15a fuse blowing... also won’t start. - Page 2 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

anormalflame · 02-12-2020, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joelzy

long shot but have you checked the fusible links? i had the one near the ABS blow out and nothing worked. you can usually see if its busted through the clear top.

edit: that might be what you meant by 100a ALT

I'm far from an expert but if it were me i would start testing wiring for continuity and checking grounds until i found one that isnt registering right.

That's what I meant by 100a ALT. The fusible link.

Where would you test for continuity?

anormalflame · 02-12-2020, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brillo_76

So what all exactly dead. The dome is shorted you think. Are all other fuses intact?

Do you know how to do basic continuity tests with a meter?

Like another user suggested can you verify all the fuse link are good?

Will the engine crank when the key is in the start position?

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

Everything on the DOME circuit is dead. No interior lights, cig lighter light, floor light, personal map light, stereo, car antenna, etc.

Also, the auto door locks and turn signals aren't working. And I'm not sure what else, but I mainly notice everything on the DOME circuit not working.

I know the 100a ALT fusible link is good. I just changed it. Not sure about the ABS link. Can't tell really. Not sure that it matters, but the ABS light has been on since I owned the car.

The engine will crank in any position.
The car only wouldn't start after driving it around and later pulling into my garage to begin trying to diagnose this Dome fuse situation. Not sure if I unplugged something or what.

anormalflame · 02-12-2020, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brillo_76

So what all exactly dead. The dome is shorted you think. Are all other fuses intact?

Do you know how to do basic continuity tests with a meter?

Like another user suggested can you verify all the fuse link are good?

Will the engine crank when the key is in the start position?

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

Forgot to mention, yes I know how to do a continuity test. (Thanks Youtube) I have a basic freebie harbor freight multimeter. But I'm not sure where to test to narrow this down.

anormalflame · 02-12-2020, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phattyduck

So, something downstream of the DOME fuse is shorted.

The DOME fuse is constant power (always provides power when the battery is connected).

Things that it powers (most of which you already found):
- Interior/dome lights
- Integration relay
- Seatbelt warning
- Clock
- Cruise control (constant power, not main power)
- ABS (constant power, not main power)
- Radio and power antenna (constant power)
- Maybe a few other things I missed in the diagrams

Major suspects that might be the problem are:
- Integration relay (part of the fuse box on the drivers side under the dash)
- Cruise control
- ABS
- Radio

The lighting circuits shouldn't care if they were powered 'backwards', it will be the 'computers' in the car that would be ruined by an event like that.

You'll need to try unplugging each of those systems and see which one stops the fuse from blowing.

-Charlie

Not sure if this helps, but I tried unplugging the wires (plugs) behind the fuse box on the driver side floor board. I've narrowed it down to 1A (pg 24)
http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivi...c/relayloc.pdf

Stereo has been unplugged the whole time. No change. Unplugged the dome from interior light. No change.

ABS fusible link may be bad. I'm going to change it. The light has been on since I've owned the truck. Not sure if that could cause these issues

anormalflame · 02-12-2020, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brentif

Do you have a powered amp, aftermarket HIDs or anything aftermarket that has an external fuse? I had the exact same thing happen to me and it was blowing 15amp dome fuses like crazy. I noticed that the fuse for my powered sub was also blown. Changed that and added a new 15 amp fuse for the dome lighs, and boom, fixed.

Funny you should say that.

The only aftermarket things I have are Hella 500 lights mounted up front and wired into a switch in the dash and my double din stereo. There was one of those dumb tv / dvd players that was mounted in the ceiling for the previous owner's kid. I took it down a year ago. But recently I cut the wires that ran under the carpet and pulled them out. Really wish I would have traced them to see where it was tapped into, but I didn't. When I did that, my problems didn't begin. I had driven the truck after all that. Even after the possibility of my brother swapping cables.

Also theres a fuse tap on a red wire going into the front wire plug just under the fuse box on the driver side. The wide one. Has a 10a fuse, but I'm not sure what it's for. Maybe the tv / dvd player?

anormalflame · 02-12-2020, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartacus

Did you check the fusible links might be blown. you have to pull the fuse box out of the housing to replace those. In the middle of @sleepydad video on you tube he shows how to pull the fuse box out.
YouTube

I replaced the 100 ALT fusible link yesterday. Still no change.

I'm going to change the ABS one tonight. But honestly, I don't know much about this stuff, so I'm not sure if this could be my problem if it is bad.

anormalflame · 02-12-2020, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brillo_76

Wouldnt the rig start though if only the dome circuits were out?

I am wondering if the reverse polarity took out the ECM as to why it work start.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

Here's the thing, it ran after the possible cable switch. I drove it for several days. It wasn't until I drove it into my garage to tried to nail down this electrical issue with the lights / stereo / door locks that it wouldn't start. Worried I pulled something and can't track it down.

anormalflame · 02-12-2020, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phattyduck

Sounds like it started for a while, then stopped after some debugging.

The diagrams don't have a unified drawing that shows what goes through wire harness connectors, or the debugging would be easier...

-Charlie

Yeah it ran for a while after the incident. Wasn't until I started going down this rabbit hole testing and unplugging that it wouldn't start.

I've been using this nifty resource for diagrams
96-02 Toyota 4Runner Factory Service Repair Manual

phattyduck · 02-12-2020, 08:20 PM

Oh, my old parts truck was a '97 V6 4WD and I have a few of the parts that may be bad on your truck in the garage and I otherwise have no use for them...

Turn signals not working could just be the flasher relay.

-Charlie

Kevinscho · 02-12-2020, 08:22 PM

I am having sim issues with turning signals, no play at all.. which fuse would this be?

anormalflame · 02-12-2020, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phattyduck

The 1A connector has on it:

1 - G-Y, RH turn signal indicator power to gauge cluster
2 - G-B, LH turn signal indicator power to gauge cluster
3 - empty
4 - G, 20A Wiper fuse power to power window relay
5 - B-W, LH rear door courtesy switch
6 - G, back window control switch illumination power
7 - empty
8 - B, power output to rear window defogger from defogger relay
9 - empty
10- empty

Which is odd, since none of those seem related to your current problem?

-Charlie

Maybe I'm wrong about which one it actually is. I'm pulling the one on the top left. In every diagram I've found, that's 1A. It's the one on the left just beneath the black thingamajig (ha!) Could be 1E? Not sure. Just going off these diagrams.

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivi...c/relayloc.pdf

But in every diagram it appears to be sideways. Mine isn't.

anormalflame · 02-12-2020, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phattyduck

Oh, my old parts truck was a '97 V6 4WD and I have a few of the parts that may be bad on your truck in the garage and I otherwise have no use for them...

Turn signals not working could just be the flasher relay.

-Charlie

That's what mine is. 97 V6 4WD

anormalflame · 02-12-2020, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by catrains

put jumper cables on a dead battery in reverse,, PCM is a failure.

So for members following this screw up , you put the jumper cable on the engine block on both vehicles ... then put the positive cable on the battery positive terminal.

battery drain can be a dead battery. another cause can be a interior lamp stays on .use a clamp on current meter current should be less than 20 ma .. if its above 200MA then pull fuses to find out what circuit is the cause.

junk yard PCM is cheap but you must put the proper PCM for your model year and vehicle..

door locks have diodes so because the jumper cables were reversed then the diode will short out.
door locks have coils and the diode stops the spike surge when the lock operates..
ac compressor clutch has a diode also .. relays also have diodes across the relay coil.
this could be a very expensive mess..

that is why I clamp on the jumper ground cable to the engine block ..

Hopefully it's not busted. I have a feeling it's something one of you could knock out in an hour and I'm just not experienced enough to track it down.

I pull one plug behind the fuse box on the driver side, and the 15a Dome fuses won't blow. I believe it's 1A, but I could be wrong as the only diagram I can find is for a 2002 and I have a 97.

brillo_76 · 02-12-2020, 10:30 PM

Ah. So it did run after the dead battery. Ok.

That's a very good thing.

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plcfcng · 02-12-2020, 11:31 PM

You are kind of conflating two problems if you have a parasitic drain thats one problem if you have a idea what it is disable that item or leg (pull the bulb or the fuse) This will stop the battery drain. As long as the item is not part of the running circuit cut it out and don't worry about it for now.

Then go back to my previous comment and determine if it is spark or fuel. If you don't you will be running in circles instead of narrowing the problem. If you have the manual there is a diagnosis tic flow chart to follow.

There are many reasons why a engine won't start but it starts. If it cranks and has compression then you look at fuel and spark (as said before)

If no fuel you look at pump, or the fuel injection system (but you don't know)

Spark ECM, Timing belt, crank sensor, ect (but you don't know)

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