I am still working on testing my electrical. I tested the IAC and that tested fine.
I ended up having to take a break because of feeling frustrated with projects, the current state of things, and we finally had some nice weather; so pulled the splitboard back out and went into the backcountry with my wife.
I'll hopefully get the electrical tested today, if I can fix the broken lead on my multimeter (of course that would happen when I haven't used it in months).
__________________ "Bettie" - 1998 4runner LTD E-Locker Evergreen Pearl 275K+, Alpine HU, Infinity Reference Speakers, Airraid MIT, B&M Cooler, Light Racing UCA, RCI skids, Bilstein Tundra 5100 and 4runner Eibach Coils in front/ Bilstein FJ 5100 and OME 890 rear, LC80 wheels wrapped with MT Baja ATZ 285/75/16, 99+ overhead console, 99+ center console, sound-deadening, Ditch lights
Well, I have to wait a few days to check the electrical wiring. My multi-meter is broken and wasn't reading anything correctly. I have a new one ordered, but even with Amazon Prime it will take a few days.
None of the stores are open in our town to buy one because we are a hot spot for the virus.
When you do a big job like timing belt than you should have not worked on throttle body because now it messes you up where the problem lies, note to myself also
different vehicle but my old fox body had similar issues when the mass air meter calibration messed up. it was not factory but worth checking. i chased it for a loooooong time.
When you do a big job like timing belt than you should have not worked on throttle body because now it messes you up where the problem lies, note to myself also
Yes, hindsight is always 20/20. I've been kicking myself for that this whole time.
I did make some progress however.
I finally got my new multi-meter and was checking electrical, and everything seemed in good order so I proceeded to strop everything down again to confirm timing again and check for a possible broken tooth on the frank pulley. Low and behold,
I'm hoping this is my only problem, but will find out after I get the new pulley and bolt installed. I have no idea how that happened or how I missed it. I did see that the tooth was hidden by the belt when everything is at TDC.
__________________ "Bettie" - 1998 4runner LTD E-Locker Evergreen Pearl 275K+, Alpine HU, Infinity Reference Speakers, Airraid MIT, B&M Cooler, Light Racing UCA, RCI skids, Bilstein Tundra 5100 and 4runner Eibach Coils in front/ Bilstein FJ 5100 and OME 890 rear, LC80 wheels wrapped with MT Baja ATZ 285/75/16, 99+ overhead console, 99+ center console, sound-deadening, Ditch lights
Yes, hindsight is always 20/20. I've been kicking myself for that this whole time.
I did make some progress however.
I finally got my new multi-meter and was checking electrical, and everything seemed in good order so I proceeded to strop everything down again to confirm timing again and check for a possible broken tooth on the frank pulley. Low and behold,
I'm hoping this is my only problem, but will find out after I get the new pulley and bolt installed. I have no idea how that happened or how I missed it. I did see that the tooth was hidden by the belt when everything is at TDC.
Yep, that's your problem right there. OP, I'm guessing to get the timing gear off you did a little prying?
You're right. I thought I was careful taking it off and I thought I inspected it after I took it off, and before I put it on. Obviously a missing tooth points to the contrary.
Now that I'm about to redo my timing belt job, I have a couple questions:
1. Is there a way to compress the tensioner on the car so I don't have to take it off? One of the bolts is rounding, so I would have to take the A/C off in order to get at it cleanly.
2. I assume that I need to get a new crank pulley bolt even though it was new when I put the new belt on?
3. I'm also assuming that I can reuse the timing belt that I just changed? I don't need to worry about it being compromised from taking it off and putting it back on?
Once I get everything installed I'll update the thread (hopefully ending it with a successful conclusion).
I really appreciate the help from you
@mtbtim
and
@LittleCaesar
for all the suggestions and feedback, and of course everyone else that offered advice.
__________________ "Bettie" - 1998 4runner LTD E-Locker Evergreen Pearl 275K+, Alpine HU, Infinity Reference Speakers, Airraid MIT, B&M Cooler, Light Racing UCA, RCI skids, Bilstein Tundra 5100 and 4runner Eibach Coils in front/ Bilstein FJ 5100 and OME 890 rear, LC80 wheels wrapped with MT Baja ATZ 285/75/16, 99+ overhead console, 99+ center console, sound-deadening, Ditch lights
I personally would use a new crank bolt, being that it is less than $10, but you could reuse the old one with some red loctite as long as it is torqued to 217.
You're right. I thought I was careful taking it off and I thought I inspected it after I took it off, and before I put it on. Obviously a missing tooth points to the contrary.
Now that I'm about to redo my timing belt job, I have a couple questions:
1. Is there a way to compress the tensioner on the car so I don't have to take it off? One of the bolts is rounding, so I would have to take the A/C off in order to get at it cleanly.
2. I assume that I need to get a new crank pulley bolt even though it was new when I put the new belt on?
3. I'm also assuming that I can reuse the timing belt that I just changed? I don't need to worry about it being compromised from taking it off and putting it back on?
Once I get everything installed I'll update the thread (hopefully ending it with a successful conclusion).
I really appreciate the help from you
@mtbtim
and
@LittleCaesar
for all the suggestions and feedback, and of course everyone else that offered advice.
Good that you figured it out. Schley Products 97300 Toyota 3.4l Timing Belt Tensioner tool.
I've actually reused the crank pulley bolt before without any problems but it's better to replace it.
I personally would use a new crank bolt, being that it is less than $10, but you could reuse the old one with some red loctite as long as it is torqued to 217.
Throw the old belt on there, you will be fine.
Good luck.
I have this tool and was going to suggest the same thing. But, with this tool, the belt needs to come off first because the tool goes between the lower idler pulley and the water pump pulley and the belt would be in the way. I imagined if I ever used this tool, I'd just cut the old belt off because I imagine it might be a little bit of a fight getting the belt off with the tensioner still applying pressure to the belt.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
No real need to remove the crank gear since it's keyed to the crank. Set it at TDC then remove the hydraulic tensioner so that you can move the belt then reset the cam gears. There's videos to show how to re-compress the tensioner in a vice, then reinsert the grenade pin. When I did my t-belt last summer, all of the marks were perfect until I pulled the pin, then it advanced the cam gears a bit. I just dropped the tensioner, reset the cam gears and advanced them 1 tooth ( to the alignment marks on the heads) to compensate for the tensioner taking up the slack in the belt. When I pulled the pin the 2nd time and rotated the engine by hand a few times, the crank and cam gears all lined up to their perspective marks.
__________________
'99 Limited, 225K miles, 3.4/automatic, multi-mode, e-locker, broken sunroof, no DRL's. 265-75-16 Hankook Dynapro ATM. New Moog rear springs, KYB Monomax F&R.
Last edited by 2ndhandyotaman; 04-14-2020 at 09:47 PM.
Now that I'm about to redo my timing belt job, I have a couple questions:
1. Is there a way to compress the tensioner on the car so I don't have to take it off? One of the bolts is rounding, so I would have to take the A/C off in order to get at it cleanly.
I think removing the tensioner then the belt would be the easiest route if you were planning on reusing the same belt. This would allow you to replace the rounded bolt while everything is apart & still fresh in your head. Have a bolt extractor on hand but it might be a tight fit since they are usually a little wider. I use a c-clamp to compress the tensioner to insert the pin for reinstallation.
__________________ 1. Black 2002 SR5 4x4 5vz:Front Toytec Ultimate coilovers/eibach 600#, SPC UCA, durobumps Rear Bil5100/Superflex, SS adjustable panhard, PCK, durobumps Body Lift 2" 4crawler Tires 315/75/16 BFG KO2 Wheels SCS F5 Matte black 16x8 3.5bs Armor Custom bolt on rock sliders (no frame drilling) 2. Black 2001 SR5 4x4 5vz: stock 3. Black 2018 TRD Pro (wife’s):Armor Custom bolt on rock sliders (U-bolts)