View Poll Results: What parts did you replace for your knock sensor code?
I replaced only the harness and it fixed the issue. 3 27.27%
I replaced only the harness and it fixed the issue.
3 27.27%
I replaced only the harness and it did not fix the issue, CEL was still on. 1 9.09%
I replaced only the harness and it did not fix the issue, CEL was still on.
1 9.09%
I replaced only the harness and the affected sensor. 0 0%
I replaced only the harness and the affected sensor.
0 0%
I replaced the harness and both knock sensors. 7 63.64%
I replaced the harness and both knock sensors.
7 63.64%
Voters: 11. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 03-22-2020, 03:37 PM #16
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I had to do my knock sensors, and only used toyota parts....to many threads out there on cheap copies that crap out. I dont like doing things twice, and with the age of this truck and miles (245k) anything that was replaceable....gaskets, hoses etc were replaced esp if it was under the manifolds. I also did vc gaskets, wires, plugs, cleaned maf, ICV etc. Also the driver side wire harness loom cover under intake was pretty brittle and crumbled under my hands, so wraped the wires in rescue tape ( high temp stuff)


CHEAP SHORT CUT
I wont look it up to link, but there is a guy on you tube, that made a metal bracket, mounted 2 knock sensors to the bracket, plugged in new harness to plug end near top radiator hose.. bolted the bracket to his alternator bracket I think, .all of this outside of engine and without pulling anything apart. He did this to avoid doing the work and turn off his codes. Of course this bypasses the reason to have knock sensors...but like I said he did it to avoid doing the real work. This not only clears codes, but I was told that if the truck reads this code long enough it will go into limp mode, and I sure did not want to go into limp mode on my move.
I saw this as my knock sensors went bad ( ended up actually being the harness) about a week before moving to alaska from Oregon, and actually thought for a few minutes doing this for a temp fix for my move. Reality struck, and I ordered all the parts and pulled a couple of long days and nights to get it all done before the move.
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Old 04-04-2020, 08:44 PM #17
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Ok, I've got a bit of a conundrum now. I replaced the harness (the old was was in very good shape though), fired it up and the code is still on. Replaced both sensors with known good ones (I took them off a running engine and was planning on selling them) and code pops back on. Not only that, now I have codes for Bank 2 and Bank 1. I've ordered an ECU to swap out to see if mine took a dump.

Anything else I should be looking at?

PS I can do a knock sensor repair in 2 hours flat... so not a total waste of time for me. Plus we all seem to have more time on our hands as of late...
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Old 04-10-2020, 02:44 PM #18
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My new knock sensors came in and I put them in. Man, I could open a knock sensor repair shop, I've got it memorized. 2:15 and the whole thing is done.

Codes are gone. Need more driving to know definitively but sensors were the issue. Odd that they failed with only about 60,000 miles on them, but perhaps it's age that kills them and not miles. So intermittent KS codes can mean the sensor as well as the wiring. For me it was the sensors.
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Old 04-11-2020, 07:21 PM #19
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Knock Sensor Repairs - What did you do?

It still annoys me that Toyota doesnít use them below 3000rpm.

When I was going through my CJ phase I found a stand alone knock sensor setup that used a GM sensor that could retard ignition as well as indicate if it was present.

Edit: you would need three of them to be effective though.


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Old 04-12-2020, 11:12 PM #20
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Hey, just tried to tackle this yesterday.
Personally my trouble started with a combination of P0171/P0325/P0420. Initially suspected a vacuum leak and couldn't find one, so decided to replace the MAF and that took out P0171 and P0420, but P0325 still persisted. When cleared, the CEL will turn off until a steep grade or other means of heavy acceleration.
I read about splicing the two sensors together to trick the ECU around the code and that this worked for many people - thinking this would be the best step since it was the least amount of work and money, I gave it a shot but to no avail. CEL still on.
Next weekend I'm just going to replace the sensors and harness together and call it good; you might as well if you have to open everything up just to service either one. Knock sensors are a headache that will NOT go away like other codes.

(car is a 2000 SR5 at 282k)
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Old 04-13-2020, 12:38 PM #21
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Quote:
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Hey, just tried to tackle this yesterday.
Personally my trouble started with a combination of P0171/P0325/P0420. Initially suspected a vacuum leak and couldn't find one, so decided to replace the MAF and that took out P0171 and P0420, but P0325 still persisted. When cleared, the CEL will turn off until a steep grade or other means of heavy acceleration.
I read about splicing the two sensors together to trick the ECU around the code and that this worked for many people - thinking this would be the best step since it was the least amount of work and money, I gave it a shot but to no avail. CEL still on.
Next weekend I'm just going to replace the sensors and harness together and call it good; you might as well if you have to open everything up just to service either one. Knock sensors are a headache that will NOT go away like other codes.

(car is a 2000 SR5 at 282k)
I feel ya. It's a stubborn code that's a lot of work and money to fix and becoming more frequent. I fear this code is going to put a lot of 4Runners out of commission due to the high repair costs vs value of the vehicle.
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Old 04-19-2020, 08:42 PM #22
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UPDATE: I am officially a member of the Gremlin Hunting Squad
Today I went through the effort of replacing my knock sensors AND harness together (OEM set) in hopes that this CEL would go away, but alas, P0325 came up almost immediately after 5 hours of work - I'd say within 60 seconds of driving, or around that (and idling for maybe 5 mins prior as I cleaned up the garage.) The harness is not pinched and the sensors were tested prior to installation to confirm no continuity, which would otherwise signal a short. The sensors were tightened down by hand, but not to the ~30lb spec; could this be an issue? I'm not sure what else would be.
I'm nearly at my wits end chasing this gremlin - does anybody have an idea as to what i should try next? Electronics are NOT my forte, so any help at all is appreciated. These 5VZ's are not particularly enjoyable to take apart, so I'd prefer to do it only once more and not twice

Edit: When I took off the old sensors one of them was shot, however it got mixed up on the garage floor before testing and it's unclear if it coincided with the bank 1 code.

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Old 04-20-2020, 06:19 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot View Post
UPDATE: I am officially a member of the Gremlin Hunting Squad
Today I went through the effort of replacing my knock sensors AND harness together (OEM set) in hopes that this CEL would go away, but alas, P0325 came up almost immediately after 5 hours of work - I'd say within 60 seconds of driving, or around that (and idling for maybe 5 mins prior as I cleaned up the garage.) The harness is not pinched and the sensors were tested prior to installation to confirm no continuity, which would otherwise signal a short. The sensors were tightened down by hand, but not to the ~30lb spec; could this be an issue? I'm not sure what else would be.
I'm nearly at my wits end chasing this gremlin - does anybody have an idea as to what i should try next? Electronics are NOT my forte, so any help at all is appreciated. These 5VZ's are not particularly enjoyable to take apart, so I'd prefer to do it only once more and not twice

Edit: When I took off the old sensors one of them was shot, however it got mixed up on the garage floor before testing and it's unclear if it coincided with the bank 1 code.
When you say tightened by hand, you mean you put them in hand tight, or just made your best guess at 30 lbft? I also did a best guess since I couldn't get my torque wrench in the with the water pipe in the way. If you did them hand tight though, they will wiggle loose due to heat cycles.

There's only 3 parts to check from the FSM:
  1. The sensors
  2. The wiring
  3. The ECU

You've done the sensor and half the wiring. Time to test for resistance on the harness from the pigtail connector to the ECU, and possibly swap your ECU if you can. I had bought a replacement ECU just in case I had to go that route, was around $70 used on Ebay if that helps at all. Make sure you pull yours to get the EXACT model number, each year had different model numbers. If you have a smart key or key fobs you might have to get it reprogrammed to start though.

You can also de-pin the pigtail male connector and swap the wires around. If the code then jumps to the other sensor, it's most likely a sensor issue. If the code stays the same, it's most likely a wiring issue on the ECU end of things.

Hope that helps.
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Old 04-20-2020, 10:56 PM #24
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When I say hand tight I meant with a wrench, approximately guessing. NOT finger tightened for sure
Thank you for the information, ECU was going to be my next step! Just ordered a used one for $100ish, and also an oscilloscope just for the giggles.
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Old 05-21-2020, 02:45 PM #25
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Exclamation Issues after knock sensor replacement

So, I just put my truck back together after replacing both knock sensors, knock sensor wiring harness, fuel injector O-rings, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and various hoses...

Now, the truck smells like gasoline and the throttle peddle seems stiff.

When I started it for the first time, I let it get up to temperature. The fuel line coupling behind the battery was dry to the touch. No visible leaks around the intake manifold. When I put it in gear, the idle fell to about 750rpm. So, I'm not thinking I have a vacuum, fuel, or coolant leak. But that gasoline smell is... unnerving...

Any advise would be welcome.

Mike.
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Old 05-21-2020, 05:27 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeDiehl View Post
So, I just put my truck back together after replacing both knock sensors, knock sensor wiring harness, fuel injector O-rings, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and various hoses...

Now, the truck smells like gasoline and the throttle peddle seems stiff.

When I started it for the first time, I let it get up to temperature. The fuel line coupling behind the battery was dry to the touch. No visible leaks around the intake manifold. When I put it in gear, the idle fell to about 750rpm. So, I'm not thinking I have a vacuum, fuel, or coolant leak. But that gasoline smell is... unnerving...

Any advise would be welcome.

Mike.
Trust your nose. Did you happen to re-use any injector o-rings or crush washers? They are all one-time use parts and re-using those seals can cause a fuel leak at the injectors.
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Old 05-22-2020, 10:44 AM #27
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Quote:
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Trust your nose. Did you happen to re-use any injector o-rings or crush washers? They are all one-time use parts and re-using those seals can cause a fuel leak at the injectors.
Ironically, I took the injectors out JUST so I could replace the o-rings.... Should have just left them alone.. I don't recall seeing crush washers, though. I disconnected the fuel rail at the junction just above the fender well. I didn't mess with the banjo bolt at the end of the rail, if that's what you are referring to.

Last night was the first time I could get under the hood without rain. I was able to visually confirm that the middle injector on the passenger side is leaking up from the base.

Swapping out a rubber o-ring for another seems like a simple task. What could I have done wrong?

Mike.
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Old 05-22-2020, 05:47 PM #28
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Quote:
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Ironically, I took the injectors out JUST so I could replace the o-rings.... Should have just left them alone.. I don't recall seeing crush washers, though. I disconnected the fuel rail at the junction just above the fender well. I didn't mess with the banjo bolt at the end of the rail, if that's what you are referring to.

Last night was the first time I could get under the hood without rain. I was able to visually confirm that the middle injector on the passenger side is leaking up from the base.

Swapping out a rubber o-ring for another seems like a simple task. What could I have done wrong?

Mike.
Sometimes the o-rings like to roll off when you press it in. You can test if this has happenend by twisting the injector side to side. If it's smooth it's in right, if it sticks the o-ring rolled off. You can also use a few drops of fuel or oil to get it to seat right (from the FSM).
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Old 05-23-2020, 09:12 AM #29
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Cheapest place I've found the OEM parts is partsouq.com. All oem stuff. Two knock sensors, harness, and the two lower intake manifold gaskets for 287 shipped and will be here Monday. I'm going to be replacing all the oem stuff after getting a driverside sensor that was stuck on and also adding a standalone knock sensor that's ran off my piggyback so I can actually see the knock count and not just trust the oem ones that are notoriously issue prone with boost.

Hoping with this setup I'll be able to have knock control below 3k rpm and then from 3k up just let the oem stuff do it's thing and monitor to make sure it's all working properly.

In my case when the sensor failed it failed a long time before I got the code. Progressively throughout the day it felt like my low rpm power was going away and the truck really was falling in it's face in boost. Got to the point where I thought I'd melted a plug or something because I couldn't get over 40mph and the truck would slow down if it got into boost. P0330 finally came in and I didn't even bother checking to see if it was intermittent before parking it to take it apart.
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Old 05-23-2020, 11:23 AM #30
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In my case when the sensor failed it failed a long time before I got the code. Progressively throughout the day it felt like my low rpm power was going away and the truck really was falling in it's face in boost. Got to the point where I thought I'd melted a plug or something because I couldn't get over 40mph and the truck would slow down if it got into boost. P0330 finally came in and I didn't even bother checking to see if it was intermittent before parking it to take it apart.
That's interesting symptoms. It's almost like the sensor was failing intermittently, long enough to kill power but not enough to throw the light. When mine went, oddly it was the opposite. Light came on and drove just fine for a few cycles. Then after 3-4 starts it'd lose power. If I cleared the light the power would come back again.
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