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Old 02-19-2020, 04:53 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStudt View Post
Yes, that could be the cause of your issue. Especially if it's been torn for a while, dried up, and had debris in the CV.

Also, a leaking axle is visible without having to put forth any work. Just look at the inside of your rear tires. You'll see the fluid running down the tire.

Mike
Thanks for response on boots. Ill have on lift this weekend and verify if shop was correct.

Yes thats first thing I checked when bought it and was bone dry on all areas, tires rims etc and thought maybe wasnt making its way out and pulled all 4 corners and all dry.
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Old 02-19-2020, 05:26 PM #17
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Originally Posted by 97Cruiser40th View Post
Thanks for response on boots. Ill have on lift this weekend and verify if shop was correct.

Yes thats first thing I checked when bought it and was bone dry on all areas, tires rims etc and thought maybe wasnt making its way out and pulled all 4 corners and all dry.
OK, then a bad seal isn't the issue.

I ran a CV bone dry for about 3k miles with only noise, and sometimes the noisy you described. You'll get to a point where the CV will start to bind, and that could be what you're hearing. Something else to consider would be a ball joint. They'll pop once the grease is gone, and usually in situations like what you described as well.

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Old 02-20-2020, 08:22 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStudt View Post
OK, then a bad seal isn't the issue.

I ran a CV bone dry for about 3k miles with only noise, and sometimes the noisy you described. You'll get to a point where the CV will start to bind, and that could be what you're hearing. Something else to consider would be a ball joint. They'll pop once the grease is gone, and usually in situations like what you described as well.

Mike
Thanks

Took truck this AM and the sound was very loud and sounds clearly seems and felt like coming from rear but again only happened when shift into drive did not do it in reverse.

LBJ's brand new in November. It still perplexes me the experience only happens in drive i would think it would happen in reverse too
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Old 02-20-2020, 11:12 AM #19
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Originally Posted by 97Cruiser40th View Post
Thanks

Took truck this AM and the sound was very loud and sounds clearly seems and felt like coming from rear but again only happened when shift into drive did not do it in reverse.

LBJ's brand new in November. It still perplexes me the experience only happens in drive i would think it would happen in reverse too
If it's the rear it can only be a couple things doing this. Either the drive shaft of rear differential. You've already eliminated a leaking rear seal, and pretty sure I read something about the drive shaft too. For the hell of it, check your transmission fluid level, and see how that looks.

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Old 02-20-2020, 11:43 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStudt View Post
If it's the rear it can only be a couple things doing this. Either the drive shaft of rear differential. You've already eliminated a leaking rear seal, and pretty sure I read something about the drive shaft too. For the hell of it, check your transmission fluid level, and see how that looks.

Mike
Thanks Mike.

Also this morning in the cold another noise has come back but think its suspension related almost like loose shock mount or body mount or panhard bar would sound. Sound is very clearly in rear and appears above rear wheels. Think just need to rearrange cars and put on lift and investigate, who knows all this may be related somehow
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Old 02-20-2020, 01:35 PM #21
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Originally Posted by 97Cruiser40th View Post
Thanks Mike.

Also this morning in the cold another noise has come back but think its suspension related almost like loose shock mount or body mount or panhard bar would sound. Sound is very clearly in rear and appears above rear wheels. Think just need to rearrange cars and put on lift and investigate, who knows all this may be related somehow
You shouldn't hear anything from a body mount, and at least I wouldn't think so. Having a loose upper nut on the rear shocks will cause, but more like an annoying rattle/clanking sound.

Another to check would be your control arms. If you have a bushing that's shot that could cause noise when changing gear.

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Old 02-20-2020, 01:59 PM #22
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Is the "clunk" only when shifting to drive or when first driving off? Does it ever also do it after a hard stop at a stoplight, and as soon as you let off the brake and press the gas it clunks again?

If that's when you hear, have your mechanic hit the slip joint on the rear driveshaft with about 10 pumps of moly grease. That'll quiet it up. When it runs out of grease (notice I didn't say if, but when) it'll cause the slip join to "clunk" as it fully extends upon takeoff.
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Old 02-20-2020, 09:32 PM #23
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Gamefreak is on a good track. I think that or universals are likely suspects. But dont discount a body problem. Had a truck with a funky thunk at odd times. Turned out to be a screwdriver that had slipped down between cab and bed. Pain in the butt to get it out.
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Old 02-21-2020, 09:08 AM #24
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Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
Is the "clunk" only when shifting to drive or when first driving off? Does it ever also do it after a hard stop at a stoplight, and as soon as you let off the brake and press the gas it clunks again?

If that's when you hear, have your mechanic hit the slip joint on the rear driveshaft with about 10 pumps of moly grease. That'll quiet it up. When it runs out of grease (notice I didn't say if, but when) it'll cause the slip join to "clunk" as it fully extends upon takeoff.
The "experience" only happens on cold start when I put into Drive and move forward. If I shift to Reverse first and back up there is no issue but in the same sequence when I then shift into Drive it does that bang but only when I accelerate. It feels like something is holding it back then bang it frees and we move forward. The experience is exactly like a seized parking brake to rotor when it frees, its that jarring.

No experience like you mention at all so far. I think the shoes may be inferior or previously compromised and while does not appear axle seal leaking I grabbed some OEM shoes and kit and will replace shortly. I just cant believe it could be anything else.

Last edited by 97Cruiser40th; 02-21-2020 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 02-28-2020, 12:30 PM #25
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So last Saturday in the cold I had same experience on initial start where reverse did not elicit an issue but as I shifted into Drive the noise was evident.

The change now was after that initial start I drove a few yards and parked in front of my house. Then I put into Drive and this time I got same banging but they were not in sync. Each wheel had loud bang sounding like it was releasing. NONE of these behaviors the e-brake was NOT used.

The shop was able to replicate the issue but unable to identify any issues at all. They indicated the shoes etc "look" new but I have no records. Again it only has 71k miles. Am I wrong to keep pursuing the brakes?

My question is if PO replaced shoes with Non OEM shoes could that be an issue? Also seems OEM drums remain but unsure 100%. If so would it help to replace shoes and hardware and have drums milled/machined or swap out with new drums? I hate throwing parts at vehicles but I cant align my issues with anything else that makes sense.
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Old 02-28-2020, 01:13 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Cruiser40th View Post
So last Saturday in the cold I had same experience on initial start where reverse did not elicit an issue but as I shifted into Drive the noise was evident.

The change now was after that initial start I drove a few yards and parked in front of my house. Then I put into Drive and this time I got same banging but they were not in sync. Each wheel had loud bang sounding like it was releasing. NONE of these behaviors the e-brake was NOT used.

The shop was able to replicate the issue but unable to identify any issues at all. They indicated the shoes etc "look" new but I have no records. Again it only has 71k miles. Am I wrong to keep pursuing the brakes?

My question is if PO replaced shoes with Non OEM shoes could that be an issue? Also seems OEM drums remain but unsure 100%. If so would it help to replace shoes and hardware and have drums milled/machined or swap out with new drums? I hate throwing parts at vehicles but I cant align my issues with anything else that makes sense.
Two loud bangs has to be brakes, I can't think of any other components that would do it twice.

If you pull the drums you'll probably find they are pitted. Mine were trashed for some reason, and my rig was hardly ever used off-road. I'd start there since have two drums turned should only cost around $40. That alone should rule out if it's the rear brakes since after they are turned, the surface has a very slightly abrasive surface that should keep the shoes from sticking, if that is indeed it.
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Old 02-28-2020, 01:16 PM #27
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Take it to a shop that has several lifts and have them find the problem. Get oil and filter at same time.

Could be a wheel bearing. Could be front alignment part (bushing) needing replacement.

What year? Hoe many miles?

My advice too. go to alignment shop.
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Old 05-11-2020, 02:40 PM #28
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Resurrecting my old thread as the issue still hasnt resolved itself even with warmer weather. I came up with another possibility I'd like to float by and thats the bell cranks but again oddly enough my PB works without issue but I did use it this AM released it and can still feel something dragging then dragging is gone and no issue after driving a few week. So I am 99.9% sure has something to do with brakes and ordered rebuild kit for brakes to include new cylinders but wondered if it could be in fact the bell cranks partially seized.

So my question is 2 fold could it be the bell cranks and/or the actual cable itself? How to verify in either case?
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