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Old 02-20-2020, 02:05 AM #16
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Anybody know the new part number for a OEM toyota radiator from the dealer? Seems like the one I got last time is discontinued?
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Old 02-20-2020, 05:19 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voda48 View Post
Hi all. Original owner of a 2002 Toyota 4Runner Limited. She's running on her original radiator which has developed a slow leak. The dealership is quoted me $463 for an oem radiator, so I decided to pick up a Denso radiator off Amazon

The first radiator came shipped to me within a couple of days and had two holes punched through the box. Unfortunately the radiator was compromised so I sent it back. I had them shipped me a second to radiator this one wasn't packed as well however the Box looked to be in very good condition. However as I inspected the radiator I can tell that it was dropped on its side at one point and appears to be bent a little bit.

Luckily I am not in urgent need of a radiator, however I'm trying to decide if this is going to work for me or if I should send it back. Thoughts?
Id send it back forsure!
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Old 02-20-2020, 09:01 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VernySanders View Post
I dont think I paid much more than an OEM honestly and it's worth it because it's all aluminum so if you have an auto trans your cooler will never give way
Yeah - I'm probably going to get one. I don't see why anyone would go OEM when you can get an all-metal setup.
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Old 02-21-2020, 12:13 PM #19
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Originally Posted by Endlessblockades View Post
Yeah - I'm probably going to get one. I don't see why anyone would go OEM when you can get an all-metal setup.
In addition to that it's a 3 row radiator instead of OEM two row. This does produce cooler engine temps. Noticeably. In the Michigan winter, my heat will blow warm when i let it idle for a while before driving it, but not anything near hot. Once driving of course my heat returns to hot but last winter I had the OEM radiator and it always blew hot even at idle. This shows me that especially in colder temps its evident the 3 row rad is producing an amplified cooling effect. I had no issues with the installation on mine either. Some complain about modifying this and that, no need. Bolt it in with factory bolts and run it. I've ran mine like that for almost a year now. No issues.
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Old 02-21-2020, 12:32 PM #20
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Originally Posted by VernySanders View Post
In addition to that it's a 3 row radiator instead of OEM two row. This does produce cooler engine temps. Noticeably. In the Michigan winter, my heat will blow warm when i let it idle for a while before driving it, but not anything near hot. Once driving of course my heat returns to hot but last winter I had the OEM radiator and it always blew hot even at idle. This shows me that especially in colder temps its evident the 3 row rad is producing an amplified cooling effect. I had no issues with the installation on mine either. Some complain about modifying this and that, no need. Bolt it in with factory bolts and run it. I've ran mine like that for almost a year now. No issues.


What is your engine temp when it’s blowing warm air?

Cold heater at idle and hot while driving to me is low coolant level.


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Old 02-21-2020, 02:47 PM #21
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Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
What is your engine temp when it’s blowing warm air?

Cold heater at idle and hot while driving to me is low coolant level.


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Engine temp doesn't ever quite get to the usual half way point on idle with the warm air. Unfortunately, I don't have a Scangauge or anything to provide actual temps. I would like to get one at some point.

*EDIT* I just wanted to add, once driving my temp does finally reach the half way point. I have never seen any temps over the halfway point even running down the drag strip over and over on the sand dunes in the middle of the summer with this radiator in 4LO racing from a dig through all gears in the auto trans.
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Old 02-21-2020, 04:19 PM #22
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Ii say if new you should get new. But I think SOME pressing of the fins is going to be on par with buying from anywhere

I chose the all aluminum 3 row from Champion. Which is supposed to be direct fit-bolt on. It's close but it is not perfect and requires some know how and modification
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Old 02-21-2020, 04:31 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyrecluse View Post
I chose the all aluminum 3 row from Champion. Which is supposed to be direct fit-bolt on. It's close but it is not perfect and requires some know how and modification
lol, not much. Cut off the "ears" (or bend them out of the way), hold in place while threading all 4 bolts before snugging any down. Snug down, connect hoses, fill.

Some folks don't like the rivnuts on the rad, so they remove and replace with a normal nut. Some have tweaked radiator supports so the holes don't line up, remove rivnuts, oval out the hole a Little, use a normal nut (blue loctite or a locking nut please). It's all what I'd normally consider "common sense", though it seems ot be getting less and less common as the years pass...
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