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Old 05-13-2020, 05:10 PM #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
More importantly, are they correct double electrode NGK/Denso plugs?

-Charlie
I got the NGK ones.
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Old 05-13-2020, 05:11 PM #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gull81 View Post
I got mine from ebay and they seemed to be counterfeit. I threw the old plugs back in and no problem.

It seems like you have tried almost everything at this point.
I have given it a pretty good run at it so far. I have tried and checked pretty much the normal stuff. Im close to giving up.
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Old 05-13-2020, 05:15 PM #138
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I have to get time to test fuel pressure under load.

What is puzzling is I cracked the banjo bolt to fix my contraption of a fuel pressure shrader valve and I didn't have any pressure at the rail after sitting overnight.

I had anticipated fuel spray. I got a dribble.

So does that mean the FPR is bad???

Is there a check valve of any kind in the pump or on the tank??
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Old 05-13-2020, 09:08 PM #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweet88gt View Post
I have to get time to test fuel pressure under load.

What is puzzling is I cracked the banjo bolt to fix my contraption of a fuel pressure shrader valve and I didn't have any pressure at the rail after sitting overnight.

I had anticipated fuel spray. I got a dribble.

So does that mean the FPR is bad???

Is there a check valve of any kind in the pump or on the tank??
No, fuel pressure doesn’t stay high in these systems after an hour or so. Every time I have changed the fuel filter I just let the 4Runner sit overnight and then change the filter. Some Mercedes these days do keep pressure at a minimum amount, Audi may too. The modulator never turns off.

If you are concerned about the FPR, pull the vacuum tube and see if gas comes out or if you can even smell gas.
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Old 05-14-2020, 12:34 AM #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweet88gt View Post
I have given it a pretty good run at it so far. I have tried and checked pretty much the normal stuff. Im close to giving up.
Hate for your to give up on this. But man you do have a frustrating issue with this one.
Did you confirm that the FPR inside bellows is not ripped inside and siphoning raw fuel through the vacuum hose?
Ever got a chance to read the STFT and LTFT?
There was another member on here that had that fast clicking iac that you got early on, flooded condition and a hard start or bad no start.
I'm not saying that this is what your going through but, it is a good read and to learn from.
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Old 05-14-2020, 06:07 AM #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiLife View Post
Hate for your to give up on this. But man you do have a frustrating issue with this one.
Did you confirm that the FPR inside bellows is not ripped inside and siphoning raw fuel through the vacuum hose?
Ever got a chance to read the STFT and LTFT?
There was another member on here that had that fast clicking iac that you got early on, flooded condition and a hard start or bad no start.
I'm not saying that this is what your going through but, it is a good read and to learn from.
Been busy with work and time hasn't been on my side.
Im going to check that FPR for sure today.
The fast clicking IAC was replaced with new and hasn't done that since.

It hasn't stalled since the cleaned injectors but check engine light keeps coming on with engine misfire codes. Multiple cylinders. Usually everyone of them.

It runs its just not reliable yet.

I did read the other thread. I would hate to think about replacing the ECU after all of this. Thats not usually part of maitence items I was prepared to replace.
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Old 05-14-2020, 12:21 PM #142
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You put all the vacuum lines back on for the IAC bypass? Or they didn’t crack or fall off?


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Old 05-14-2020, 04:22 PM #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
You put all the vacuum lines back on for the IAC bypass? Or they didn’t crack or fall off?


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So
They are all on but... I started removing all of the vac lines to inspect and found the one on top of the upper intake split.

Then found most are less than ideal. Time to replace them.
But what why the misfire in all cylinders?
Vac Leakes should cause lean condition which I can figure is the lines cracking.
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Old 05-14-2020, 04:24 PM #144
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Question is what are all of the different sizes for vac lines? Looks like I should replace them all to get everything back up in order.

The FPR looks look based off of no fuel in vac line

Fuel pressure is steady at 45-46 psi under idle.
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Old 05-14-2020, 05:40 PM #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweet88gt View Post
Question is what are all of the different sizes for vac lines? Looks like I should replace them all to get everything back up in order.

The FPR looks look based off of no fuel in vac line

Fuel pressure is steady at 45-46 psi under idle.
5VZ vacuum hose kit.
Complete Silicone Hose Swap.
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Old 05-14-2020, 07:53 PM #146
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https://www.toyota-4runner.org/attac...1&d=1589500365

If anyone ever stumbles across the crazy thread this picture may help for vac lines. Look like Toyota part numbers for each.
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Old 05-14-2020, 08:57 PM #147
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So I fixed the broken vac line.
Cleared the codes then tested once again. Pending codes of misfire 1-2-3-4-6

Would the crankshaft position sensor cause me issues but not throw a code for it ??

Misfires in most cylinders ?
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Old 05-14-2020, 09:02 PM #148
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Quote:
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https://www.toyota-4runner.org/attac...a1_170551d-jpg

If anyone ever stumbles across the crazy thread this picture may help for vac lines. Look like Toyota part numbers for each.

When I rebuilt the engine I ordered all new coolant lines to delete the aux heater. As well as the vacuum lines from the IAC to the two injector rail vacuum ports.

The 171 code is system too lean which explains your missfire code. If you are just checking the fuel pressure leading up to the regulator it still leaves the question of what is your fuel pressure at the injectors.

Either you got a vacuum leak or a sensor that helps controls fuel management is not imputing correct data to the ECU or something is up with the injectors you just put in.


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Old 05-14-2020, 09:20 PM #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
When I rebuilt the engine I ordered all new coolant lines to delete the aux heater. As well as the vacuum lines from the IAC to the two injector rail vacuum ports.

The 171 code is system too lean which explains your missfire code. If you are just checking the fuel pressure leading up to the regulator it still leaves the question of what is your fuel pressure at the injectors.

Either you got a vacuum leak or a sensor that helps controls fuel management is not imputing correct data to the ECU or something is up with the injectors you just put in.


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Im not sure but since the injectors I have no stall which was the original problem. Im sure I could have fixed one issue and now chasing another.

That lean code has now disappeared and my guess is that vac line fixed that issue. It was split length ways and was audible. It actually kept getting worse. I probably broke it in the injector replacement procedure.
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Old 05-14-2020, 09:29 PM #150
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So Im not even sure Im doing the datalog thing correctly or if I even have the correct PIDs listed.
I have the dash command app for iPhone and the wifi deal under the dash.

I need to look at STFT bank 1
LTFT bank 1
O2 voltage bank 1
coolant temp
MAF
rpm

Anything else?
Ill be back it tomorrow
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