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Old 03-16-2020, 01:28 PM #16
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Originally Posted by thegipper View Post
I don't know why toyota didn't make the mounts with threaded studs in them, instead it's two bolts and nuts on each side. There really isn't a good way/angle to get to them.

Hope this helps Tim
In the past, I have cut the heads off (extra) bolts used for the bellhousing to help pre-align the engine and trans for reassembly. If you have some extra bolts available, it might be worth considering. You'll need to cut some slots in the home made studs to allow you to remove them to put in the correct bolts later.

When we did the 4WD transmission swap, we had an articulating trans jack and a lift (and a couple guys) to help get everything aligned, so I don't remember it being a huge hassle.

Good luck, Tim! I hope it is a fun project.

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Old 03-16-2020, 02:33 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim View Post
So it seems nobody is saying removing the trans is necessary. But, I can now see why the FSM says to do it this way. When @infamousRNR and I did the trans swap on his 2002, it took us some time to line up the trans with the engine even with a transmission jack with the ability to be adjusted and tilted perfectly to line up with the motor. I'm envisioning a real struggle getting the motor to line up with the trans. I'm guessing you guys had to disconnect the trans from the crossmember to help line things up.

For the guys that are leaving the harness attached to the trans and transfer case, how much of the top end of the engine do you need to remove to get the harness completely free of the engine? I've removed the harness completely one time but it was on a motor that was already pulled and on a pallet and I don't quite remember what it will take to get the harness completely free of the motor.

I still don't know which way we will go with this. I don't know what's worse. Spending the extra time to pull the transfer case and trans so we won't have a horrible time trying to mate the new engine with the transmission or foregoing the trans and transfer case removal knowing there we will have a serious fight on our hands getting the two lined up.
As previously said, all that's needed is removing the upper/lower intake plenum or supercharger, just to get at all the electrical connectors, etc.

One thing I'll say, is that if the video is really geared towards an engine SWAP, leaving the wire harness intact probably makes more sense anyway. Unless someone has their own parts truck, most donor engines and harnesses are cut out.

My trick for aligning the pins was to set the motor on the frame perches, place the 4 isolator to frame perch bolts and barely start the nuts, just to keep the motor from moving too much. Then, my engine was slightly 'twisted?', so I used the engine lift to lightly lift from a single lift point, and everything fell into place easily. My transmission was still connected to the transmission mount, but I did have a floor jack with a scrap 2x4 on the front to assist with the tilt.
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Old 03-16-2020, 03:18 PM #18
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Originally Posted by rideexileex View Post
My trick for aligning the pins was to set the motor on the frame perches, place the 4 isolator to frame perch bolts and barely start the nuts, just to keep the motor from moving too much. Then, my engine was slightly 'twisted?', so I used the engine lift to lightly lift from a single lift point, and everything fell into place easily. My transmission was still connected to the transmission mount, but I did have a floor jack with a scrap 2x4 on the front to assist with the tilt.
That’s basically how I did it too but I only put the front bolt in each motor mount.


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Old 03-16-2020, 04:31 PM #19
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Having a floor jack handy to help tilt the Transmission as it may sag a little. Remember to align the Torque converter as things get close. Never use the Bell housing bolts to draw it together with a lot of force. Using hand tools to draw the bell housing down is the way to go.
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Old 03-17-2020, 12:29 AM #20
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Thanks for all the tips guys. Our project unfortunately has been put on hold due to the Corona Virus situation. The guy @infamousRNR and I were going to help lives in Arizona and works for a small utility company as a lineman. His company asked all personnel to cancel their time off in case some of the guys gets sick and the others will have to pick up the slack, especially if there's a power outage. Hopefully we'll be able to reschedule this once our civilization gets back to normal.
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Old 03-17-2020, 07:46 AM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joelzy View Post
no need to remove it and i'd imagine more of a pain to do so unless it needs work.

I got lucky in that my tranny was out of the 4R when i bought it. Rebuilt the motor and hooked the tranny and TC up in my garage. Biggest hurdle was fitting it all in as one but i wanted to swap the core support out anyway.



were you able to get the motor and tranny out as one with the core support in place? I considered and even with the TC off and a load leveler it looked like there was no way.
I have not pulled this one out yet, been too busy. My previous ones have been pulled out attached on scrapped rigs that could chop up. This one will come out attached and go into the good rig attached. Couldn't find any good videos or write ups on it. But many have been done it with out the split.
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Old 03-17-2020, 09:39 AM #22
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I have not pulled this one out yet, been too busy. My previous ones have been pulled out attached on scrapped rigs that could chop up. This one will come out attached and go into the good rig attached. Couldn't find any good videos or write ups on it. But many have been done it with out the split.
interesting, i took measurments and made a paper model and thought there was no way it would fit but always wondered how people went about it otherwise. ah well
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Old 03-17-2020, 09:47 AM #23
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interesting, i took measurments and made a paper model and thought there was no way it would fit but always wondered how people went about it otherwise. ah well
Would be nice to have it well documented with video. Theres nothing really that I found out there. There's one crappy video on Youtube, but their camera battery went dead right as it was coming out.
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Old 03-17-2020, 03:38 PM #24
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Just get a metric but ton of extensions , good universal sockets, and a helping hand if your in a crunch. and some nice leather gloves to prevent slicing your hands on the heat shielding

I pulled my engine and dropped it back in by myself. Just need about 4-5' of 5/16inch chain, and some hooks. transmission jack with titling adjustments and a 2 ton hoist.

If you go full bore your gunna need a bigger hoist or your gunna have to lowerthe front end of the truck down to pick the entire trans & engine assembly out.

But I am a 4x2 so I did not have to deal with the front differential or T case, you still have to go through the same procedures though. I just have more room to work with hand tools.

best advice. have patience. it should drop in and out like a glove
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Old 03-20-2020, 12:37 PM #25
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Originally Posted by mtbtim View Post
So it seems nobody is saying removing the trans is necessary. But, I can now see why the FSM says to do it this way. When @infamousRNR and I did the trans swap on his 2002, it took us some time to line up the trans with the engine even with a transmission jack with the ability to be adjusted and tilted perfectly to line up with the motor. I'm envisioning a real struggle getting the motor to line up with the trans. I'm guessing you guys had to disconnect the trans from the crossmember to help line things up.

For the guys that are leaving the harness attached to the trans and transfer case, how much of the top end of the engine do you need to remove to get the harness completely free of the engine? I've removed the harness completely one time but it was on a motor that was already pulled and on a pallet and I don't quite remember what it will take to get the harness completely free of the motor.

I still don't know which way we will go with this. I don't know what's worse. Spending the extra time to pull the transfer case and trans so we won't have a horrible time trying to mate the new engine with the transmission or foregoing the trans and transfer case removal knowing there we will have a serious fight on our hands getting the two lined up.
I've pulled 5 engines and replaced 1 (my 98). The steps I take for pulling an engine with no intent to put it back in are very different than if I'm planning on putting it back in if that makes any sense. If pulling the engine with no intent then just yank out the whole deal and be done with it. Just pull the wiring harness through the firewall and don't unplug anything.

If you plan on putting it back in you'll have a heck of a time getting the engine + transmission back in as one piece and even more trouble if you try and pull the 4WD transmission & transfer case separately. It just creates a lot of extra headaches and even more parts you have to take off. The simplest way I found to do it was:

1. Remove engine+transmission harness. Some of the clips on top of the trans are tricky to get to but just be patient. There's also a few places where it has pigtails that can be disconnected instead of doing all the plugs and 10mm bolts that hold the harness down. The engine side of the harness is pretty simple, you do have to pull the upper plenum/intake manifold off though to get to injectors.

2. Remove engine. This part is easy enough.

3. Replace new engine. The hardest part is like you said, getting the engine & trans to mate but with some patience it's not hard. You'll want a jack under the transmission (should have had one there anyway upon removal since there's nothing to support it with the engine gone) so you can have about 10* of angle adjustment. An engine leveler is a must here since the 5VZ-FE's like to point up to the sky when you pull them. We improvised and used heavy duty ratchet straps to pull up the backside of the engine so it was more horizontal.

4. You're home free!

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-20-2020, 02:17 PM #26
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Quote:
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I've pulled 5 engines and replaced 1 (my 98). The steps I take for pulling an engine with no intent to put it back in are very different than if I'm planning on putting it back in if that makes any sense. If pulling the engine with no intent then just yank out the whole deal and be done with it. Just pull the wiring harness through the firewall and don't unplug anything.

If you plan on putting it back in you'll have a heck of a time getting the engine + transmission back in as one piece and even more trouble if you try and pull the 4WD transmission & transfer case separately. It just creates a lot of extra headaches and even more parts you have to take off. The simplest way I found to do it was:

1. Remove engine+transmission harness. Some of the clips on top of the trans are tricky to get to but just be patient. There's also a few places where it has pigtails that can be disconnected instead of doing all the plugs and 10mm bolts that hold the harness down. The engine side of the harness is pretty simple, you do have to pull the upper plenum/intake manifold off though to get to injectors.

2. Remove engine. This part is easy enough.

3. Replace new engine. The hardest part is like you said, getting the engine & trans to mate but with some patience it's not hard. You'll want a jack under the transmission (should have had one there anyway upon removal since there's nothing to support it with the engine gone) so you can have about 10* of angle adjustment. An engine leveler is a must here since the 5VZ-FE's like to point up to the sky when you pull them. We improvised and used heavy duty ratchet straps to pull up the backside of the engine so it was more horizontal.

4. You're home free!

Hope this helps.
What I found with the clutch job we did is the back end of the transmission is heavy because of the transfer case. Wouldn't the trans be more prone to want to pull up and not dip down when balancing on the cross member once the engine is removed? I was thinking if we kept the trans and transfer case in, we would have to support under the transfer case to help get the trans lined up with the engine.
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Old 03-20-2020, 05:03 PM #27
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What I found with the clutch job we did is the back end of the transmission is heavy because of the transfer case. Wouldn't the trans be more prone to want to pull up and not dip down when balancing on the cross member once the engine is removed? I was thinking if we kept the trans and transfer case in, we would have to support under the transfer case to help get the trans lined up with the engine.
That was not my experience, because the transmission is much heavier than the transfer case. The bulk of the transmission (clutches, gears, etc.) is forward of the cross member right above the pan, and the entire pan is in front of the cross member. It likes to fall forward.
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Old 03-20-2020, 08:51 PM #28
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That was not my experience, because the transmission is much heavier than the transfer case. The bulk of the transmission (clutches, gears, etc.) is forward of the cross member right above the pan, and the entire pan is in front of the cross member. It likes to fall forward.
Cool, good to know. When we had the trans jack under the pan of the transmission when doing the clutch job, it was definitely back heavy but the trans mount does sit further back then where we were supporting it so it makes sense that the different balancing point would allow the front end to be heavier than the back end. Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2022, 03:59 PM #29
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For those of you that have swapped out a motor on one of these rigs, did you feel it was necessary to have the transmission out of the vehicle? The first step in the FSM states to remove the transmission. I'm guessing this is not necessary. @infamousRNR are going to document a motor swap this coming week and I wanted some confirmation that the removal of the trans isn't necessary. Common sense says it's not necessary but these are uncharted waters for us and I wanted your guys feedback before diving into this. Thanks!
@mtbtim & @infamousRNR , if you had to do another 5vzfe swap (with an automatic trans), would you still remove the transmission & transfer case like the FSM suggests or attempt it with the transmission & transfer case still bolted to the vehicle?
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Old 01-13-2022, 05:24 PM #30
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I have done two of these complete swaps on 4x4 V6. I personally remove the transfer.. Then the transmission. Lastly the engine. Granted I am currently working off jack stands.

I am sure it can be done easier ways and faster. Just how I do them. Except cars. I mostly pull engine and transmission together.

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