02-29-2020, 01:03 AM
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#31
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Georgia
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02-29-2020, 03:34 PM
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#34
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Grand Rapids
Age: 28
Posts: 489
Real Name: Werner
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Grand Rapids
Age: 28
Posts: 489
Real Name: Werner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
Fluid Film dosent cause things to rust. That was what the forum users point they were trying to make. If that point was missed. It needs to be stressed.
Everyone has their opinions on things as well as have their methods of preventing oxidation.
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Ignorance is bliss Brillo! If anything, anyone convinced of this will only ask us how we keep our runners so mint ;)
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The dunes got boring because I couldn't jump. I'm not the type to enjoy someone else's vehicle. So i'm in the process of making making the dunes no longer boring. I guess that involves jumping.... A lot.
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02-29-2020, 09:11 PM
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#35
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 223
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Portland, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogtail
Yeah do full spray of WD40, I spray everything before every winter. Super cheap and easy and only takes 30 minutes. No rust at 389K on my 99 chassis and body living in the salt belt.
SEASONAL RUST PROOFING using WD-40 only
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I sprayed it with WD-40 and other parts of the frame last spring. It seem to stick for about 6 months. I guess it’s enough time for winter in the salt belt states.
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02-29-2020, 09:22 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Yukon
Posts: 1,317
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Yukon
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I personally wouldn't spray fluid film in any door cavities, tailgate, or rocker panels because of the smell. This is likely personal tastes/or dislikes.
I use fluid film everywhere else but use less smelly products for any space leading to the interior. Rust Cure 3000 is an excellent and less smelly alternative.
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-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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02-29-2020, 09:35 PM
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#37
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 223
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Portland, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VernySanders
hit this with a descaler. dont be afraid to puncture it. if you puncture it now its better than roadkill doing it LOL. But honestly though, that thing is far from being rusted through, even in the salt belt usually when they rust through its more of a pinhole than anything because once the diff fluid leaks out theres no more rusting. I just got done pounding on a housing that looked far worse to get the corroded elocker out of it. Hit it with a 5lb dead blow for at least 30 minutes while torching all around to break free the gasket seal. worst comes to worst, get marlin crawlers armor welded onto it. ive got a quality locker housing and im adding eimkeiths supports to it in addition to the housing armor and locker armor before i install it.
EDIT: My rule of thumb living in michigan, if factory paint is still present, you've got a brand new vehicle component still! I joke, but I don't joke.
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I should just take off that paint layer of rust because it’s pretty much flaking off. I’ve just heard these pumpkin covers are thin and figured picking at the scab will make it worse. I have the e-locker as well and I hope it never gives me trouble because the unit looks brittle and rusted pretty bad. Side-note, I love the elocker and feel fortunate to have it.
I’m glad they don’t use salt just plow, sand and gravel in Oregon on the mountain passes. But it sure is slippery and if you don’t have 4wd or Awd you’ll need to chain up. I was back in Wisconsin visiting last thanksgiving and they got a few inches of snow and forgot how much salt melts ice and snow. Makes it a lot easier for 2wd cars and all those shit talkers in the Midwest thinking they can drive in the snow .
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02-29-2020, 09:39 PM
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#38
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 223
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Portland, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoe
I personally wouldn't spray fluid film in any door cavities, tailgate, or rocker panels because of the smell. This is likely personal tastes/or dislikes.
I use fluid film everywhere else but use less smelly products for any space leading to the interior. Rust Cure 3000 is an excellent and less smelly alternative.
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It smells like beer that got soaked up in the carpet at a house party.
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02-29-2020, 10:11 PM
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#39
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Elite Member
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,035
Real Name: Jon
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Join Date: May 2017
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My buddy says it smells like stale piss. I sprayed in on internal panels. Smells for a few weeks to a month. I can understand folks wanting to use something else. I would head to a cosmoline based product that hardens slightly more as FF will not.
I just wanted to document my experiments with Fluid film. I also know its best to use semi solids for rust prevention and paints as an indicator. Semisolids can move and flow which helps protect metal for better then most products ever will. However, lots of products are semi solids.
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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02-29-2020, 11:01 PM
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#40
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Georgia
Posts: 48
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Georgia
Posts: 48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boognish_Forever
It smells like beer that got soaked up in the carpet at a house party.
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Bumpkins in BFE love fluidfilm
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02-29-2020, 11:32 PM
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#41
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Georgia
Posts: 48
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Join Date: Feb 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabloomf1230
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Just don't get it on your exhaust, highly flammable grease fire warnings in the MSDS
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03-01-2020, 12:07 AM
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#42
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Elite Member
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
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Real Name: Jon
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Join Date: May 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squint_Eastwood
Just don't get it on your exhaust, highly flammable grease fire warnings in the MSDS
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In the aerosol can it contains propellants. The propellants are highly flammable. Is fluid film slightly flammable yes. However, mostly things cant be welded on when they are extremely flammable.
Yet I have welded through fluid film and it burns super slowly as it evaporates off the steel.
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__________________
7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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03-01-2020, 12:53 AM
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#43
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 92
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squint_Eastwood
Just don't get it on your exhaust, highly flammable grease fire warnings in the MSDS
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This may be possible, but I've covered the driver's side manifold with it while trying to coat the UCA pivot and have no ill effects to report. Smoked a bit and smelled even worse than non-burning FF, but no fire.
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10 4Runner Trail - Dobinsons IMS, Spidertrax, C4 Fab Lo Pro bumper, Prinsu full rack, etc.
91 Celica All-Trac - tons of mods
99 Miata -makes supercharger noises
83 CJ7 - 304 swap w/tbi, 33's, still broken
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03-01-2020, 09:19 AM
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#44
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Member
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 648
Real Name: Keith
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Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 648
Real Name: Keith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boognish_Forever
I sprayed it with WD-40 and other parts of the frame last spring. It seem to stick for about 6 months. I guess it’s enough time for winter in the salt belt states.
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I've been spraying my rig with WD40 for years, so my coating is pretty much infused. Def works great for a rust barrier when done right.
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*1999 3.4L, 4wd/5spd, swapped motor and trans, heavy use DD, seasonal rust proofing using WD-40 only
*2000 3.4L, 4wd/5spd, parts rig, picking the carcass
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03-01-2020, 09:32 AM
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#45
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Grand Rapids
Age: 28
Posts: 489
Real Name: Werner
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Grand Rapids
Age: 28
Posts: 489
Real Name: Werner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boognish_Forever
I should just take off that paint layer of rust because it’s pretty much flaking off. I’ve just heard these pumpkin covers are thin and figured picking at the scab will make it worse. I have the e-locker as well and I hope it never gives me trouble because the unit looks brittle and rusted pretty bad. Side-note, I love the elocker and feel fortunate to have it.
I’m glad they don’t use salt just plow, sand and gravel in Oregon on the mountain passes. But it sure is slippery and if you don’t have 4wd or Awd you’ll need to chain up. I was back in Wisconsin visiting last thanksgiving and they got a few inches of snow and forgot how much salt melts ice and snow. Makes it a lot easier for 2wd cars and all those shit talkers in the Midwest thinking they can drive in the snow .
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oh my goodness!!!! I'm not at all playing into a stereotype, however, female drivers out here make me so angry. They think cause they have awd they can go a million miles an hour and then cry and want a pitty party when they end up in the ditch. People in the midwest can barely drive in a severe rainstorm let alone snow LOL. My grandparents live in Montana, so im familiar with the sand and gravel. Sand and gravel actually makes sense and doesnt corrode away vehicles and water pipes underground lol.
__________________
The dunes got boring because I couldn't jump. I'm not the type to enjoy someone else's vehicle. So i'm in the process of making making the dunes no longer boring. I guess that involves jumping.... A lot.
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