Just an idea for you. The clutch pedal torsion spring is a crummy design. I have all the original records for my truck and the PO took it back to the dealership about every 30k to complain about the squeaky clutch pedal. After I bought it I cut off the arm that engages the torsion spring and added an extension spring to compensate. Pedal force increased very, very slightly but now its a no-nonsense pedal. More than 40k miles after doing this mod and it still works perfectly.
Thanks yes I'm aware of that option, I've had several manual 1st gen Tacomas, so I'm used to dealing with it. I've gotten many miles out of the OG design/components, just need to stay on top of it.
How about a video of fixing the rear dome light switch, which is in the liftgate? Those often seem to die on our rigs due to dirt and age, and then (aside from not having a working rear dome light) you can get auto-locked out when you close the liftgate.
I recently took mine apart to clean it, and it would have been nice to have a good video showing the steps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim
I reckon we could do this. We would need somebody that's having an issue with theirs to do the video though.
Mine was having issues at the end of last year, and now the light doesn't come on at all with the tailgate open. I'd be game to make a video if you are!
I can either go down there, or (considering your comment about your garage and lighting) you can come up here. I have a 2-car oversized garage that we can use as we please for the video. Either way works for me.
I'm also about to embark on a complete suspension rebuild. Everything in both front wheel wells is getting replaced or refreshed, new shocks and springs (giving a 2 inch lift) all around, new bushings all the way from the front to the rear, and a panhard bar correction kit. I'm pretty sure you have all of that covered in various videos, but maybe there's something in there that could be helpful.
Mine was having issues at the end of last year, and now the light doesn't come on at all with the tailgate open. I'd be game to make a video if you are!
I can either go down there, or (considering your comment about your garage and lighting) you can come up here. I have a 2-car oversized garage that we can use as we please for the video. Either way works for me.
I'm also about to embark on a complete suspension rebuild. Everything in both front wheel wells is getting replaced or refreshed, new shocks and springs (giving a 2 inch lift) all around, new bushings all the way from the front to the rear, and a panhard bar correction kit. I'm pretty sure you have all of that covered in various videos, but maybe there's something in there that could be helpful.
That's a long way to drive for a video. If I had a reason to already be in your neck of the woods, I'd stop in and shoot a video with you. The dome light switch video would be cool to make, but would you really drive to San Jose for just that? We've already covered all the suspension work and bushing replacements with our videos so we don't have a need to film those jobs anymore.
I'm assuming with the hatch dome light issue, you've checked the bulb? On my 98, it recently went out not from the filament breaking inside the bulb but because one of the metal ends of the bulb became separated from the glass and wasn't getting a proper connection anymore. So, a simple bulb replacement fixed mine.
If you're sure it's the switch and you're willing to make the drive to San Jose, I'll shoot this video with you.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
That's a long way to drive for a video. If I had a reason to already be in your neck of the woods, I'd stop in and shoot a video with you. The dome light switch video would be cool to make, but would you really drive to San Jose for just that? We've already covered all the suspension work and bushing replacements with our videos so we don't have a need to film those jobs anymore.
I'm assuming with the hatch dome light issue, you've checked the bulb? On my 98, it recently went out not from the filament breaking inside the bulb but because one of the metal ends of the bulb became separated from the glass and wasn't getting a proper connection anymore. So, a simple bulb replacement fixed mine.
If you're sure it's the switch and you're willing to make the drive to San Jose, I'll shoot this video with you.
I don't mind making the drive, especially since there's some good off-roading in Truckee and things to do along the way. Plus, I just like to get out on the road sometimes.
I am going to respond about the bulb problem on here for informational purposes, but we can figure out our schedules via PM so as not to clutter the thread.
Yes, checking the bulb is the first thing I did. I even replaced it with a regular bulb as well as an LED (which is what is currently in there) and it still had intermittent problems that lacked a pattern. As of now, it doesn't work at all anymore. The bulb is still good, so at this point I figure it has to be the hatch. Does that sound right to everyone?
How about a video of fixing the rear dome light switch, which is in the liftgate? Those often seem to die on our rigs due to dirt and age, and then (aside from not having a working rear dome light) you can get auto-locked out when you close the liftgate.
I recently took mine apart to clean it, and it would have been nice to have a good video showing the steps.
Hey Leon, when you say you took yours apart to clean it, how exactly did you do that? I saw a write-up that said the rear latch mechanism is riveted together so they ground down the rivets so they could take off one side of the mechanism to get access to the switch inside.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
Hey Leon, when you say you took yours apart to clean it, how exactly did you do that? I saw a write-up that said the rear latch mechanism is riveted together so they ground down the rivets so they could take off one side of the mechanism to get access to the switch inside.
Hey Tim,
Yes indeed! Here is what's involved:
Remove the inner tailgate trim to get access to the cables and connectors, and undo them all:
Remove the three screws holding the latch and take the latch assembly to a workbench:
Lift up the rubber cover off the mounting surface of the latch assembly:
Now you can see the two rivets. Grind those suckers down:
Now separate the two halves, so you can see the internals:
Take out the switch assembly:
Now you need to figure what the issue is - some folks had bugs stuck in there, mine had nothing so obvious. So I disassembled it down to every piece part, cleaned off corrosion where I saw it, and lubed it all up with dielectric grease:
Reassemble everything (no need to worry about the rivets, the screws hold everything together):
Have a brew .
__________________
1997 4Runner Limited 4WD E-Locker ~200k | Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/75/16 | Pro Comp 69 16x8 | OME 2906 | B&M 70264
Addicted Offroad Front Bumper | Spiker Engineering High-Lift Hood Struts and Ultragauge Mount
Last edited by 4Runner4Leon; 08-14-2020 at 12:30 AM.
Should just get a rewound alternator. That's what I run and have never had any issues with it and it bolts right back up. It puts out 190 amps in relaxed mode whatever that means.
C.A.E. INC.
14710 Lull Street
Van Nuys, Ca.
91405
818-442-9884
__________________
2000 4runner SR5 with elocker 529 gears and 35" Yokohama Geolander MT
3" Lift 1" Body lift King shocks Method wheels
Hot Metal Fad custom front bumper
LED lights Whynter 62qt fridge Solar
Co2 tank and Viair onboard air system
Last edited by Toyotadirtdevil; 08-13-2020 at 11:12 PM.
Reason: More info
Remove the inner tailgate trim to get access to the cables and connectors, and undo them all:
Remove the three screws holding the latch and take the latch assembly to a workbench:
Lift up the rubber cover off the mounting surface of the latch assembly:
Now you can see the two rivets. Grind those suckers down:
Now separate the two halves, so you can see the internals:
Take out the switch assembly:
Now you need to figure what the issue is - some folks had bugs stuck in there, mine had nothing so obvious. So I disassembled it down to every piece part, cleaned off corrosion where I saw it, and lubed it all up with dielectric grease:
Reassemble everything (no need to worry about the rivets, the screws hold everything together):
Have a brew .
Thanks Leon. Super helpful!
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
I have a 2000 3.4 with a 5 speed manual transmission.
Trying to get more in to doing my own repairs and maintenance and would love to see a video on changing all the fluids in the manual transmission, transfer case and both differentials.
Although draining is fairly simple you could also get in to the tools for refilling, and more importantly the best gear oils to use for each application.
Love the vids, just did almost the entire front end including new lower control arms, shocks, springs, sway bar end links, bumps stops and diff support bushings. Pretty straight forward after watching all your videos.
Keep up the good work!
Gary
__________________
2000 SR5 4 Runner, 3.4, 5spd, 4WD
Shrockworks front & rear bumpers & sliders, Warn VR10,000S, Optima Yellow Top, Icon Uniball UCA
Toytec Ultimate Lift Kit (Soon to be replaced by Icon)
Method 305 NV Racing Wheels
I have a 2000 3.4 with a 5 speed manual transmission.
Trying to get more in to doing my own repairs and maintenance and would love to see a video on changing all the fluids in the manual transmission, transfer case and both differentials.
Although draining is fairly simple you could also get in to the tools for refilling, and more importantly the best gear oils to use for each application.
Love the vids, just did almost the entire front end including new lower control arms, shocks, springs, sway bar end links, bumps stops and diff support bushings. Pretty straight forward after watching all your videos.
Keep up the good work!
Gary
We have a video for replacing the fluids on our rigs. It was done on a automatic transmission model but renewing the fluid on a manual transmission is the same procedure as it is for a transfer case or differential. You get your rig on level ground. You remove the drain plug and drain out the old fluid. You replace the drain plug with a new washer. You fill it up with your gear oil of choice until the gear oil starts spilling out the bottom of the fill plug hole and then you put the fill plug back in with a new washer. Easy Peasy.
Agreed! Mine's already done though, so it's on you now! What better excuse to visit beautiful Nor Cal, where it's 107 today (I walked right past your old digs today ).
__________________
1997 4Runner Limited 4WD E-Locker ~200k | Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/75/16 | Pro Comp 69 16x8 | OME 2906 | B&M 70264
Addicted Offroad Front Bumper | Spiker Engineering High-Lift Hood Struts and Ultragauge Mount
I'll second the recommendation on Redline MT-90, good stuff, the hype is true. And get a cheap gear oil pump, makes the trans refill easier, esp the top off.