View Poll Results: What parts did you replace for your knock sensor code?
I replaced only the harness and it fixed the issue. 3 27.27%
I replaced only the harness and it fixed the issue.
3 27.27%
I replaced only the harness and it did not fix the issue, CEL was still on. 1 9.09%
I replaced only the harness and it did not fix the issue, CEL was still on.
1 9.09%
I replaced only the harness and the affected sensor. 0 0%
I replaced only the harness and the affected sensor.
0 0%
I replaced the harness and both knock sensors. 7 63.64%
I replaced the harness and both knock sensors.
7 63.64%
Voters: 11. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 05-23-2020, 05:17 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black798 View Post
Cheapest place I've found the OEM parts is partsouq.com. All oem stuff. Two knock sensors, harness, and the two lower intake manifold gaskets for 287 shipped and will be here Monday. I'm going to be replacing all the oem stuff after getting a driverside sensor that was stuck on and also adding a standalone knock sensor that's ran off my piggyback so I can actually see the knock count and not just trust the oem ones that are notoriously issue prone with boost.

Hoping with this setup I'll be able to have knock control below 3k rpm and then from 3k up just let the oem stuff do it's thing and monitor to make sure it's all working properly.
I've not dealt with partsouq yet; but have used amayama from Japan several times with good results. Yesterday I ordered the following from amayama UAE:

2x: 89615-12090 OEM Denso knock sensors $98.75 ea
2x: 17177-62060 OEM lower manifold gaskets $22.49 ea
Shipping: $23.50

I'd ordered the wiring harness 82219-34010- $28.84 from Conicelli with a bunch of other stuff a week prior. No rush with delivery needed for me as I've chosen to replace these prophylactically as part of the VC gasket, timing belt and SC install work.

I am very interested in your plan for an addl. knock sensor as in input to your mapecu3 for tuning below 3k rpm. I also plan to purchase a map piggyback when I drop to a 2.2 pulley as a next step.

From what I've gathered lately, modern knock sensors (e.g. NTK) are designed to provide flat response from 5k-15kHz to meet many applications and rely upon the engine manufacturer to process the signal to meet the specific need.

I read some stuff on customtacos.com that the 5VZFE knock has a peak frequency of 6.6kHz, so you'd need to do bandpass filtering to create a useful input to the piggyback. Presumably, the OEM ECU has that functionality built in for its own needs.

I found this whitepaper by Texas Instruments very interesting:
How to set-up a knock-sensor signal-conditioning system

And this link for the evaluation board ($149), software and documentation:
Vibration and Engine Knock Sensor Interface

I'm also wondering whether it would be possible to tap onto, buffer, condition and utilize the signals from the existing sensors as inputs to the pigyback.

I'll keep poking around on this and please keep us updated on your findings.
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Old 05-24-2020, 09:59 AM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bdnewyork View Post
I've not dealt with partsouq yet; but have used amayama from Japan several times with good results. Yesterday I ordered the following from amayama UAE:

2x: 89615-12090 OEM Denso knock sensors $98.75 ea
2x: 17177-62060 OEM lower manifold gaskets $22.49 ea
Shipping: $23.50

I'd ordered the wiring harness 82219-34010- $28.84 from Conicelli with a bunch of other stuff a week prior. No rush with delivery needed for me as I've chosen to replace these prophylactically as part of the VC gasket, timing belt and SC install work.

I am very interested in your plan for an addl. knock sensor as in input to your mapecu3 for tuning below 3k rpm. I also plan to purchase a map piggyback when I drop to a 2.2 pulley as a next step.

From what I've gathered lately, modern knock sensors (e.g. NTK) are designed to provide flat response from 5k-15kHz to meet many applications and rely upon the engine manufacturer to process the signal to meet the specific need.

I read some stuff on customtacos.com that the 5VZFE knock has a peak frequency of 6.6kHz, so you'd need to do bandpass filtering to create a useful input to the piggyback. Presumably, the OEM ECU has that functionality built in for its own needs.

I found this whitepaper by Texas Instruments very interesting:
How to set-up a knock-sensor signal-conditioning system

And this link for the evaluation board ($149), software and documentation:
Vibration and Engine Knock Sensor Interface

I'm also wondering whether it would be possible to tap onto, buffer, condition and utilize the signals from the existing sensors as inputs to the pigyback.

I'll keep poking around on this and please keep us updated on your findings.
Definitely will post the results in a few weeks once i get it up and running again. Pretty sure I know the thread you're talking about over on CT, read through that a few times when I was exploring the option of ditching the stock sensors all together.

Also heres the mapecu wiring diagram for the knock sensor setup, it already uses the gm knock sensor processor so that simplifies things. I wonder if you could run the stock sensors through that gm processor to the mapecu and just use them instead of that 3rd sensor. The one thing I am struggling to figure out is how to setup two sensors off that gm system. Not sure if I can just run them both off the same wire or if I am better off doing just one sensor in the middle of the cylinder valley. If I had to pick one side for mine to put the sensor I think the driver side would be best since thats the sensor that failed and leads me to believe the side that knocks the most. Very glad I choose the mapecu over the urd 7th or something, its really nice having a piggyback with this much capability
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Old 05-25-2020, 01:38 AM #33
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Is there really a need for knock control below 3K RPM? On stock sized tires (realize if you have larger tires but same gear ratio this could be an issue), I don't spend hardly any time with heavy driving under 3K except when going up the pass on I-80 towards Tahoe. Even then just popping out of overdrive takes care of that.

When I want to go fast, 3K RPM's comes and goes really quick...
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Old 05-25-2020, 01:03 PM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
Is there really a need for knock control below 3K RPM? On stock sized tires (realize if you have larger tires but same gear ratio this could be an issue), I don't spend hardly any time with heavy driving under 3K except when going up the pass on I-80 towards Tahoe. Even then just popping out of overdrive takes care of that.

When I want to go fast, 3K RPM's comes and goes really quick...

My truck is re geared to 5.29s but it weighs a little over 1200lbs more than stock and is twisting 35s. I dont like climbing long passes like on I70 screaming at 4k rpm in 3rd to maintain 60. At that point the blower isnt even making boost so what was even the point of installing it. I like being able to hold 65 to 70 at 2500 to 3000 rpm when climbing most hills. I have a shift controller that allows me to force the torque converter to stay locked and in 4th gear. Works really well and its nice not downshifting on every damn little hill I come across. Basically treat it like my turbo car where boost is what carries me up things and vacuum does the rest. So in my case knock control below 3k rpm is really important
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Old 06-05-2020, 03:45 PM #35
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So, I just put my truck back together after replacing both knock sensors, knock sensor wiring harness, fuel injector O-rings, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and various hoses...

Now, the truck smells like gasoline and the throttle peddle seems stiff.

When I started it for the first time, I let it get up to temperature. The fuel line coupling behind the battery was dry to the touch. No visible leaks around the intake manifold. When I put it in gear, the idle fell to about 750rpm. So, I'm not thinking I have a vacuum, fuel, or coolant leak. But that gasoline smell is... unnerving...

Any advise would be welcome.

Mike.
So, last Saturday, I got up early and tore back into my truck. I replaces the o-rings. Only this time, I put a bit of 3-in-1 oil on them. This helped A LOT! It also helped to have the intake still on the engine this time!

I quit around noon because it got too hot outside. Worked on it a bit that evening. Then started again at about 11 on Sunday.

The truck was running by 3:00PM!

So now I have a 24 year old truck that runs better than it has in YEARS!

I've been driving it for a week now. No gasoline smell. No CEL. Plenty of power. NO hesitation. Never stumbles. Idles smoothly. Hits 85mph sooner than I'd like to admit.

I'm pretty stoked.

Thanks, all.

Mike Diehl.
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Old 06-05-2020, 05:23 PM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black798 View Post
My truck is re geared to 5.29s but it weighs a little over 1200lbs more than stock and is twisting 35s. I dont like climbing long passes like on I70 screaming at 4k rpm in 3rd to maintain 60. At that point the blower isnt even making boost so what was even the point of installing it. I like being able to hold 65 to 70 at 2500 to 3000 rpm when climbing most hills. I have a shift controller that allows me to force the torque converter to stay locked and in 4th gear. Works really well and its nice not downshifting on every damn little hill I come across. Basically treat it like my turbo car where boost is what carries me up things and vacuum does the rest. So in my case knock control below 3k rpm is really important

What shift controller do you have?


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