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Old 03-23-2020, 05:38 PM #16
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That McPherson strut style spring compressor pic is why I haven’t changed out my 650 lb SAW coils for some 600 lb I have collecting dust lol
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Old 03-23-2020, 07:40 PM #17
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Originally Posted by Dezert4Runner View Post
That McPherson strut style spring compressor pic is why I haven’t changed out my 650 lb SAW coils for some 600 lb I have collecting dust lol
yeah, it was a bit uncomfortable. I've done it before but its never less scary and those are 700lb coils. The ends of the compressors are also ground out a little to match the coil diameter and the coil wire thickness. They wouldn't hold before. But truth be told I actually found a way to do the compression and decompression in my press so the compressors are only acting as holders. I gently remove them and set them somewhere safe when working on the shocks.
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Old 03-25-2020, 02:40 AM #18
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Finished up the spring loaded position lock today. Tied into the latch so if the latch is in the locked position and the gate swings it will lock into one of the detents, and when the latch is in the unlock position it swings freely.





Made a cam bolt for the jack mount as well so that I don't need tools to remove and replace it. Drilling a hole in it will allow me to lock it too.



Just here for the nice chip it made.
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Old 03-25-2020, 09:58 AM #19
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exactly as MN4runnerman said. its pretty much a self contained unit so really its just supplying power, ground, and running the wires and placing the sensor for the outside temp. it was super easy to install. I just picked up a double din mount bracket at pep boys and it took about 3 hrs one evening after work. The calibration procedures can be found online but, the only bummer is that it defaults to barometric pressure reading with key cycle. it is only one button to see altitude in FT though so I can't complain much. what else would you like to know about it.
Love this mod!

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Old 03-25-2020, 10:26 AM #20
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I like that dome light! Can you tell us more about the installation and the wiring? Would like to try this. Looks like you got some good bulbs in there too.
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Old 03-25-2020, 08:13 PM #21
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I like that dome light! Can you tell us more about the installation and the wiring? Would like to try this. Looks like you got some good bulbs in there too.
yeah. The light is out of a early 2000s f250-350 although I think there in the crewcab f150s too. The wiring isn't totally straight forward since ford tends to use the mounting screws as ground and if I remember correctly switches the hot instead of the ground like Toyota, or vis versa. so to mount it I had to mount it to the trim peice and not use the factory mounting points to ensure no ground contact. I did use the one of the factory screw holes as a ground. (the green wire off the ford plug) The red wire is just a lazy tap for a charge port found in the later models passenger panel that I use for charging specialty work tools. I also had to trim out the 4runner trim piece to allow access to the screws for the cover.



As far as the wiring there is a blue and yellow wire is a constant 12v. so that is pretty straight forward and connected to the center of the ford plug which distributes to all 3 bulbs. The local ground on the green wire is for the two reading lamps. And heres where it gets screwy the switched ground. I can't remember why and I remember digging into it, but the last wire (factory red and white) actually has a slightly reduced 11.5v on it in my case only when the front dome light is in the "door" position and the door is closed. I believe its feed back from the front bulb, but it still acts as a switched ground when the hatch is opened. With a led in position it doesn't matter since its directional anyway. everything works the way its supposed to so I go with it.




I also taped off and silver painted the "reflector" area of each bulb.
I'm just using the zevo leds from auto zone. While it was a significant improvement over the factory dome light but I will say that the best modification I did for working out of the truck was the rock lights in the hatch. I find that since I installed those I rarely switch on the reading lights in the hatch, and all the necessary power and ground for them is contained in the hatch already.

now you've got me curious about the feedback again. need to pull up the dome light diagram.
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Old 03-25-2020, 11:47 PM #22
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Finished up the spring loaded position lock today. Tied into the latch so if the latch is in the locked position and the gate swings it will lock into one of the detents, and when the latch is in the unlock position it swings freely.
This is pretty dang cool!
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Old 03-30-2020, 03:37 PM #23
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Nice find on the truck, especially with the host of parts that were already installed. You've added some tasteful mods since then as well. Always like that color brown too!
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Old 12-28-2020, 03:00 AM #24
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finally got around to fabbing the upper mounts to put these 2.5" kings outside the frame rail.

IMG_1115

IMG_1116

IMG_1117

IMG_1113

also working on retrofitting matching 255lph pumps into both tanks. hoping the factory Toyota tank will be much simpler than getting it into the f150 tank has been.

IMG_1127

IMG_1125
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Old 12-30-2020, 08:00 PM #25
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Why do you want a higher flow rate for your fuel pumps? Does the OEM pump not provide enough flow while going up a hill?
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Old 12-30-2020, 08:42 PM #26
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OP, are you the same Kirk from Yotatech?
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Old 12-31-2020, 03:38 AM #27
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OP, are you the same Kirk from Yotatech?
Nope, not me.
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Old 12-31-2020, 03:48 AM #28
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Why do you want a higher flow rate for your fuel pumps? Does the OEM pump not provide enough flow while going up a hill?
Well, it seems to be so. I’m starving out and going lean on wide open throttle at around 4K only on the auxiliary tank.

I’m also considering going supercharged as well. So the reasoning behind it is I need at least a 190lph for that and I’d like to have both pumps be the same for ease of fuel mapping. Unfortunately the 190 is actually physically a bit large and space is an issue in the auxiliary tank. The deatchwerks was physically the smallest I could find with a 190lph or higher. I did consider a frame mount pump but then I would have to alter my fuel lines to still switch the tanks on the fly as well as some experiences telling me to avoid it.

Maybe I’m overthinking it and I could just swap a new pump into the Ford sender but... down the rabbit hole I go.
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Old 01-10-2021, 10:55 PM #29
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Well you're right, the Ford pump can't keep up with wot at 4k rpms on my rig either. Good thing I found out now instead of while trying to pass someone on highway 38...
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Old 01-12-2021, 01:22 AM #30
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Well you're right, the Ford pump can't keep up with wot at 4k rpms on my rig either. Good thing I found out now instead of while trying to pass someone on highway 38...
Exactly where I first noticed it.

Also... my cup doesn’t cut it. So i invested in a Holley hydramat had plans to put that in this past weekend but the reality of finding weak links while off-roading struck on Friday. I’ll add pictures of that later.
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