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Old 02-16-2020, 01:46 PM #61
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The dome light works on a grounding circuit try unscrewing the dome light holder from the body there maybe a short there it's just a couple of screws also undo the rear dome light too infact do that one first
. What may also help is try using a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. circuit breakers cost a little more but when your working with a dead short it helps.

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Old 02-16-2020, 02:03 PM #62
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Mostly if you have a dead short. You can hook a light bulb of the same voltage of the circuit you working on in this case 12v across where the fuse goes. They go out when the short is gone and saves a pile of fuses being replaced for testing.

They also make a current tester that plugs into the fuse slot to measure the current flow.





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Old 02-17-2020, 02:31 PM #63
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I used to put a car door buzzer in like this so you could hear it and not have to see it. I think a heavy duty car flasher would also work like this just only let it run for a few minutes at a time as they may get hot and burn out. While the dead short is still happening this will cause the flasher to click on and off quicker.
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Old 02-17-2020, 03:10 PM #64
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I used to put a car door buzzer in like this so you could hear it and not have to see it. I think a heavy duty car flasher would also work like this just only let it run for a few minutes at a time as they may get hot and burn out. While the dead short is still happening this will cause the flasher to click on and off quicker.
...
Yes I am sure that would work as well. anything that runs on 12v dc will work. Buzzers, Lights etc. Works only in a dead short scenario. Over current draw is a different situation as your exceeding the amperage and melting the fuse.

Being I haven't seen and amperage reading for across the fuse terminals. It could be either way. Most of the time it's dead shorts to ground.

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Old 02-18-2020, 02:15 PM #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anormalflame View Post
Okay so I've been studying the diagrams a bit. I've plugged back in the 1J connection.

I unplugged the 1F connection which controls the stereo, antenna, door switches. The new Dome fuse didn't blow. Now my personal lights work and my dome light will work in the Door position, but not the ON position.
Ok, that's good info. Now to track down what 1J and 1F have in common.

1J connector has:

1 - R-L, 10A GAUGE fuse power output (to alternator and other stuff)
2 - R, Headlight relay trigger signal (pulls to ground when switch is ON)
3 - L-W, Power in from HORN relay
4 - B, Power to horns from HORN relay
5 - empty
6 - G, Power from TAIL relay for integration relay and interior light power
7 - R-G, LH headlight low beam ground connection to headlight switch
8 - B-W, 7.5A IGN fuse power output
9 - R-G, RH headlight low beam ground connection to headlight switch
10- G-Y, Front RH turn signal power out
11- G-B, Front LH turn signal power out
12- L-Y, Power input from 15A DOME fuse to integration relay and other systems
13- empty

1F Connector has:

1 - B-W, Door switch inputs (front RH, rear RH)
2 - B-Y, 10A Gauge fuse output gauge cluster, etc
3 - R-G, low beam headlight ground through headlight switch
4 - R-G, signal to high beam indicator
5 - empty
6 - L-R, Power Relay output to power windows and sunroof
7 - G, tail light power output / interior illumination power output
8 - R, headlight relay trigger signal (pulls to ground with headlights on/flash)
9 - empty
10- empty
11- R, headlight relay trigger signal (pulls to ground with headlights on/flash)
12- L-Y, from DOME fuse to rear cargo light output, clock, ABS ECU, etc.
13- L-Y, from DOME fuse to cruise control ECU

Looks like the most likely culprits are the ABS ECU and the Cruise Control ECU at this point.

-Charlie
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Old 02-18-2020, 06:19 PM #66
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Back off on a tangent...….

In all this work have you opened and left open the back lift gate, or even opened and closed it at all?

Maybe check the inside rubber boot for the back lift gate wires. Check the back Dome light.

These are from a 98, so consider that.



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Old 02-18-2020, 06:32 PM #67
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Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
Wonder if his EFI fuse is good?
You did solve the engine not running issue. ;)

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Old 02-18-2020, 06:41 PM #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
Back off on a tangent...….



In all this work have you opened and left open the back lift gate, or even opened and closed it at all?



Maybe check the inside rubber boot for the back lift gate wires. Check the back Dome light.



These are from a 98, so consider that.







Excellent thought. That's always the first place I check when having wiring issues as the doors are notorious for having wires break and short as the age of vehicles increase. However dome does have power when the ignition off. That definitely could be a short under that tailgate boot causing the problem.

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Old 02-22-2020, 01:59 PM #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
Ok, that's good info. Now to track down what 1J and 1F have in common.

1J connector has:

1 - R-L, 10A GAUGE fuse power output (to alternator and other stuff)
2 - R, Headlight relay trigger signal (pulls to ground when switch is ON)
3 - L-W, Power in from HORN relay
4 - B, Power to horns from HORN relay
5 - empty
6 - G, Power from TAIL relay for integration relay and interior light power
7 - R-G, LH headlight low beam ground connection to headlight switch
8 - B-W, 7.5A IGN fuse power output
9 - R-G, RH headlight low beam ground connection to headlight switch
10- G-Y, Front RH turn signal power out
11- G-B, Front LH turn signal power out
12- L-Y, Power input from 15A DOME fuse to integration relay and other systems
13- empty

1F Connector has:

1 - B-W, Door switch inputs (front RH, rear RH)
2 - B-Y, 10A Gauge fuse output gauge cluster, etc
3 - R-G, low beam headlight ground through headlight switch
4 - R-G, signal to high beam indicator
5 - empty
6 - L-R, Power Relay output to power windows and sunroof
7 - G, tail light power output / interior illumination power output
8 - R, headlight relay trigger signal (pulls to ground with headlights on/flash)
9 - empty
10- empty
11- R, headlight relay trigger signal (pulls to ground with headlights on/flash)
12- L-Y, from DOME fuse to rear cargo light output, clock, ABS ECU, etc.
13- L-Y, from DOME fuse to cruise control ECU

Looks like the most likely culprits are the ABS ECU and the Cruise Control ECU at this point.

-Charlie
Had to take some time off from this due to work and a very pregnant wife. Gonna disconnect the CC ECU and the ABS ECU to see if that fixes it. I'll report back
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Old 02-22-2020, 03:04 PM #70
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Guys, I freaking did it! I figured it out.

I tried everything I could think of. I hit a wall. I tried the latest recommendations of pulling the plug on the ABS ECU and the Cruise Control ECU today. Tested both. Neither worked. I inspected the wiring boot at the back door. Saw nothing that looked irregular.

Then, finally, I saw the Antenna Relay near the cruise control ECU. I realized I hadn't tried it. I only disconnected the antenna under the fender and moved on once that did nothing. I pulled the plug of the Antenna Relay. Tested a fuse, and Voila! The fuse didn't blow! I tried turning on my dome lights. Both are working, but again, only when switched to DOOR. Still not sure about that one since they both worked when switched to ON before. But oh well. If you have any tips on that, I'd appreciate any help I can get.

What's working now
  • Stereo
  • Door Locks
  • Dome lights (but only switched to DOOR)

My Turn Signals still aren't working, but I'm going to retest the fuses to see if that's the cause. If not, it's back to the drawing board combing the diagrams. Other than that, everything appears to be back to normal with the exception of the DOME lights not working when switched to ON.

Thanks for all your help guys! Again, this was interesting and educational. I learned a lot about the electrical system in my rig, and I'm sure Uncle G would be proud.
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Old 02-22-2020, 07:58 PM #71
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Aaaaand by some miracle the dome lights are working as they should. And I swapped the turn signal fuse although it didn't appear to be blown, and now the turn signals work. All is well now.

Off to swap the valve cover gasket next. Parts ordered. Second time doing it on a 4Runner so it should be a piece of cake.

Thanks again guys!
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Old 02-25-2020, 05:58 PM #72
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@TheDurk @Dieselchessy @plcfcng @Joelzy @Brentif @spartacus @catrains

Thanks for the help guys. Not sure if you saw my post about what it ended up being, but it was the antenna relay. You can read above for the breakdown.
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Old 02-25-2020, 06:36 PM #73
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relay has a diode DC . so the diode shorted out when the jumper cables were put on reverse.

good you did the work ... electrical work on vehicles is a person that throws parts at it.. you did a very good job.............................
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Old 02-25-2020, 10:31 PM #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anormalflame View Post
Aaaaand by some miracle the dome lights are working as they should. And I swapped the turn signal fuse although it didn't appear to be blown, and now the turn signals work. All is well now.

Off to swap the valve cover gasket next. Parts ordered. Second time doing it on a 4Runner so it should be a piece of cake.

Thanks again guys!
Just to beat the horse that won't die, you can't tell a bad fuse by LOOKING at it. Test with a test light or meter or swap a known good fuse.

Good job. There are a lot of relays, and not all of them have diodes. I would love a list of the ones that do.
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Old 02-25-2020, 11:00 PM #75
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Glad to see you got it all figured out. I knew the users would get you fixed up. Look at all you learned.

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