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Old 03-06-2020, 02:09 AM #1
Kirk D Kirk D is offline
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Kirks build thread

Purchased for $3500 it came to me with 209K mi, manual transmission, 4.88 gears with spartan lockers front and rear, 285/75r16s mounted on 80 series aluminum 5 spoke rims, shaved upper control arms, 1” BL, Toytec coilovers, OME rear coils, Outdoor Logic front bumper, and OL boat sliders made to have UHMWPE mounted on them. It had STI seats, CB radio/megaphone, shorty antenna, and a Kicker audio system. Some of that was done by a previous owner who had a thread on it here. SoCal's Build Thread I believe that there was more than one owner between us though.




Gears had been grenaded and I couldn’t drive it when I bought it but the intent was to help me and a friend out at the same time with it. He had a 97 that he wanted to manual swap and I needed something that I was willing to drive on long road trips with my wife. She doesn’t like manual transmission and needed to drive occasionally when she was feeling carsick. Her chevy cruze wasn’t going to cut it. Sorry, I still feel the need to justify to myself why I made it an automatic.

We began the swap and I finished it up in about a week. A lot was traded during this to get mine roadworthy asap. He got the wheels, the 1” BL, the seats, the MT and the center console since mine had the newer one with cupholders and I was putting a Marlin doubler in his at the same time. Needed the space for the extra shifter. I went to 265/75-16s on steelies, 4.30 gears open front, scion tc seats, and his AT. For those looking into the AT/MT swap, even though this was 97 to 97, the entire wiring harness for engine, transmission, and behind the dash had to be swapped with the ECUs. The cruise control assembly also had to be swapped. This one is the one everything was swapped with.


Once on the road discovered that on engine decel I had sever rod knock. Based on looking at the caps for the main bearings I realized that the engine had been run dry at some point and needed to be rebuilt. So I had it rebuilt by a local shop that several race friends had faith in.

When I installed the AT I immediately installed an external cooler, an auxiliary transmission filter, and a transmission temp gauge.


Painted the bumpers black with rattle can rustoleum bedliner spray because I have had many good experiences touching it up on another off-road project.
Installed an e-locker using my own wiring with a 15A DPDT relay mounted under the center console.

this is what it became for a while.


since then:

Kill switch
Total chaos upper control arms
Spindle gusset
13 WL tundra brake upgrade
King IFP front shocks
Braided brake lines
Heimed tie rods made from 1.125”-0.219” wall DOM with double shear lower ball joint steering arm



100W halogen KC daylighters
Piaa fog lights
Winch


F350 mult bulb rear dome light
Rocklights installed in rear hatch for working out of the back


Subaru compass/altimeter/outside temp sensor
Fabricated 1/2” extended lower control arms and converted from bushing to 1” uniballs on the inner mount





M14 wheel lugs


76 chevy blazer brake master cylinder


Scs f5 wheels with 3.5” BS
305/70/R16s
eimKeith rear bumper

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Old 03-06-2020, 02:27 AM #2
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eimKeith fuel tank relocation kit,
Completely integrated filler neck for both tanks
set up to run as an auxiliary tank and can be switched while running.





a lot more information can be found on it in: Fuel Tank Relocation (and new Rear Bumper design)

and as of today:

Rigid industries ignite reverse lights mounted in the rear bumper



And currently working on:

Rear swing gate and spare tire mount
LBJ conversion to 1” uniball that we have successfully done to the red 4runner above already







feel free to ask any questions of for more pictures of something and ill get them if I can.
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Old 03-06-2020, 04:55 AM #3
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LOTS of good stuff here! Details on the sphericals in the LCA pivots? The heimed steering?
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Old 03-06-2020, 03:47 PM #4
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Great thread lots of amazing upgrades looking forward to more. Can you put more info on the Subaru compass upgrade
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Old 03-06-2020, 04:38 PM #5
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Dagum there's a lot to unpack in this thread already. Great work
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Old 03-06-2020, 04:39 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plcfcng View Post
Great thread lots of amazing upgrades looking forward to more. Can you put more info on the Subaru compass upgrade
It’s a single Din unit that came out of early 2000s foresters. It’s just like the Field monitor unit that’s out of Japanese 4runners. Kinda cool, does the compass, thermometer, and barometer I think. I have one I just haven’t installed it yet. Need to find the outside temp sensor for it.
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Old 03-06-2020, 04:42 PM #7
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Originally Posted by eimkeith View Post
LOTS of good stuff here! Details on the sphericals in the LCA pivots? The heimed steering?

Yeah, for the steering I was able to get my hands on the steering clevises from camburg a bit early. They’re set up for a 3/4” heim. The tie rod itself is 1.125x0.219 tubing so it has a 11/16” id and is ideal for running a 3/4-16 tap down. I’ve done it on several things in the past, including my panhard bar. On the ball joint ear I drilled the taper out to 5/8”, added the double shear tab, wrapped the backside to shield it from the rotor, and shanked the bolt to land the shoulder in the heavy part of the ball joint.

The tie rods are tapped left and right hand thread for adjustment but it means that one revolution is 1/8” on the tie rod length so alignment is actually a bit of a pain in the ass. I don’t do more than a 1/4 turn at a time. Also the clevis fits inside the factory steering boot so the rack is still sealed up.





On the LCA I was in the process of extending a set for that other 4Runner because every 4Runner I had been around with TC uppers and any lift had trouble getting negative or even 0° camber. That set I did by shifting the forged end out further in the boxed arm but as I was digging into them I realized that the factory adjustment cams have a 19mm od and there is a multitude of misalignment spacers with 3/4 id available for 1” sphericals. I mocked up the cups with weld slugs spaced correctly with dom tubing in the jig and cut off the outer half of the factory bushing hole. Welded the cups in place and then wrapped them from the top of the arm around the cup to the bottom of the arm with 3/16 (overkill). while I was at it I welded an extra plate on the bottom of the arm.


The jig actually used a factory taper ball for the ball joint end to maintain the angle and position was maintained because as it turns out the flats on either side of the arm end fit directly inside 2x2x3/16 square tubing which allowed me to cut the bushing sleeves without loosing position.


I do all this in a dirt driveway and the garage is full of crap thats not mine so things get rusty around here quick.
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Old 03-06-2020, 04:53 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN4runnerman View Post
It’s a single Din unit that came out of early 2000s foresters. It’s just like the Field monitor unit that’s out of Japanese 4runners. Kinda cool, does the compass, thermometer, and barometer I think. I have one I just haven’t installed it yet. Need to find the outside temp sensor for it.
exactly as MN4runnerman said. its pretty much a self contained unit so really its just supplying power, ground, and running the wires and placing the sensor for the outside temp. it was super easy to install. I just picked up a double din mount bracket at pep boys and it took about 3 hrs one evening after work. The calibration procedures can be found online but, the only bummer is that it defaults to barometric pressure reading with key cycle. it is only one button to see altitude in FT though so I can't complain much. what else would you like to know about it.
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Old 03-06-2020, 04:56 PM #9
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Originally Posted by plcfcng View Post
Great thread lots of amazing upgrades looking forward to more. Can you put more info on the Subaru compass upgrade
sorry still figuring out how to do all the correct reply stuff on here, but see above and ask whatever you specifically want to know about it.
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Old 03-06-2020, 05:28 PM #10
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as I went out to take some pictures for eimKeith I spotted a few other things done that I had not mentioned.

EimKeith lower arm gussets, but only on one side currently because I haven't wanted to drop the tank since I daily it. Although now that the aux tank is running I can do that and still drive it; so soon enough. Don't judge those welds too much that welder was an old miller 110 that was on its death bed and has since been replaced by a multimatic 220 AC/DC. But I will concede that they are a combination of welder and welder.


Used a cut piece of abs wiring from the junk yard to extend the ABS sensor wires into the cab which allows me to turn off ABS on the fly by interrupting the one sensor circuit. However it must key cycle to reset the ABS computer. it can be simply unplugged and the original plugs stuck together to bypass.


modified the rear wiper to be able to use a standard wiper found at any autoparts store


re worked the end of my winch cable because I didn't trust the aluminum crimps on the end. Its now woven into a flemish eye and wrapped with stainless tie wire.


better comparison picture of the replacement studs.


better picture of the f350 dome light. Center bulb works with the hatch and the reading lamps are switched for digging though the tool bags.


for anybody interested I'm also using the Blue Driver bluetooth OBDII reader. thoroughly happy with its capability. I haven't found anything I'm missing from my old $300 Actron scanner.


and last but certainly not least, the 3d printed cup/phone holder. Its from a guy who turns out to live in the same little mountain town I do. there is multiple options available too. 3rd Gen 4Runner Double CupHolder 96-02 – BH3D Printing His picture because my truck is currently a mess inside.
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Old 03-06-2020, 10:32 PM #11
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Made some progress on the swing gate today. Not 100% sure that my idea of how to lock it in position is going to work the way I want it to, maybe 80%, but I'm pushing forward with it anyway. The idea is to drill down the DOM tube into the center shear tab, have a spring loaded 3/8" rod inside, and run it across the backside of the gate to the driver/latch side so it can be released from the same position as the latch. I also plan to have it have a detent in the closed position as a backup to the latch and have an idea to have another possible backup on the latch side if it works the way I picture it.

I haven't decided on a latch design for the drivers side. Ive seen 4x4innovations and the Garvin quick clamp. Does anybody else have any ideas or suggestions?



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Old 03-06-2020, 11:48 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk D View Post
76 chevy blazer brake master cylinder
Interesting build!!

Could you share about the custom Chevy brake cylinder swap, thanks!!
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Old 03-07-2020, 01:41 AM #13
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Interesting build!!

Could you share about the custom Chevy brake cylinder swap, thanks!!
Sure, so after the tundra brake upgrade I never felt that the improvement in braking was incredibly significant, and when I did the abs kill switch on mine and my friends 97 we both realized that it was very difficult to engage the ABS and neither of us could lock up any of the wheels with abs off. I was only on 265/75r16s, and that just didn't seem right. I chased the rear problem to oil impregnated shoes from previous leaking axle seals (led me to make my own press tools because I'm not paying someone to put the ring in the wrong place again) but the front still wasn't enough. I found this thread: Master Cylinder upgrade options and this write up: Brake Upgrade

The second write up has a handy chart of what worked and what didn't as well as some calculations. So I looked up replacement pistons for the tundra brakes, calculated the surface area they have, and solved backwards to find the best possible diameter master shooting for the 5.5-8.0 ratio in the writeup. I came up with 1-1/16' master. There was one available from Toyota but only briefly on a vehicle available in the Canadian market and would have required a swap to a 4 bolt booster. The chevy master is two bolt so I only had to oval out the holes with my die grinder. Setting the plunger depth was a bit of work but not terrible and the front and rear lines are opposite on the chevy. In case it didn't work I made my own adapter lines to go from the 9/16" and 1/2" flare on the chevy master to the M10 flare Toyota factory lines.


I did lose the low fluid indicator light but I check fluids pretty regularly anyway. I can now lock all 4 tires up with abs off.
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Old 03-13-2020, 12:34 AM #14
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Received the 4xinnovations latch for the swing gate and between the heavy rains I was able to make some progress on the other end of the gate. I modified the latch to move it around the back of the truck and keep it as tucked in as possible. Added some HDPE between the plates and drilled oath pivot to use a bronze bushing so I can fully tighten it. I had to integrate the pin into the bumper a little to keep the gate parallel and tight against the hatch. My goal was to keep the outside corners simple and not susceptible to damage locking things up.




Also managed to get my hands on some 2.5 reservoirs for the front shocks. I've gotta ditch the IFP. its just too easy for the pressure to get on the wrong side and make them scary to service. Time to get out the modified spring compressors and don a face shield and diaper.
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Old 03-23-2020, 03:51 PM #15
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essentially non essential

Lots of free time but still getting paid has given me the opportunity to make some more progress on the gate.

Spare tire and hi-lift mounted. For mockup I used my 5' hi-lift off my other trail rig and ordered the 4' that can be seen in the finished photo. I would have loved to keep the 5' on there but it stuck up too high. Needed to go back on the other rack anyway.







Made a lock that doesn't rattle for the spare and also manages to act as a lock box interestingly enough.




I was also able to pull the IFP out of my front shocks, change the valving a little and mount the reservoirs. Working puckered the whole time.


some nice arc in those screws.
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