Last weekend I did my timing belt & water pump on my 5VZ, & now I have a no crank issue. I'm getting fuel, I don't know about spark. I did however re-check the timing belt by pulling the top cover back & set the crank to TDC. I manually turned the assembly to have the crank at TDC, passenger side was at TDC, but driver side was at BDC. I'm pretty stumped as to how that happened, other than maybe the belt slipped a tooth on installation b/c everything was at TDC when I initially installed the belt. *I DID NOT rotate the assembly before buttoning everything up to make sure everything lined back up at TDC, like a rookie.* Ok, after thinking this over for a couple days, shouldn't the cam pulley & crank pulley always register at the same location after being set to TDC & the belt installed properly? In other words, if the crank (via TDC indicator notch) is at 3 o'clock, then the cams (via TDC indicator mark) should be at 3 o'clock? Correct?
That being said, (seems like I remember reading this somewhere previously) if the driver side is 180* out of timing won't that effect spark? As in the ECM won't allow the igniter to send the correct signal to the coils to create spark??

If I'm wrong in any of this, feel free to correct me. Gotta get this truck running this weekend.

The cams rotate at half the speed of the crank so it will take several full rotations for the marks to line up. If the timing was off by a tooth the engine will crank and even start and stumble. No crank meaning motor won't turn over that leads me to think it's an electrical issue. start with battery cables, fuses relays etc.

As said, after installation, forget the belt marks. They will rarely line up. Just rely on the hard marks. Those are what count, anyway.

That 180° out of phase thing is only relevant to old time distributor ignitions. The crank just needs to be at TDC when the cam marks align up top. The ECU using the crank and cam sensors takes it from there.

I suggest you check the plug wire routing. Easy to mess up putting it back together if you messed with it and also the engine ground by the diagnostic plug. Two things often missed when doing any engine job.

Then verify all vacuum and electrical connections, including MAF and crank sensor plugs.

Even if the timing was all out of wack, it should still turn over. You said there is a "no crank issue" meaning it doesn't even try to turn over. Or do you mean it turns over (it try's to start) but fails to start up? Double check your work and make sure you plugged everything back in and that you didn't miss something.

Should be an easy fix.

Good luck

Yes, it sounds like you made a big mistake not verifying everything lined up after installing the belt. If the crankshaft pulley notch is lined up with the zero on the timing cover behind it and one crank pulley notch is lined up with it's respective timing cover notch behind it while the other is off 180 degrees, you obviously didn't do it right. With the crankshaft timing gear lined up with the mark on the oil pump housing behind it, the camshaft pulley notches will either be at 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock position. For every two full revolutions of the crankshaft timing gear, the camshaft pulleys will turn one full revolution. This is why after getting the belt on you want to turn over the crankshaft two full revolutions and verify the camshaft pulley notches are lined up with their respective timing marks on the #3 timing cover behind it. Once you've verified the crankshaft timing gear and camshaft pulleys line up with their respective timing marks, you are then safe to reassemble the engine.

Like the @TheDurk said, the lines on the belt will only realign every so often and those aren't important. They are only there to help you get the belt on properly. Once the belt is on, you only need to pay attention to the crankshaft timing gear and camshaft pulleys lining up correctly with their timing marks.

Thanks for everyone's input. Just to clarify, I am experiencing a *NO START* issue, not a no crank issue. The engine would crank just fine. Sorry if I mudded that up. After finally getting a chance to completely remove the top timing belt cover, I was incorrect about the 180* part on the driver side. My initial inspection, I didn't have the cover completely removed. However, with everything removed, I'm certainly off several degrees.
With the cams at TDC via the marks on the cam plate, this is where the crank pulley lands:


With the crank at TDC, this is where my R & L cam pulleys land:
Right


Left


I'll be pulling the belt back off tomorrow & setting everything back to TDC & double checking my work before I start buttoning everything back up. Again, thanks for everyone's insight.

Well, you found your problem. Hopefully everything is fine after you get the timing right.

You gotta love it that the 5V isn't a interference fit engine.
Looks like it's only a tooth off on the crank. I think it should've have started, it would've barely run though.

Yea I miss timed my daughters 2004 4Runner with a 4.0 V-6 I ended up having to take back the heads back to the machine shop to have new valves put in it.