With your milage I’d do a compression test.

Also think about injectors.

When a crank sensor starts going bad due to heat it will doo the random stall and take a little while to restart. Same with the ICM.

If it was mine I’d first do a compression test and rebuild or replace the injectors. I rebuilt my spare set of injectors when I rebuild the engine.

If your compression test shows issues a leak down is next to figure out if it’s top end or bottom end.

If all is well with compression I’d really think about injectors. Mainly because it’s a hard start after a stall which may be a flood condition.

Fuel pressure will not be part of live data. Looking at MAF and the LTFT and the O2 leading up to the stall would help. And verify it’s running in Closed Loop before the stall.

Do you have any readiness monitors not set?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Im not sure what readiness monitors are ?

I got a set of injectors from the yard sitting in my tool box on the cheap.
I was hoping this thing would not turn into a disaster. Damn 90s cars.

Having some idle issues myself and following your thread.

Not too much to offer, but I have cleaned out fuel injectors before. I ran a tube to the fuel injector, with injector cleaner in the tube. We used an air compressor to pressurize the tube. Then we ran some wires to the injector and used a 9-volt battery and a switch to keep clicking the injector. A lot of clicking but eventually the injector went from completely stuck to spraying.

I hope that helps, best of luck.

update:
So I will keep coming back to this thread until I have gotten it figured out.
Today got one of those wifi obd tools to check w my phone.
Here is what it came up with today.
Stored codes
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder misfire
P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire
P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire
Pending codes are the same as stored listed.

So now the hunt is back on.

I was testing out the scan tool and once again it stalls from an idle.

Now the check engine light is staying on constantly. So maybe we can narrow this down.

New good wires on it?
New plugs in it?

If the above are good I would use my spark plug info thread and check the coils corresponding to your cylinders 1,2 and 6

As you either have an ignition issue or a fuel injector issue by the looks of your codes with 3 cylinders.


Also possible engine ground issues causing the cylinders or injectors to misfire as well.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

Spark plugs good. Coming up on about 8 months old and about 3000 miles. When I did the valve covers a few weeks ago still looked good.
New wires as of 2 weeks ago.
I chased grounds in engine compartment the other day if I have them all they are good and tight.

I will track down a compression tester and check that as well hopefully tomorrow.

I have a set of injectors pulled from junkyard that I ohmed out to test good. I can send them out to be cleaned next week.
I have all of the new injector o rings already.
I can buy a FPR but haven't done any tests on it I figured that would be evident if to was the issue.

I have not tested fuel pressure at rail which I probably should.

Anything else?

It's either ignition or fuel causing the cylinders not to fire.

So use the spark plug information on my info thread to verify your coils.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

Doubt its low compression unless your loosing antifreeze and oil.

If the spark plugs are wet they are not firing. If they are clean and dry injectors may not be firing.

Fuel pressure at the rail would be a good idea.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

Ill check out the spark plug wires tomorrow

It’s still worth knowing what the compression is with your milage.

Stalls at idle on the old CJ were two cylinders running 90psi hot.

Also ohm our your coils and anyone near the upper limit resistance wise replace.

Sadly none of your missfire codes have a ignition coil in common.

What is your MAF and Load reading at idle?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am going to run it tomorrow and wait till it stalls and pull the plugs to see what is what. In a stall it always smells of fuel which now leads me back to unburnt fuel.

Tunnel vision sometimes gets hard to get away from.

I have ohm tested the coils before but always cold. I will check them out when hot as well. Ill look for the values for both. Ill check the wires again as I changed them due to arcing on one of the coils.

All a matter of process with limited tools.

Fuel pressure and compression will be on the list.

Fuel pressure will be the most difficult because it will require buying a new banjo bolt with a test port in it and they you will have to adapt it to a pressure sensor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed
Thought about if and when to permanently mount a gauge and be done with it.

Your MAF, fuel trim, and load may give you a hint as to what is causing the issue.