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Old 02-22-2020, 11:27 PM #1
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2000 SR5 - A Variety of Electrical Issues

Hi All,

Preface - My 4Runner is a 2000 SR5, 3.4 V6 with auto transmission. It has a Hopkins trailer wiring kit installed.



All of the issues outlined below began simultaneously two weekends back, just now getting to troubleshooting. Truck was parked in the garage, hadn't been driven in approximately one week. I started it, pulled it out the garage, then put it in park and shut it off (no issues at this time). After about an hour of sitting outside (no rain or anything) I was going to leave the house and the following issues presented themselves when I restarted the truck and tried to leave:
- Auto transmission will not come out of park without using the override button near the shifter.
(I have checked that the STOP fuse is good, brake lights operating correctly)

- ABS light on, P0500 CEL code, cruise control inoperable, speedometer inoperable.
(these all should be related to the ABS system malfunctioning)

- Power windows inoperable from all switches, including lift gate window.
(The lift gate window works with the key fob button and using key in the tailgate)

- Defroster switch inoperable.
(light does not come on)

- Door ajar light does not come on when any door is opened
It's possible other electrical bits are not working correctly, the list above is what I have found up to now. The following pieces are working normally - power locks, power mirror adjustment, ECT button, exterior lights, interior lights, stereo/speakers, and HVAC. Truck runs and shifts normally when driven. No electrical work has been done in over a year.

About one year ago I tubbed the firewall for 35s, so angle grinder/welding debris was created near the electrical connectors in the kick panels (I wrapped them and moved them away from the immediate area to protect them from debris and heat at the time). And I tipped the truck on its side in Moab last March. I have been driving the truck about once a week since then with no electrical issues, but trying to be thorough.

I was going to start chasing each issue down separately, but it seems pretty suspect that all the issues popped up at once. Looking for advice on diagnosis and order of operations. Hoping @TheDurk , @IBallEngineer , and other electrical gurus can lend their time and knowledge.

Thanks in advance, I have a feeling this is going to get messy.
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Last edited by Fishwerks; 02-22-2020 at 11:32 PM.
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Old 02-23-2020, 03:02 AM #2
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Do the dome lights come on with the switches on the lights themselves?

Check these fuses:

ECU-B
ECU-IG
DOME
MPX-B
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Old 02-23-2020, 11:31 AM #3
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I would first start with cleaning the Batt terminals. Then make sure that all the Grounds are clean and tight. After that you could start chasing wires. Also take a good look at the Batt Cables.
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Old 02-23-2020, 01:40 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk View Post
Do the dome lights come on with the switches on the lights themselves?

Check these fuses:

ECU-B
ECU-IG
DOME
MPX-B
Yes the dome lights come on with the switches.

Good lesson to check fuses first...ECU-B, DOME, and MPX-B all tested good. But the ECU-IG fuse was blown. Replaced ECU-IG fuse and now the transmission comes out of park, defroster button works, and all of the window switches work. Had no idea that fuse played a role in all those.

The door ajar light is still not lighting up.

Thanks for the help so far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by plcfcng View Post
I would first start with cleaning the Batt terminals. Then make sure that all the Grounds are clean and tight. After that you could start chasing wires. Also take a good look at the Batt Cables.
Thanks, checked battery connections and they are clean and tight. No visible issues on the battery cables. Made some progress with a fuse above (since I'm not smart enough to check the easy stuff first apparently).
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Last edited by Fishwerks; 02-23-2020 at 08:28 PM. Reason: Fixed rear window switch.
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Old 02-23-2020, 05:25 PM #5
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Do you have rodent issues? It sounds like either an entire connector or wiring harness was cut/shorted.
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Old 02-23-2020, 08:26 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
Do you have rodent issues? It sounds like either an entire connector or wiring harness was cut/shorted.
That was my first thought, I haven't found anything obvious yet and haven't had issues with rodents in the garage before. But still seems possible. The ECU-IG fuse was blown which fixed a few of the issues, but not the door ajar light. ABS seems like it should be separate from the other issues.

Can anyone check if the door ajar light comes in with the key in the ignition in the ON position, without starting the truck? I know it doesn't need the key in to light up normally, but I'm wondering if the bulb is toast.
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Last edited by Fishwerks; 02-25-2020 at 01:05 AM. Reason: ABS issue resolved
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Old 02-23-2020, 11:49 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishwerks View Post
Yes the dome lights come on with the switches.

Good lesson to check fuses first...ECU-B, DOME, and MPX-B all tested good. But the ECU-IG fuse was blown. Replaced ECU-IG fuse and now the transmission comes out of park, defroster button works, and all of the window switches work. Had no idea that fuse played a role in all those.

The door ajar light is still not lighting up.

Thanks for the help so far.
But do the dome lights come on when the doors are opened? That is, the dash light for door ajar is the only thing left to fix?

And kudos for TESTING fuses. My pet peeve is 'the fuses looked good'
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Last edited by TheDurk; 02-23-2020 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 02-24-2020, 12:23 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk View Post
But do the dome lights come on when the doors are opened? That is, the dash light for door ajar is the only thing left to fix?

And kudos for TESTING fuses. My pet peeve is 'the fuses looked good'
Yes the dome lights are working normally, i.e. when set to "door" they come on when a door is opened but the light in the dash/gauge cluster does not come on. It also does not come on when the key is set to ON, so maybe the bulb went out?

And thanks, I learned the ways of testing fuses and connections a couple years back when you and @IBallEngineer helped me diagnose a fried gauge cluster (which has been replaced for the record).
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