Ya the pictures didn't come out great, but yes all the marks lined up when I turned it by hand, and I stripped it all down again after it didn't start and double-checked that the marks still lined up.

And the coolant temp sensor is oem.

I haven't checked the plugs yet, but will shortly. I had to step away and take a break. Decided to install a door.

I finally took the time to pull the plugs. I pulled #1 and #5 since they're easy to get to and both did smell like gas. What is the likely culprit and solution? Pardon my ignorance.

That means that the plug isn’t firing. You have fuel but no spark. I would pull the #2 plug, and ground it just to see if you have spark (you need to have someone crank the engine over but not so that it starts). Also see if it smells like fuel.

Do you remember if you had RPMs on the tach when the engine barely ran?

Be sure that the vacuum line and the coolant line didn't get mixed up at the TB connections. They're close enough in size that it can happen. Ask me how I know...

I did check that after some searching and saw that could happen. The lines are hooked up correctly and have been since I put it back together. I totally see how that could happen.


Thanks. I'll try and get some plugs and confirm the wiring. Could that have trashed the coil packs with the spark plugs?

Yes, the engine would start with normal range of RPMs, and then it would start to rev up the RPMs to keep running and as soon as the RPMs started going up it would die.

I am just trying to figure out if you have fire on some cylinders or none on all six. Make sure the wiring around the igniter is in tact. You can pull the fuel pump relay to safely check for spark (make sure you ground the plug to metal).

With RPMs your crank signal seems fine.

It almost seems as if the problems may be in the IAC/TPS area. All are plugged in? Plunger works in the IAC (easy to test with a 12v battery)? Check for loose wires as well. Crossing those lines doesn’t make for a happy ending.

I went ahead and replaced all the spark plugs. They all smelled and looked the same as the three pictured above. I did pull the efi relay to hopefully reset the fuel pump in case there was an issue with the IAC(the new one I tried to install, but took out) that was throwing things out of wack.

I checked the plugs on the IAC/TPS and they are both plugged in and I triple-checked the lines going into the IAC to make sure they were correct.

I tried running it again after I changed plugs and thought I had it going, it ran for a few seconds and then started getting rough and the second it tried to increase RPMs it cut off.

I believe u left the mass airflow sensor unplugged. if not. Then hold the throttle open just small amount and crank it and see if it runs with the throttle cracked just small amount if it runs then I would check the IAC again u may have something clogged up

The symptoms also point towards the crank shafts pulley teeth bent or missing. wouldn't hurt to check for codes to see if its throwing a p0340 code.

You aren’t getting enough spark or no spark, basically just dumping fuel into the cylinders. Make sure all the wires are good going into the igniter.

I like where @spartacus was going with his thinking but the only time I have heard the crank pulley teeth getting messed up is when changing out the crank seal. Make sure though none of the teeth are bent. Hand crank the engine over and look for a missing or broken tooth.

The MAF is plugged in. I've checked all my wiring for being unplugged and fully connected. I tried pressing the gas when cranking it, and as soon as I do it cuts off.

I appreciate all the input, it's helped me form a new battle plan.

I checked my ultragauge yesterday and the intake temp is working, timing advance gauge, and there was a second where a code popped up (P1300) but the second time, and the 5 times after I tried to crank the car it went away and hasn't come back up.

1. I'll check all the wiring to plugs, igniter, MAF to make sure everything is intact.
2. If nothing pans out there, I will start stripping things down to check the crank. I saw in an old thread someone had similar symptoms with a broken/missing tooth on the crank. I didn't drop anything, but I did use the bump method to break the bolt loose cuz I couldn't get the pulley holder tool (but now have one). It's possible when breaking it loose a tooth could have broken and I didn't notice it.

Did you put the other other IAC valve back in?

I have the original in now. When the truck first gave me problems not starting I switched to the original IAC and have been using that one ever since.

This link hopefully will help. My guess is the timing, IAC, and such are fine. Go over the wiring from the crank position sensor all the way to the three coils.

You should be able to just remove the cam cover, and then rotate the engine by hand to check each tooth. My gut says it is fine but weird things occur during repairs.

https://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomam...de/cip1300.pdf