03-10-2020, 02:35 AM
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#1
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Are top spacers really that bad?
I just need a little lift (roughly an inch) in the front to level my 99 4R after adding a bumper. I don't go off-roading and like how my suspension rides now. Will adding a 1/2" top spacer really be that bad?
After searching, so many just say to change out the shocks or coils but is that really necessary if I want just a little bit of lift?
A couple reasons why I want do top spacers vs changing shocks/coils:
- cost $40 for top spacers vs spending at least $150 for shocks or coils
- adding top spacers to existing suspension, I know how much of a lift I get
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1999 Black SR5 5-speed 4WD Rear e-locker
Suspension: Toytec 3" Ultimate Lift, JBA STD High Caster Upper A-arms, Eimkieth PCK
Wheels/Tires: Method 305 NV Bronze (16x8 | 0/4.5"), Goodyear Duratracs 285/75-16, 1.25" Spidertrax Wheel Spacers
Others: SRQ Fabrications Flush Grille, TJM T17 Front Bumper, Magnuson Supercharger, URD 7th Injector, Rock Gray Avery vinyl wrap, TG Sliders
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03-10-2020, 08:09 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: DFW, TX
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For street use, and very mild off-roading it's fine. I have been running a 3/4 Toytec Spacer for 8 years now with no issues. I originally had Tundra Springs and 7 wraps, but it was just too tall, so I went back to stock springs and a 3/4 spacer in front and a 1.5 spacer in the rear.
For 40 bucks you can't go wrong, but I would say if you haven't changed the shocks in the last 100k, just do the new shocks as a preventative item.
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03-10-2020, 11:32 AM
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#3
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Tacoma Washington
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Real Name: Ryan
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It'll be fine. You might notice a little more stiffness, but it'll be fine for your use.
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03-10-2020, 12:14 PM
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#4
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Folks often use the terms "top plate spacers" and "spring spacers" interchangeably, but they're not. Top plate spacers shift the whole coilover assembly down, so they do not affect the spring rate in any way. Spring Spacers go between the spring top and the top plate, so they "precompress" the spring (sort of like 5100 shocks do), so they do affect the spring rate.
I think you're asking about the top plate spacers. I have 1/2" poly top plate spacers from Wheelers- 1/2" Polyurethane Top Plate Spacer, BLACK,95-19 Tacoma/96-19 4Runner/99-06 Tundra/07-14 FJC.
I really like them - they gave me a 1.5" lift, way more than the advertised 11/16". The ride is the same as stock, which is what I wanted.
You do need to disassemble the coilover to install longer studs, so be prepared for that.
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1997 4Runner Limited 4WD E-Locker ~200k | Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/75/16 | Pro Comp 69 16x8 | OME 2906 | B&M 70264
Addicted Offroad Front Bumper | Spiker Engineering High-Lift Hood Struts and Ultragauge Mount
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03-10-2020, 12:30 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon
Folks often use the terms "top plate spacers" and "spring spacers" interchangeably, but they're not. Top plate spacers shift the whole coilover assembly down, so they do not affect the spring rate in any way. Spring Spacers go between the spring top and the top plate, so they "precompress" the spring (sort of like 5100 shocks do), so they do affect the spring rate.
I think you're asking about the top plate spacers. I have 1/2" poly top plate spacers from Wheelers- 1/2" Polyurethane Top Plate Spacer, BLACK,95-19 Tacoma/96-19 4Runner/99-06 Tundra/07-14 FJC.
I really like them - they gave me a 1.5" lift, way more than the advertised 11/16". The ride is the same as stock, which is what I wanted.
You do need to disassemble the coilover to install longer studs, so be prepared for that.
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Yep, those were the ones I was planning on getting...or the $20 aluminum ones. How are the polyurethanes holding up? I might just get those and save me a few bucks if they're holding up alright.
Also, the description says this: "Most applications need longer strut top plate studs for these." Was this needed for your application?
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1999 Black SR5 5-speed 4WD Rear e-locker
Suspension: Toytec 3" Ultimate Lift, JBA STD High Caster Upper A-arms, Eimkieth PCK
Wheels/Tires: Method 305 NV Bronze (16x8 | 0/4.5"), Goodyear Duratracs 285/75-16, 1.25" Spidertrax Wheel Spacers
Others: SRQ Fabrications Flush Grille, TJM T17 Front Bumper, Magnuson Supercharger, URD 7th Injector, Rock Gray Avery vinyl wrap, TG Sliders
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03-10-2020, 12:34 PM
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#6
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There are two possible issues with top plate spacers:
1. You have to make sure the total extended length of the shock+spacer is less than the max droop of the rest of the front suspension. To check this, you need to loosen all pivot bolts (long one up top, two alignment cams below) and see if you can put the coilover w/spacer in place without compressing anything. You should have to lift the lower a-arm to put the lower shock bolt in place. With all stock suspension, the upper ball joint is the limit. With higher articulation upper arms, the limit will be somewhere else (axle, lower ball joint, who knows?).
2. You have to make sure the compressed length of your suspension does not bottom out your shock. To do this, you need to assemble the front shock without the spring and put the weight of the truck on that corner. If the shock bottoms out before the bump stops limit travel, you can ruin your shocks if/when you bottom out.
I run a small (3/8", I think?) top plate spacer. I checked both of the above, and everything is fine with my 5100's. Your setup can/will be different.
-Charlie
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03-10-2020, 12:43 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Palos Verdes, CA
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Real Name: Leon
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Real Name: Leon
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I did need longer studs with the 1/2" spacers, which is why I had to disassemble the coilovers (I was replacing the shocks anyway, so that didn't other me). I think for 3/8" plate you are OK with the OEM studs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
There are two possible issues with top plate spacers:
1. You have to make sure the total extended length of the shock+spacer is less than the max droop of the rest of the front suspension. To check this, you need to loosen all pivot bolts (long one up top, two alignment cams below) and see if you can put the coilover w/spacer in place without compressing anything. You should have to lift the lower a-arm to put the lower shock bolt in place. With all stock suspension, the upper ball joint is the limit. With higher articulation upper arms, the limit will be somewhere else (axle, lower ball joint, who knows?).
2. You have to make sure the compressed length of your suspension does not bottom out your shock. To do this, you need to assemble the front shock without the spring and put the weight of the truck on that corner. If the shock bottoms out before the bump stops limit travel, you can ruin your shocks if/when you bottom out.
I run a small (3/8", I think?) top plate spacer. I checked both of the above, and everything is fine with my 5100's. Your setup can/will be different.
-Charlie
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Everything above checked out on my truck with the 1/2" spacers and the KYB replacement shocks. But definitely check these on your truck, you don't want to be bottoming out on the shock or drooping on the upper ball joint.
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1997 4Runner Limited 4WD E-Locker ~200k | Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/75/16 | Pro Comp 69 16x8 | OME 2906 | B&M 70264
Addicted Offroad Front Bumper | Spiker Engineering High-Lift Hood Struts and Ultragauge Mount
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