with the combo meter now, tried all the other troubleshooting y'all had mentioned. I plan on going out shortly and checking.

I love that this forum has helped me with repairs and chasing electrical gremlins!! I will say, there's nothing worse than seeing a request for help, someone writing out a very detailed reply of troubleshooting tips, then the original post ghosts with no results. I will be sure to NOT be "that gal".

Thanks again 😍

P.S. I always put a meter on fuses to check for continuity, never rely on how they look when pulled from the fuse panel. 😂
Well, if you want to get to the cause, restore the snip and remove the gome light. If that fixes problem, replace the dome. If not, at that point, you might be best off running a new wire from 3C Pin 7 to the rear dome. Serious pain.
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Old 03-14-2020, 02:50 PM #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk View Post
Well, if you want to get to the cause, restore the snip and remove the gome light. If that fixes problem, replace the dome. If not, at that point, you might be best off running a new wire from 3C Pin 7 to the rear dome. Serious pain.
The test light never went off at all when I was testing everything in that circuit. We tested and found that pin 7 had constant power and clipped it to be able to use everything else. I still have a rear dome light and haven't noticed what I'm lacking since clipping the wire. Going to roll with it.

On another note, cluster (combo meter) was the reason I didn't have low beams, could only flash brights, and my fog lights weren't working. Making a jumper from pin 1 to pin 5 now. Yippee!!

Thanks for being so descriptive in your previous posts. Helped me a TON!! I owe you a drink if you're ever in Texas.
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Old 03-14-2020, 11:03 PM #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cnellis80 View Post
The test light never went off at all when I was testing everything in that circuit. We tested and found that pin 7 had constant power and clipped it to be able to use everything else. I still have a rear dome light and haven't noticed what I'm lacking since clipping the wire. Going to roll with it.

On another note, cluster (combo meter) was the reason I didn't have low beams, could only flash brights, and my fog lights weren't working. Making a jumper from pin 1 to pin 5 now. Yippee!!

Thanks for being so descriptive in your previous posts. Helped me a TON!! I owe you a drink if you're ever in Texas.
So the dome light is getting power from somewhere else and Pin 7 is shorted? Just for the fun of it, take a look at the bundle of wires inside the harness between the body and the liftgate by the hinges. Me thinks something may be amiss in there and you want to fix it before something else goes bad.
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'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
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Old 03-14-2020, 11:26 PM #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk View Post
So the dome light is getting power from somewhere else and Pin 7 is shorted? Just for the fun of it, take a look at the bundle of wires inside the harness between the body and the liftgate by the hinges. Me thinks something may be amiss in there and you want to fix it before something else goes bad.
I was thinking the dome wire itself had shorted to ground somewhere along its journey to the back of my rig. I will definitely check the harness you're talking about one day soon when this rain lets up.

I jumped out C27 pin 1 and 5 and have headlights now though!! Brights, low beams, and fog lights.

Rear axle bearings and seals, brakes, tack and pinion bushings, and valve cover gaskets are all next on the list. My nail lady can't understand why I don't do my nails lol!
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Old 03-14-2020, 11:28 PM #85
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*Rack and pinion. Stupid auto-correct.

Need to chase down the open circuit in pretensioner on driver side too. B0136 code is about to drive me mad.
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