I would also suggest you look for obvious signs of wear or chew marks from rodents. Good luck. Electrical issues are never fun.

Thanks for the diagrams, I appreciate it!

Looks like I'm off to a strong start with my terminology haha. Yikes. I think @Bad Luck got me squared away with the diagrams.

The only other aftermarket wiring in the truck is for my sub/amp and two aftermarket light switches (that aren't currently running any accessories) that I tapped into the cluster dimmer switch so they would light up with the dash lights. I need to go buy some more 10A fuses before I can start testing, thought I had another box.

Will do, thanks!

That's EXACTLY where I got the list I posted in Post #9 above.

Well I think I found the source of the issue at the tailgate wiring harness...any opinions on repairing vs replacing?

Untitled by Fishwerks., on Flickr

Just fix it. Extremely common for the tailgate and door jam wiring to do that.




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Use uninsulated crimps and then solder the crimp and shrink tube the crimp. This way won’t shorten the harness.

Solder the connections no matter what you do.

My 04 Grand Cherokee had this happen in the door jams and I extended them 3”.


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Is there trick to get that damn runner grommet back in place?!


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Yeah I have seen a couple threads on the same issue just in the last couple days, thanks.

Thanks for the suggestion, seems like a good idea. I'm thinking I may need to splice new wiring on both sides away from that location since the wires bend so much, like this video by @mtbtim and @infamousRNR - YouTube

In this video that @mtbtim and @infamousRNR conveniently just posted a couple days ago, they pull-up the plastic surround in the body, attach the grommet to the plastic surround and then put the whole thing back into place at 16:38 into the video - YouTube

Hi, trying to resolve the same burnt ECU-IG fuse issue on my 2002. Thanks for the diagrams and list of circuits on that fuse. Where can I find the 1G connector on the back of the junction box? Do you (anybody) have a diagram of the connectors?

There's a very useful item out now, especially handy for situations where you do not need the wires shortened, but making them longer isn't really a viable option either. Like repairing the rear door wires in the above picture. It's a piece of FIT-200 heat shrink, no meltwall inside, with a tube of solder in the middle. When you shrink down the heat shrink, the solder melts, soldering the wires together. Voila! Two pieces in one, with soldering the wires, and heat shrinking the join happen at once. I believe some even have a crimp tube outside the solder, but I may be wrong on that.

Soldering the join IS always a good idea, but ensuring you have a good mechanical connection is also vital to a good repair. In other words, and I learned to do this in my first soldering class in the Corps, tinning the wires, making a hook out of each one, and crimping them tight to each other, is the first step to making a good repair of broken wires. The instructor liked to stand on one end of the wire, and hoist up on the other to test the solder joins we made.

Sadly, that method shortens the wires, which is a bad thing in this situation. The heat shrink/solder tube item removes the need to prep the wires by hooking them together. No shortening of the wire. Unfortunately, the mechanical connection IS weaker, but not a lot. Just make sure you use the right size heat shrink to fit the wire correctly. It should be just big enough to go over the wire's insulation. That will be the strongest mechanical join.

Tin the wires, if at all possible, before inserting them into the tube. This will help ensure the solder join is the best possible, and will allow the solder to flow into the wires better. Also, using a good liquid flux will make the solder flow evenly, ensuring the best solder join possible.

The solder/heat shrink items are available from Grainger, and McMaster-Carr, either individually, or in kit form. Very reasonable prices.

Sorry, I ramble on this subject, having been a radar technician, and shop supervisor during my career.
Good luck to you!
Pat☺

Funny - I've been getting non-stop ads on IG for SolderStick wire connectors. I kinda thought they were just more cheap Chinese junk but there is certainly a place for them. It's funny - I no longer carry a lighter but I carry a cordless heat gun in my rig....... getting old is a trip. Probably gonna grab a box of them or similar.

How about another "ad" for McMaster-carr?

McMaster-Carr

A short...ok, really long...search-through, you'll see what I meant. Both FIT-200, and FIT-300 heat shrink butt splices. Solder in center, and just basic crimp-on. I strongly reccomend solder in center. Much better electrical connection, and will last much longer. If you have a soldering iron, and know what you're doing, tinning the wire before inserting will make the solder flow better.

If you want some advice on what to do with what, as far as soldering goes, I'll be happy to write up an instruction manual on proper soldering techniques. I fear I may get a trifle long winded about it, but you WILL know the correct techniques to solder anything when I get done
It takes about a $50.00 initial layout for a decent soldering kit, but after that, you'll be golden.

Pat